Add Idler Arm Brace to purchase when buying BJ Spacers
05-15-2006, 11:02 PM
#1
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Add Idler Arm Brace to purchase when buying BJ Spacers
If you plan on doing a BJ Spacer lift, i recomend that you either get one, or make one.
I ran an aftermarket idler arm, with a shorter, thicker rod, and it worked fine for a while, but destroyed itself after a year and a half.
Got a stock toyota one, and after one trip, it has been bent up into the frame.
The steering on these trucks can handle the addition of the spacers if you relax back to stock height, with stock tires, but if you add big tires to that, or keep the bars where they were, it won't work for long.
I am making a brace for 10 bucks, they cost around 60 or so elsewhere. If this doesn't work, i will begin collecting parts.
I ran an aftermarket idler arm, with a shorter, thicker rod, and it worked fine for a while, but destroyed itself after a year and a half.
Got a stock toyota one, and after one trip, it has been bent up into the frame.
The steering on these trucks can handle the addition of the spacers if you relax back to stock height, with stock tires, but if you add big tires to that, or keep the bars where they were, it won't work for long.
I am making a brace for 10 bucks, they cost around 60 or so elsewhere. If this doesn't work, i will begin collecting parts.
05-19-2006, 02:43 AM
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FYI: Downey's IFS "Idler Arm Gusset" is designed to fit with a OEM idler arm.
Part numbers:
45486 fits '86-'92 $49.95
45493 fits '93-'95 $49.95
*Idler arm purpose: The idler arm assists the pitman arm by supporting the steering linkage as it moves in the direction controlled by the steering gear.
Now would you want that part to bend on the trail?? Of coarse not!
*Solution:
Buy a brace/gusset before you bend the crap out of your *steering*!
*Maintenance Tips/Suggestions: The idler arm should be lubricated at every oil change (when was the last time you did that!?). LOL
The idler arm, along with other suspension components, should be inspected annually along with a complete wheel alignment. The most common vehicle symptoms associated with a worn idler arm include wandering, tire edge wear, and loose or erratic steering.
Part numbers:
45486 fits '86-'92 $49.95
45493 fits '93-'95 $49.95
*Idler arm purpose: The idler arm assists the pitman arm by supporting the steering linkage as it moves in the direction controlled by the steering gear.
Now would you want that part to bend on the trail?? Of coarse not!
*Solution:
Buy a brace/gusset before you bend the crap out of your *steering*!
*Maintenance Tips/Suggestions: The idler arm should be lubricated at every oil change (when was the last time you did that!?). LOL
The idler arm, along with other suspension components, should be inspected annually along with a complete wheel alignment. The most common vehicle symptoms associated with a worn idler arm include wandering, tire edge wear, and loose or erratic steering.
03-22-2010, 08:28 PM
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If you plan on doing a BJ Spacer lift, i recomend that you either get one, or make one.
I ran an aftermarket idler arm, with a shorter, thicker rod, and it worked fine for a while, but destroyed itself after a year and a half.
Got a stock toyota one, and after one trip, it has been bent up into the frame.
The steering on these trucks can handle the addition of the spacers if you relax back to stock height, with stock tires, but if you add big tires to that, or keep the bars where they were, it won't work for long.
I am making a brace for 10 bucks, they cost around 60 or so elsewhere. If this doesn't work, i will begin collecting parts.
I ran an aftermarket idler arm, with a shorter, thicker rod, and it worked fine for a while, but destroyed itself after a year and a half.
Got a stock toyota one, and after one trip, it has been bent up into the frame.
The steering on these trucks can handle the addition of the spacers if you relax back to stock height, with stock tires, but if you add big tires to that, or keep the bars where they were, it won't work for long.
I am making a brace for 10 bucks, they cost around 60 or so elsewhere. If this doesn't work, i will begin collecting parts.
03-22-2010, 08:40 PM
#4
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I have the downey one. I got it for free after this post attracted the attention of another, generous member, who donated it to me.
I'm still running it. It isn't quite enough, and I still bend idler arms, but not as much.
I've also relaxed all of my lift out of my truck.
I'm still running it. It isn't quite enough, and I still bend idler arms, but not as much.
I've also relaxed all of my lift out of my truck.
03-22-2010, 08:50 PM
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If you were to purchase tires again, would you go with the 35's and the broken IFS parts or 33's??
There's too much IFS bashing out there and pro-SAS to get a true opinion.
There's too much IFS bashing out there and pro-SAS to get a true opinion.
03-23-2010, 08:26 AM
#6
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Well, so far, I haven't had any broken IFS parts with the 35's, mostly because I haven't had them long enough to actually wheel yet 
I've busted all my parts on 33's. These are a couple examples where IFS parts and even 33x9.5's aren't guarantee'd to hold up:
I've busted all my parts on 33's. These are a couple examples where IFS parts and even 33x9.5's aren't guarantee'd to hold up:
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03-23-2010, 01:16 PM
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Yup. Built with my own two hands (and a crap load o other tools )
Didn't like anything else on the market. It will be getting a winch soon too.
)Didn't like anything else on the market. It will be getting a winch soon too.
03-23-2010, 02:01 PM
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Are you running the stock idler arm with the Downey brace? or have you replaced it with an aftermarket one from Checker/Auto Zone/Napa? Because I was thinking of getting the brace from NWOR and replacing my Idler arm with one from Checker so that it has the lifetime warranty. I will never have to buy another one . Just have to find one that will fit with the brace.
Do you have more pictures of that front bumper?
. Just have to find one that will fit with the brace.Do you have more pictures of that front bumper?
03-23-2010, 02:46 PM
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I ran a replacement one from NAPA, and the MOOG.
The moog lasted the longest, but doesn't fit the brace. The NAPA one crapped out instantly, without even offroading.
I've found that you can pick up idlers for free from people doing SAS swaps, and most of the time, with the downey brace, the bushings inside are what go out.
The bushings are about $7 from Toyota.
Here is a poser parking lot shot of the front bumper:
The moog lasted the longest, but doesn't fit the brace. The NAPA one crapped out instantly, without even offroading.
I've found that you can pick up idlers for free from people doing SAS swaps, and most of the time, with the downey brace, the bushings inside are what go out.
The bushings are about $7 from Toyota.
Here is a poser parking lot shot of the front bumper:
03-23-2010, 03:08 PM
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Is the Moog idler arm the Heavy Duty one that Napa claims they have. Last time I bought one they had the regular one for about 50 bucks and the HD one for $93. Luckily I have only broken one but i mostly drive on roads right now and dont bash my truck too hard.
03-23-2010, 04:50 PM
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Stock style:
03-23-2010, 09:34 PM
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Yup! Thats it, though I'm not sure if that may be a NAPA brand, but I'm sure they are about the same. Mine just happened to have "MOOG" stamped in it.
Too true! Though much of that was in the sliders, which I can't thank you enough for spending your time on. Allowed me to actually wheel last summer vs spending all that time fabbing! And, they are beefy as all get out!
I don't have any of the brace, but it is the downey one. I'm sure you can find it with a google search.
03-24-2010, 10:35 PM
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03-28-2010, 03:19 PM
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Ive been running the stock idler and downey brace for a few years now. Have to constantly replace bushings and it never stays tight.
So I bought a Mcquay Norris idler and am going to pick up the SDORI brass bushings that fit it. Total combo will cost me around $90. Im thinking this is the best setup without re-designing the arm itself. Like tube or the TC idler.
So I bought a Mcquay Norris idler and am going to pick up the SDORI brass bushings that fit it. Total combo will cost me around $90. Im thinking this is the best setup without re-designing the arm itself. Like tube or the TC idler.
