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another cv d shaft question

Old Feb 10, 2009 | 10:50 AM
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another cv d shaft question

i put a cv on my rear shaft when i did the leaf swap.it gave me the little extra length i needed and now i have a cv for the extra height.the joints were ok but the ball was not in the best of shape.now it is woobling around and i can tell the center ball is shot.i can get a doner cv with a good centering ball for cheap but this is the part that is weded to the shaft.and im proly gonna have to swap out the part of the assembly that has the pin on it.can i remove the centering ball from the new cv to put in the one ive already welded onto the shaft?parts stores dont seem to have this centering ball assembly and if i need the part with the pin this could get quite expensive at a dshft shop.i cant lay this up and send the shaft to the west coast either.somehow ive gotta finish this in 1 or 2 days.
thanks for any input.
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 11:50 AM
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What kind of vehicle and driveshaft are we talking about here?

Your terminology does not match how a Toyota CV (double cardan) driveshaft looks...

Pix?
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 11:53 AM
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I know this is in a 40-55 forum, but it should help you, especially the rockford link.


http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series...buildable.html
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Old Feb 11, 2009 | 05:36 AM
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sorry for my horrible description! its a rear 94 runner shaft that i cut the end off and put a cv joint from a 90s????? front ifs shaft.
thanks hypoid! thats exactly what i was looking for!
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Old Feb 11, 2009 | 10:36 AM
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parts are pretty expensive.im gonna go to the junkyard and pull one in good condition then take it apart.
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Old Feb 11, 2009 | 10:59 AM
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You may have other things going on also. A cv joint at t-case requires that the diff pinion to be pointed at the t-case out put, for me this required cutting and rewelding spring perches but I'm running duals which make the angle more extreme. You may be able to get away with shims. Marlin recommends you place the pinion 1* or 2* below t-case output to compensate for the normal rotation when under load. Think I put mine about 1.5*. If you decide to shim it 4* is about the max you want for a streetible rig and I'd weld one side to the perch. But I wheel and like the extra peace of mind.

An IFS front shaft has the least amount of flex at the cv joint than any other front d-shaft. I know the '85 has the good flex and larger bolt holes in the flange like the IFS does but forget which year is the smaller bolts. If running an IFS shaft you need to open the joint http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/cvmod/ describes it.

hope this helps.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...line-101.shtml may help you too.
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Old Feb 11, 2009 | 12:19 PM
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the rear was out and rotated up.ething is good but the ball is shot.i relieved the front like the 4x4wire procedure and since the rear will be apart ill guess ill do this one too.im guessing i cant take the ball seat from the new one if its good and put it into the old one without screwing it up?
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 05:46 AM
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i have a 8 32 screw thru the ball and ive made a slide hammer arrangement but i still cant get the ball to budge!im gonna try a little heat on the surrounding yoke and try hammering it out.i thought the ball would come out easy and the race would be difficult but im pulling hard on the ball with this slide hammer and its hitting solid and not budging at all.
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Old Feb 19, 2009 | 12:21 PM
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i took the seal out then welded a rod to the ball and pulled it out.2morrow ill deal with trying to get the race out.i guess ill try welding inside the race to try and shrink it.what a pain this has been!
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