My buddy is thinking about buying one. Has about 3000km on it, reason for the seller taking it out was because he put a different gearset in. wants $200 for it.
Good idea or bad idea and what are some things he should watch out for? Also, does anybody have a list of the parts that are supposed to come with the locker when buying new? Thanks.

 

why pay $200 for a used one when a brand new one is like $250...

 

My sentiments exactly.

I wonder why the guy is selling it? It shouldn't matter what gears are in it, since the Lock Right should fit. The only thing I can think of is if he is swapping out a 4 cylinder 3rd member for a V6 3rd member.

Personally, if I were installing a lunchbox locker, I would pay the extra money for a No Slip. I've had both, and the No Slip is about 80% smoother, 99% quieter, is stronger, and much less prone to wear.

In fact, I had to replace a rear Lock Right in the Ford 8.8" rear of a '94 Mazda Navajo (same as a same year 2 door Explorer) that wore out after 37,000 miles. I installed a No Slip, and when I totalled the vehicle the No Slip was still in great shape after 80,000 miles. It is still being used by the guy I sold it to in the rear of an F150.

Having had both in the rear of the same vehicle is a good test of how they are. Trust me, the No Slip is well worth the extra money, especially in the rear of a daily driver like mine was.

 

When your talking about the "No Slip" , do you mean the Powertrax No Slip? I've always wondered, is that a full locking unit like the lock-rite or is it a limited slip unit?

 

The No Slip is a locker just like the Lock Right. It basically is an improved Lock Right.

The locking teeth are the same. But the No Slip has extra parts and springs that make a big difference.

The extra springs help dampen the extra backlash (play) that a locker needs to operate properly. The other extra parts allow the No Slip coupler halves to separate while differentiating, instead of the coupler halves rubbing together while ratcheting while differentiating like the Lock Right does.

The coupler halves separating, along with the extra springs, is why the No Slip is so much quieter and smoother. The coupler halves separating is also why the No Slip is less prone to wear.

 

dont pay more than $175.

look for chipped or broken teeth or broken pins. also look at the pin holes, any abnormal wallowing and it should be avoided or offer him $50

 

Not worth it. New Aussies are $230 and people are really saying good things about those and are considered superior to the lockright.

Sounds like the seller doesn't want to lose money on his purchase, I wouldn't give him more than $150. Because I'd be willing to pay for the new Aussie since they are supposed to be better.

FWIW I've put 100k miles on a lockright in one of my trucks.

 

You've got a 22RE, so get an Aussie Locker. They're about the same price as a Lockright, but better. I just about never hear mine and it only acts weird about one in ten corners and only then with some provocation. I've had it a week and thus can't comment about the longevity, but so far its very smooth (not even broken in yet).

 

When my Lock Rights weren't broken in, they were also quieter and smoother than when they were broken in.

I have heard that the Aussie is better, but still, it will take some time before it is broken in and shows it's worst behavior.

Regardless, the Aussie operates the same way as the Lock Right. However, the No Slip is still smoother and quieter.

 

Buying a used lock-right for that price is like buying used underwear...it just isn't right and it will f*** up your rear end