I'm lookin at gettin a 3" Rough Country Body lift for my '88 pickup and puttin 33's on it. i currently have 29's and i looked at what the difference would be from what my spedometer shows and how fast i am actually goin. it is about a 7-8mph difference. I really don't want to get a ticket for speedin and not knowin it. Is there any way to solve this without just havin to remember the difference?? I have no idea what my gear ratio is.

 

with my 35's my speedo reads 50 I am really doing 45 so I just remember that I am 5 under what is shown. If theres a radar post around a school or something see what is say's and look at your speedo and just remember to keep that in mind. Just a thought

 

Are you running stock gears? I would recommend 488s with 33s to get you back into the stock range. Your speedo will read right then too

 

Well, it will be back to stock ... which isn't necessarily right.

 

I'm kind of a newbie to this thing when you talk about regearing are you talkin about the spedometer gears or what?

 

That would be a different gear ratio in the axles (rear and front):
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_TechI...tml#DiffRatios

 

are you really going with a 3in. body lift ??

 

why wouldn't i

 

I heard from somewhere that there is something you attach to your spedometer cable that will take into account the different size tires, has anyone else heard of this. Also is getting different spedometer gears an option if so does anyone know where to find them

 

I would not bother correcting the speedometer. You need to regear to get some lost performance back.

BTW, 33/29 will give you a 14% speedometer error along with %14 reduction in acceleration and hill climbing ability. Expect to essentially have to downshift one gear lower than you do now to climb hills. 65MPH indicated will be 74.1MPH. Keep in mind stock speedos are often off either way by 1 or 2 MPH. Oddly, mine was dead on with I had stock tires.


Frank

 

what if i got only a 2" lift and 31's would i still need to regear?

 

No, you would probably be Ok with 31's. They will fit stock too so you can add suspension lift stuff like ball joint spacers to increase flex and lift 1.5-2" but you won't need the body lift.

Just for future reference, 33X10.5's will fit stock. It's the extra width of a 12.5 that requires the lift.

I ran over geared with the V6 and did not care for it so I would not recommend it with the 4 cylinder. Stick wth 31's and save up for gears/lockers. Then do the tires/gears at the same time. The truck will appreciate it (clutch especially).

Frank

 

hey thanks i really appreciate it

 

my buddy has a 3" rough country suspension lift with 33x12.5 on 15x10 rims on his 85' 4runner. 22re and 5 speed. Could be re-geared, but its not too bad, sluggish on hills, but around town it does just fine.

i had a 94' runner with 33x12.5's with the 3.0 v6 and an auto and did fine too... re gearing definately makes it nicer to drive but not absolutely necessary.

But the 22re and 5speed works great with 31's, I would personally regear any bigger than that.

 

The reason he asked if you were really doing a 3" body lift is because body lifts are generally frowned upon. They put extra stress on the body and frame. They are basically veiwed as the easy "band-aid" fix to gain lift.

 

Ummm ... no for IFS rigs, they are one of the BEST ways to get lift. The reason is that it is one of the only ways to actually fit bigger tires without limiting the critical uptravel.

Body mounts are body mounts, GOOD bodylifts don't add any stress to the body or frame, and may even be better than stock.

 

Yep. Going with a mild (under 3") body lift is the cheapest, best way to gain some extra clearance for larger tires. Good quality body lifts are stronger than the stock body mounts a lot of the time, and don't post any danger at all. It's when people do things like using hockey pucks or wood or other crap to lift the body that things go wrong. I've seen cheapo home made body lifts break a few times, but I have never seen a good quality one break. You go too big on the body lift (or suspension lift, for that matter) and you will have to start upgrading brake lines and stuff, though, so keeping it mild is the simplest option.

Having a body lift makes it a little easier to get to the transmission and transfer case, too. I helped a buddy of mine replace the clutch in his 4runner, and the 3 inch body lift he had made things a piece of cake getting to the bolts on the top of the bellhousing.

 

3" is a pretty big body lift, but the olnly negative effects are cosmetic,
and that can be corrected by installing gap guards.
You never specified what tire width you plan on running, but if you want
to run a 12.50 wide tire, you'll need to buy at least 8" wide wheels.

 

hey i have a t100 2wd and i was wondering if anyone knew where i can get a suspension lift for it

 

Here is an option for the front:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ntSpacer.shtml

and in the rear:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...es.shtml#FAQ14