Add Idler Arm Brace to purchase when buying BJ Spacers
#41
Registered User
Excuse my 4 month thread bump, but does anybody know where I can get a idler arm brace anymore? I already have the bronze bushings in mine but I really wanted the Downey brace to go with it. Do you still have yours Axleike? I'd gladly buy it.....
As for TRE's, I just wrapped this project up few months back.
As for TRE's, I just wrapped this project up few months back.
#45
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Location: Farmington, Utah
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Also on this site: http://www.sdori.com/index.html they mention that they "started development of their idler arm brace" on 02/09, It seems like the site doesn't get updated very often though. I think it would be possible that they could have something ready by now. But that is just a guess. sdori usually makes some pretty good quality stuff, let me know what you find out if you decide to contact them, or northwestoffroad. I have also been meaning to order a brace, just haven't gotten around to it yet.
#47
Registered User
Just for the record, I did call NWOR and they do have some idler arm braces in stock for $74.95. I am going to hold out for a couple days & see if I can turn up a used one but if I can't find one by this Friday then I'll order one from NWOR. Also worth noting that NWOR ONLY takes credit cards #'s over the phone, no pay-pal or online ordering.
Anybody who has one for sale please PM me!
Anybody who has one for sale please PM me!
Last edited by yotarob2005; 10-27-2010 at 11:38 AM.
#48
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Ok, i decided to call northwestoffroad myself, the idler arm is on this site: http://www.northwestoffroad.com/part...omponents.html
part #: N76810
cost: $74.95, and yes they are in stock.
I also emailed sdori to figure out the status of their idler arm braces, I'll give you guys an update when they email me back.
part #: N76810
cost: $74.95, and yes they are in stock.
I also emailed sdori to figure out the status of their idler arm braces, I'll give you guys an update when they email me back.
#49
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https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...d-ends-218711/
#50
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Nice job on the heims.
I didn't want to deal with potential slop, so I went with the FJ-80 rod ends, which also happen to fit the knuckle ends and center link, so no drilling or re-tapering was required.
I'll be interested to see how your heims do on a DD. Everyone on SAS rigs seems to think they loosen up, but that could just be internet hype and/or larger tires that wear them out.
I'll look around to see if I still have my brace. I have to sort through my scrap steel bin.
I didn't want to deal with potential slop, so I went with the FJ-80 rod ends, which also happen to fit the knuckle ends and center link, so no drilling or re-tapering was required.
I'll be interested to see how your heims do on a DD. Everyone on SAS rigs seems to think they loosen up, but that could just be internet hype and/or larger tires that wear them out.
I'll look around to see if I still have my brace. I have to sort through my scrap steel bin.
#51
Registered User
Nice job on the heims.
I'll be interested to see how your heims do on a DD. Everyone on SAS rigs seems to think they loosen up, but that could just be internet hype and/or larger tires that wear them out.
I'll look around to see if I still have my brace. I have to sort through my scrap steel bin.
I'll be interested to see how your heims do on a DD. Everyone on SAS rigs seems to think they loosen up, but that could just be internet hype and/or larger tires that wear them out.
I'll look around to see if I still have my brace. I have to sort through my scrap steel bin.
Let me know if you can find that idler brace, I will put it to good use.
#52
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Thread Starter
Thanks, This truck is not even street legal at the moment, more less a DD. When you say loosen up do you mean the heim itself or the adjuster sleeves? I put a small tack weld between the adjuster sleeve & lock nut.
Let me know if you can find that idler brace, I will put it to good use.
Let me know if you can find that idler brace, I will put it to good use.
I gotta check on the idler brace.
#53
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Hey, so I never got an email back verifying if 4wheelparts is selling that brace or not. So, sorry if any one has been waiting for the past month and a half for an answer haha.
