Ok, I have 2 questions on gearing, first, Im thinking about gearing my truck myself, Im mechanically inclined but have never done differential work, if I follow that gearing guide off of pirate4x4, do you think I will be succesful in regearing? second, Im probably going to get 33's for my 94 pu, but evntually im going to run 35's, can I still gear too 5.29 even though im running 33's? Your input will be much appreciated thanks.

-Kevin

 

http://www.gearinstalls.com/
have you seen this site?

 

Cool website so I am capable of doing this, any idea what tools I would need to do this?

 

tools are not going to be cheap

 

I'm going with 5.29's on mine with the 33's till those tires die.

 

I'd look into seeing how much in parts and tools it will cost you, compared to shopping around the other boards (pirate, snort, marlin, etc.) and finding already set up thirds ready to go.

 

If you have to ask, you should take it to pro. Especially with lower gears like 5.29 and even more especially 5.71's.

You will need dial indicators with magnetic bases and other precision measuring devices, the tools themselves are actually quite simple.

 

Use this gear ratio calculator to determine your RPM/Speed/tire size/gear ratio.

 

Tools are not expensive. I have all of them except the press. The most expensive tool is the press. However, a press can be avoided by heating and cooling parts in the oven/freezer.

I believe I got all my parts to do the gear instal myself for under 60 bucks from harbor freight.

The thing to remember is patience. This is something where it ABSOLUTELY has to be correct. If it is off even 2 thousanths of an inch, your gears will wear out. Get it perfect, and they'll run forever.

 

Thanks for youre guys help, how much does pros do it for? If its to much Im going to do it my self, Im sure I can find someone I know with a press.

 

About $200 per axle if you take the thirdmembers out of the truck.

 

hmm, I dont know I got to save a lot of mulla, budgets tight since im in high school with a minimum wage job.

 

I can sympathize, man. Poor college student with a job that only provides scholarship money which I never see...

The financial obstacle that is regearing is one I won't be able to get through for a year or two You may hear suggestions of finding 4.88's out of a 2nd Gen 4Runner...good luck - extremely rare listings on car-part or anywhere for that matter.

I saw a quote once that said 4x4 in caps is $x$. How true is that? I'm just wondering how the others in school manage to finance this hobby.

 

All the more reason to be ABSOLUTELY sure it's done right.

How much will you be out if the gears are 0.001" off and you blow them up in a few months?

 

a shop in denver colorado does them 100 per diff with the diff on a bench.

 

Save up and have Zuk do them for you.

 

Where can find this Zuk? How much does he do'em for?

 

The press the bearing Knife and the small beam TQ wrench are the most expensive tools. You will need to make a few items as well to get it done right. Its not rocket science and I much like you decided that I was going to do it myself because I wanted it Perfect not just "close enough" as most all purpose mechanics would do. I built a press because I wanted one a little different (air actuated hyd with a manual lever too) but you can buy a press for $100 from Harbor Freight that will work. I have set up about 7 or 8 diffs now including 4cyl 8", V6 8" (I even welded a V6 carrier for a fellow) and the 7.5 IFS ones as well and I have had zero problems with mine or the ones I set up for others. Zuks web site is very valuable but once you get the basics down and how to actually look at the pattern and know what needs to move to make it right the rest is just common sense and being very through at what you do (no short cuts). I would encourage you to go for it but stay away from Genuine gear for a while as the patterns generated are less than desirable and make set up a bit difficult especially for a first time. I would also highly recommend using solid collars over crush sleeves ($20 from trail-gear) as they are much stronger and easier to work with. I used the 5.29's from Trail-Gear for $129 on the last 2 diffs I set up (4cyl and V6) and they turned out to be Yukon part numbers on the V6 set and I cant remember what the 4cyl set was but it was a good name brand (precision gear comes to mind) part number and not a genuine number. Other than that have fun



Ohh almost forgot... Go for the 5.29's I ran them with my 33x10.5's for about a year till I SAS'd and went to 35's. I kinda miss all the torque that 33's and 5.29's gave me.