here's the issue: when i push in the 4wd button, it engages, but the lights on the dash keep blinking. usually this happens for a few seconds, then after shifting to reverse->drive, or driving forward a bit they lights go solid. but not now.

however, if i push the center diff lock button, they lights do go solid and the center circle is illuminated to indicate the center is locked. if i push the center diff lock button again, to unlock it, they 4wd remains on as it should, but the dash lights go back to flashing. once i push the 4wd button to disengage, it goes back to 2wd just fine.

any ideas?

 

when the lights go back to flashing after turning the center off, do you try reversing?

it sounds almost normal if it works after you reverse..

what did it used to do?

 

tried reversing. the lights still flash. the awd/4wd seems to work, the lights just don't stay solid in awd mode.

what should happen is a few seconds after i engage 4wd the lights stay solid, indicating AWD. then when i push the center lock on, the center circle lights up too, indicating 4wd.

 

beats me.. im in a 92 4R.. way simpler.

glad your turning your into a real rig by the look fo your desc. tired of seeing pretty/newer SUVs that only go halfway rigish

 

This is somewhat of a repair topic, but it's highly specialized for off road tech, so I moved it here.

 

Try disengaging ECT if it's engaged. Then try to engage 4WD. I think there is a conflict btwn the two systems.

 

try doing it while moving forward in drive, then shifting to neutral for a second, then back to drive, while the wheels are still moving.

that works for my multi-mode button...

 

yeah, normally that would work, but not now - that's the problem.

i'm thinking maybe i'll take it in to the dealer for a diagnosis

 

I have done just about the most extensive 4wd repair process you could imagine on my '99. I'm almost positive you have a bad sensor somewhere. If you want help on the "do it yourself" approach, I'd be more than happy to give you some step by step advice.

If not it will probably run you about $70-$100ish for the stealer to look at it.


I'll keep an eye on this thread!

 

Charles,
Did you get the problem fixed or not yet?

 

not was fixing to take it in to the stealer tomorrow just for a diagnosis, i didn't figure that'd cost me anything. but yoda, i'm gonna pm you now about the DIY method.

 

Will the dealer cover something like this under the powertrain warranty (assuming you are out of the bumper to bumper)?

 

that's just what i was thinking, i shall inquire...

 

I pm'd this to you but I figured I'd post this on the thread so others may benefit from it.

Hey Charles,

Long story short, my problem ended up being a combination of a bad xfer case AND bad sensors. I spent hours with mechanics, paid the stealer to look at it and they gave me nothing. I got fed up and bought myself a FSM and a multimeter and spent hours learning the system inside and out and I finally tracked down the problem.

This is a copy of what I wrote to another member, I'm too lazy to retype . This should get you in the right direction.

The very first thing that you'll want to check are all the sensors/actuators (people call them different things). 99% of the problems in these setups are caused by one of these failing, or a bad vacuum line. So you wan to check these out first.

Off the top of my head there should be 6 sensors total. One on the front diff kind of in the back and underneath (easy to get to with skid plate off), two on the very back driver side of the xfer case on top of that little motor, then three total on the top of the tranny hump (2 drivers side, 1pass side). The only way to get to the ones on the top is to unbolt the xmember and lower the tranny as far is you can, then I cut and 11/16" wrench in half and used the round end to get them out. Its a tight fit.

To test them they are basically little metal buttons with two wires connected. When the button is pressed you should have a complete circuit, when not pressed, no circuit. I just took a multimeter to each one, clipped onto the pins, set to measure for impedance, then just pushed the buttons. The important thing here is just that you get a definite 0 impedance when not pressed, and you immediately get a solid reading when pressed. If its iffy at all I'd replace them.

I'd definitely start with the front diff, its the most likely to go bad. These things run $60+ I believe new, but a local salvage yard should have them for much cheaper, just make sure you test them first.

I'm assuming that the sytem has been working up till now, so make sure you keep the washers with the sensor as you pull them out. Sometimes they will stick to the case and you my accidently double stack them, or lose one, and this would throw off the travel distance of the button.

The only real way to check the vacuum lines out is with a hand pump, so if you can get your hands on one I'd check that out as well. Just basically put 20psi of vacuum on each of the two lines and see if it bleeds down. The lines come up on the fender next to the battery. There's a Blue and Brown solonoid, each has one line that goes down to the diff, those are what you want to check.


I hope this makes sense, feel free to ask if you need me to clarify anything.

Good Luck!

 

well looks like my penske warranty covers this, so on monday to the stealer it goes.

 

Charles,
Keep us updated, I'm curious to know what went wrong. Could be good info to know.

 

Awwwwww, all that typing for nothing



j/k Keep us posted, I'm also curious what it was.

 

Yoda helped me out on this one. I have the same issue with my 02. Push the button, lights flash, never go solid. Problem is, they wont go away. 4WD doesn't engage, and the lights are flashing. This is the second time it's happened. The first time I thought it had something to do with ECT, because it resolved shortly after I turned ECT off, now I'm not so sure.
I'm really interested in any solutions you may find Calrockx. Please keep us posted.

 

Was the dealer able to resolve anything? I'm ready to start tearing into mine.

 

the solution is still pending.

they're tried sensors, actuators, switches, looks like it might be the transfer case. i'll have some more information later this week.