I was about to order an idler arm for my truck though, and according to: http://www.sdori.com/SDORI_Theory_Of_Operation.html the brass bushings are made for the "Mcquay Norris FA5040" idler arm. But according to an auto parts store, that arm does not fit my 1990 pickup... It says that it fits the 92-95 pickups. Is there a difference in the arm between the 89-91 and the 92-95 pickups? I just wanted to make sure that this is going to fit before I order it. Any answers would be greatly appreciated!
I was about to order an idler arm for my truck though, and according to: http://www.sdori.com/SDORI_Theory_Of_Operation.html the brass bushings are made for the "Mcquay Norris FA5040" idler arm. But according to an auto parts store, that arm does not fit my 1990 pickup... It says that it fits the 92-95 pickups. Is there a difference in the arm between the 89-91 and the 92-95 pickups? I just wanted to make sure that this is going to fit before I order it. Any answers would be greatly appreciated!
Last edited by jwenz723; 12-13-2010 at 04:11 PM.
#55
Registered User
The brass bushings should hold up better than the plastic ones but they wont prevent you from bending the shaft. Northwest Offroad used to make an Idler Arm Brace but I couldn't find it on their website. Here is the link http://www.northwestoffroad.com/part..._steering.html Try calling them durring their limited business hours they may still have them?
Blazeland is developing an upgraded unit as we speak. I don't know when it will be ready its still in the design phase.
You can also fabricate your own brace like I did. The plastic bushing will still wear out but the shaft when braced will resist bending. Maybe get the brass bushings and build my cheapo brace. Its built from (2) sections of 2" by 2" 1/4" thick angles cut to 2" length and a peice of 1.5" x 1/4" flat stock cut to length. Drill out one angle to accept 1/2" hardware and the other to fit over the shaft under the nut. When its all bolted in place weld the angle to the arm and the flat to the angle. Be careful welding the angle to the idler arm as the rod end will get hot and will melt the internals.
Blazeland is developing an upgraded unit as we speak. I don't know when it will be ready its still in the design phase.
You can also fabricate your own brace like I did. The plastic bushing will still wear out but the shaft when braced will resist bending. Maybe get the brass bushings and build my cheapo brace. Its built from (2) sections of 2" by 2" 1/4" thick angles cut to 2" length and a peice of 1.5" x 1/4" flat stock cut to length. Drill out one angle to accept 1/2" hardware and the other to fit over the shaft under the nut. When its all bolted in place weld the angle to the arm and the flat to the angle. Be careful welding the angle to the idler arm as the rod end will get hot and will melt the internals.
#57
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Ugh... So I ordered the brass bushings from SDORI, and the mcquay norris idler arm because that is the arm the bushings are made for. I received both of them today, and noticed a 555 on the arm.... The bushings are not going to fit right?
You can see the 555 in the pic, along with the box that says FA5040
You can see the 555 in the pic, along with the box that says FA5040
#58
Registered User
Call SDORI thay would be the ones to answer this question for sure. Anyway, I've seen the 555 stamp on some of the idler arms I gone through over the years! I am not sure it is the model number? It may just be the casting number for the arm piece. If it was a sealed box, and the box says its a FA5040, it probably is!
#59
Registered User
does this help?
So a little bump if anyone is still interested.
After pounding the brass bushings into my 555 brand idler arm, I noticed that there was loads of play in the idler shaft/bushing interface.
Turns out the 555 brand idler and the McQuay norris FA5040 are different.
I ordered the mcquay norris and got the 555, since in every picture I saw the mcquay arm had the same picture as the 555 brand I figured they were 1 and the same.
NOT!
Thankfully I was able to remove the bushings and put the 555 arm back together to be sold."
stay tuned for when I actually get the right arm!
After pounding the brass bushings into my 555 brand idler arm, I noticed that there was loads of play in the idler shaft/bushing interface.
Turns out the 555 brand idler and the McQuay norris FA5040 are different.
I ordered the mcquay norris and got the 555, since in every picture I saw the mcquay arm had the same picture as the 555 brand I figured they were 1 and the same.
NOT!
Thankfully I was able to remove the bushings and put the 555 arm back together to be sold."
stay tuned for when I actually get the right arm!