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Old Mar 1, 2004 | 12:42 PM
  #1  
fpkelly's Avatar
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From: MD
54MM Socket

Anyone have one in the St Louis area? Im trying to take apart the front of the IFS and the channel locks wont get the one side off and I don't have time to order one.
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Old Mar 1, 2004 | 12:46 PM
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You might not have to order it, I got mine at monument auto if you have those around. Also, I hear the standard 2 1/8" socket works too so a hardware store or sears might have it.
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Old Mar 1, 2004 | 04:02 PM
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From: Columbia, MO
yep, a 2-1/8 socket fits perfectly. sears has them for ~$23

btw: dont forget a 3/4" drive adapter
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Old Mar 1, 2004 | 04:07 PM
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Might save a few bucks by checking out tool traders or pawn shops for a used forged 2 1/8 inch socket for a 3/4 inch drive.
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Old Mar 2, 2004 | 08:01 AM
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try a screw driver or punch. hit it lightly at an angle on every side of the nut, usually works for me
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Old Mar 2, 2004 | 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Hyperlite
try a screw driver or punch. hit it lightly at an angle on every side of the nut, usually works for me
Sure he can take them off that way but how the heck is he supposed to torque them down properly when reinstalling? The 54mm/2&1/8" socket is just one of tools you need to have.
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Old Mar 2, 2004 | 10:13 AM
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From: Mooresville (Lake Norman) NC
the nut lines up with something inside that is bent over the nut to keep it from vibrating out. You can get it tight with my method, probibly not the best.
Not sure about torque, but the nut needs to line up with the washer behind it so you can bend the washer over it, if you torque it it might not line up......

This method is for solid axle (birfields), might be different for IFS
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Old Mar 2, 2004 | 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Hyperlite
the nut lines up with something inside that is bent over the nut to keep it from vibrating out. You can get it tight with my method, probibly not the best.
Not sure about torque, but the nut needs to line up with the washer behind it so you can bend the washer over it, if you torque it it might not line up......
It's called a star washer, and you don't line up the nut to it. You torque the first nut properly to set the preload, install the star washer and torque the second nut properly. Then you fold over the appropriate ears of the star washer to hold the nuts from coming loose. If the preload is not set properly you will destroy the bearings, and it is not possible to set the preload with the hammer and chisel method.

Originally Posted by Hyperlite
This method is for solid axle (birfields), might be different for IFS
They are identical.
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Old Mar 2, 2004 | 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Hyperlite
the nut lines up with something inside that is bent over the nut to keep it from vibrating out. You can get it tight with my method, probibly not the best.
Not sure about torque, but the nut needs to line up with the washer behind it so you can bend the washer over it, if you torque it it might not line up......

This method is for solid axle (birfields), might be different for IFS
I just replaced my bearings, seals, and rotors on my IFS truck. All I used was the old fashioned flatblade screwdriver and a hammer for taking it apart and installing them. Before you start dissasembly make a reference mark with a marker on the top of the inner nut and also the washer, this will give you an idea as to where the nut was and where the washer tabs were when you put it back together. When tightening the nut, tap it into place until it is dead tight and then back it off to where your mark is pointing up (approx 1/2 to 3/4 turn). You can check the play and free wheel rotation with a spring guage just like you are supposed to do. Yes the socket makes it easy, but if you can't find one this method is tried and true ask any mechanic.
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Old Mar 2, 2004 | 11:04 AM
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I think I'll go with what the engineers say to do. What's that old saying...always use the right tool for the job...
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Old Mar 2, 2004 | 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by PirateFins
You can check the play and free wheel rotation with a spring guage just like you are supposed to do.
You should be verifying the preload by doing this regardless of how you tighten then.
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Old Mar 2, 2004 | 11:13 AM
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From: Smithsburg, Maryland
Originally Posted by Shane
It's called a star washer, and you don't line up the nut to it. You torque the first nut properly to set the preload, install the star washer and torque the second nut properly. Then you fold over the appropriate ears of the star washer to hold the nuts from coming loose. If the preload is not set properly you will destroy the bearings, and it is not possible to set the preload with the hammer and chisel method.

They are identical.
Yes it is possible to set the pre load with that method it just takes longer.
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Old Mar 3, 2004 | 11:29 AM
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From: Race City USA (Mooresville, NC - LKN)
hammer and screwdriver here
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Old Mar 3, 2004 | 12:06 PM
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From: Solano Co, CA Originally a North Idaho Hick
Originally Posted by customcruiser
hammer and screwdriver here
Ditto worked fine in the hands of a very experienced mechanic (dad)
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Old Dec 4, 2004 | 10:42 PM
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what is t100 front hub nut torque specks and procedure

does anyone know the front hub nut torque specks and procedure for 96 t-100 4wd IFS?

This seems too be along the lines of this thread but I started a new thread see more details of my question at:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...839#post464839
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Old Dec 5, 2004 | 09:04 AM
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hammer and screwdriver here too, been doing it like that for three generations now...
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Old Dec 10, 2004 | 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Shane
You should be verifying the preload by doing this (measuring it with a spring gauge) regardless of how you tighten then.
Does anybody even use the spring gauge for checking the preload?

If so, where did you but it?

I have asked a couple Toyota mechanics where I could buy a sping gauge and they told me they don't use one or if they did use one once or twice, after doing it a couple times they can do by feel now and don't need it.

So, every time I have repacked my front wheel bearings or changed the rotor or something I just follow the instructions in the shop manual for setting the preload, but I have never verified it with a spring gauge .
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Old Dec 15, 2004 | 09:57 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by fpkelly
Anyone have one in the St Louis area? Im trying to take apart the front of the IFS and the channel locks wont get the one side off and I don't have time to order one.
What exactly on the IFS requires a 54mm socket? Please fill me in. Thanks.
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Old Dec 15, 2004 | 10:05 AM
  #19  
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The only IFS part they are for is...
The nut after the lock out the holds the wheel bearings. This is only 86-95 IFS.

Since the person who asked appeared to have a Taco...
Taco's have a 35mm one. IIRC

Last edited by Flygtenstein; Dec 15, 2004 at 12:48 PM.
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Old Dec 15, 2004 | 10:56 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Flygtenstein
The nut after the lock out the holds the wheel bearings. This is only 86-95 IFS.
NOT just IFS, this also includes all solid axle trucks and 4runners! Here's a pic
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