Couple newb questions
#1
Couple newb questions
Okay I got two questions I should probably get slapped for asking, but since they haven't perfected the e-slap, I'll ask via internet
.
1) Suppose you had an IFS truck with manual hubs, and you ran a spool in the front diff, how would the steering/drivability be affected on-road in 2HI w/ hubs unlocked?
2) What is high-steer? why is is it useful on the trail?
I know, I know, sorry. But I really do need answers. Thanks...
. 1) Suppose you had an IFS truck with manual hubs, and you ran a spool in the front diff, how would the steering/drivability be affected on-road in 2HI w/ hubs unlocked?
2) What is high-steer? why is is it useful on the trail?
I know, I know, sorry. But I really do need answers. Thanks...
#2
1) Absolutely zero problems driving on road with the hubs unlocked. You'd never notice it. However, you wouldn't be able to steer at all off road, except in very loose sand or mud. In dirt, forget about it. Also, you live in Ohio. Unless you never drive in the snow, you will be screwed for snow driving as well. It is about the worst way to lock the front of any truck, much less IFS.
2) High Steer is for SA trucks. It uses an IFS steering Box instead of a SA steering box. It is far stronger than stock SA steering, and is much less complicated. It puts the steering above the axle and out of the way of rocks and other trail obstacles.
2) High Steer is for SA trucks. It uses an IFS steering Box instead of a SA steering box. It is far stronger than stock SA steering, and is much less complicated. It puts the steering above the axle and out of the way of rocks and other trail obstacles.
#7
Well, in a perfect world, I'd have ARB e-lockers front/rear. But, since money is a serious factor here I'm looking for the cheapest good option. I'm also saving for new R&P gears, which is more important to me. I figure I might as well have gears and lockers done at the same, but don't wanna wait forever on the gears.
BTW, thanks for high-steer explanation, Ike.
BTW, thanks for high-steer explanation, Ike.
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#9
Well, in a perfect world, I'd have ARB e-lockers front/rear. But, since money is a serious factor here I'm looking for the cheapest good option. I'm also saving for new R&P gears, which is more important to me. I figure I might as well have gears and lockers done at the same, but don't wanna wait forever on the gears.
BTW, thanks for high-steer explanation, Ike.
BTW, thanks for high-steer explanation, Ike.
Really, just leave it open. Get a lunchbox or auto for the rear if you need traction, and can't afford something selectable.
#11
My buddy had an interesting idea. Not sure if anyone here is familiar with what a cutting brake is, but its the steering system used on bulldozers and Bobcats and stuff where you brake one wheel at a time to turn. Well, (ths would be offroad only) what if you used a system like that as kind of a manual limited slip setup? Applying brakes to one rear wheel that was slipping to force power to the other wheel? Just thought it was a cool idea and wanted some insight.
http://www.mooreparts.com/mm5/mercha...Code=SPECIALOR
http://www.mooreparts.com/mm5/mercha...Code=SPECIALOR
#13
Well, ozzie, from what I understand, they use this setup on dune buggies and baja beetles and stuff. That link I gave is from a VW performance mod site. You can get em for either disc or drum setup, dual or single handle. Basically, when you're spinning your one wheel in an open diff setup, you can apply the brakes to that wheel only. The opposite wheel now becomes the easiest wheel to spin, which is the wheel the open diff setup will now power. The only downside I see to this is that you wont ever be able to have both wheels moving at once like with a locker. But, in cases where one wheel is off the ground, it should prove to be just as effective. Apply brake to the wheel in the air, the wheel on the ground should start spinning.
#14
Yes those systems are out there.
They are absolutely NOT street legal. Drag cars use them for burn outs, to cut out the rear brakes, but hold the front.
You can still do it, but i'd make sure your admin crap with your county is all up to date before you do it, and don't let them see under the hood once you do.
It also won't work that great. It will be extremely difficult to use. Theory and practice are seldom the same.
They are absolutely NOT street legal. Drag cars use them for burn outs, to cut out the rear brakes, but hold the front.
You can still do it, but i'd make sure your admin crap with your county is all up to date before you do it, and don't let them see under the hood once you do.
It also won't work that great. It will be extremely difficult to use. Theory and practice are seldom the same.
Last edited by AxleIke; Jan 10, 2008 at 08:28 PM.
#15
Its a plains thing. I routinely run at 50+ in 4wd. Its all ranch roads, and you can see for miles in every direction, and no one on the road. More than enough time to slow down.
#16
I don't drive this truck every day. Nor would I ever use the system on pavement. As far as state law is concerned, I'd have to read up on the subject a little as I don't know much about it from a legal standpoint. But what are your thoughts on the setup for off-road traction purposes?
#17
Like i said, i don't think it will be as easy as a locker, nor a bunch cheaper.
However, if you got the skills, time and money, go for it. Post up on the results.
Seriously, you shouldn't let internet folk talk you out of a new idea. It could be revolutionary, or it could be a total dud. That is a risk you'll have to take.
However, if you got the skills, time and money, go for it. Post up on the results.
Seriously, you shouldn't let internet folk talk you out of a new idea. It could be revolutionary, or it could be a total dud. That is a risk you'll have to take.
#18
#20
Give it a shot. Don't cut anything too major, and if it doesn't work, just put it back, and you've lost 125 bucks. If it works, you've saved a bunch.


