colsoncj

I'm putting a procomp 4" lift on my 1st gen 4Runner and regearing it for tires. I'm plannin on using 4.88's, because my original intention was 33's. I got a couple questions though...

Can 35's fit underneath that lift without rub, or very minimal rub? If so, should I stick with the 4.88's or go to something else?

I've been lookin at tires and am having a hard time deciding what to go with. I do drive a fair amount on the highway, so I'm limitied to an A/T or a M/T. I spend a lot of my four-wheeling time in some deep mud/water, so I would prefer the mud terrains over the all terrains. Recently, the two I've got my eyes on are the BFG M/T and the Goodyear MT/R. I'd like something with some good sidewall protection, but I don't need a $300 bullet-proof tire. What are your suggestions and opinions. Any info on treadlife, your driving style, and off-raod performance on these tires would be great. Also, any other recommendations on tires, and any recommendations on places to get a tire and wheel combo (preferably online) would be immensly appreciated. Thanks!

crawler#976

When I bought my '87, it had a 2" t'bar lift and a 3" body lift w/ blocks in the back. It had bald 35" M/T's on the front and new ones on the rear- I thought that's odd, why just two new tires? I found out when I bought new front's- they rubbed badly when stuffed (if you call uptravel on an IFS stuffed ) and turned to lock.

After 3 years of hard wheelin', I really wish I'd started w/ 4.88's and 35's. I know it goes against all the advise you'll read or hear. 5.29's get you much closer to stock as far as power goes, in fact I have about an 8% under drive w/ new 35" MT/R's.

My reason for 4.88's is one of strength. They have a 9 tooth pinion vs. a 7 tooth pinion. I've now trashed 3 sets of rear 5.29's w/ a spool and one set of front 5.29's w/ a Detroit. Currently, I've got 2 of 7 teeth busted on my front diff.........and a brand new rear third. Again........

I'd gladly live w/ a little less highway performance for a little extra strength in the R?P department.

I really like my MT/R's for our western wheelin'- mostly dry conditions. I've also been pleased w/ great traction in the snow. So far, I rate them better than a BFG M/T in all conditions, including the limited mud wheelin' we do. I hear the eastern guy's don't like'm in heavy mud tho.

jimbo74

35s will rub with only a 4" lift... especially if going with a more agressive tire.... for example, i had bfg mud kms on the front... they rubbed more than the old style bfg muds i have on their now, due to the fact that the kms had the sidebiter lug things and the old ones didnt

kyle_22r

4.88s have 9 teeth? damn, my 4.38s have 8 on the pinion

guess when i regear, it'll even be a strength upgrade from stock

colsoncj

Well it sounds like I should go with the MT/R's. My little bro has them on his truck, and he loves them. I played with his truck in some mud and they did great.

It also sounds like if I'd like to keep my tires, stay with 33's. And definately stay with 4.88's. Thanks for all the advice!

crawler#976

my bad, 4.88 have an 8 tooth pinion.........

Precision Gear list's as follows:

Ratio/Teeth
4.11 37-9
4.56 41-9
4.88 39-8
5.29 37-7
5.71 40-7

wifesaysimadumbass

i have 4.88s with 33s and i think that is probably the best set up. 5.29s break like the others have said. plus on the highway unless you are running 37s your rpms at 65 mph will be more than you like. i have a top comfortable cruising speed of about 70- 75. 80 is pushing the rpms higher than i want them. the 4.88s are a great mod but if you are going to regear than you might as well add a locker. you'll have it apart anyways and the cost is already alot whats another 450 bucks.....

colsoncj

The locker is already on the list.... Looks like 33's are the winner. What RPMS are you guys running with 33's 4.88's at around 75?

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

You can figure it out yourself with this calculator...

I get around 3200 or so with some 1/2 worn 33x10.50 ATs.

wifesaysimadumbass

i have no tach so i cant really tell you but it is definately the right combo for the setup. lets face it the 4 runners 22re will never be a 1/4 miler but i think with that gear and tire combo, it pretty much puts the power back to or close to stock

colsoncj

Ok, with the 4" lift, will 33X12.50's fit, or do i need to go to 33X10.50's? Regarding width, what is the proper backspacing on the rims for the sizes to work?

colsoncj

Quick question guys, how much more does a M/T tire wear compared to a A/T tire. Also, how mcuh more traction do you get from a M/T compared to a A/T?

colsoncj

anyone?

crawler#976

I had a (one, uno) set of BFG A/T's many years ago- prior to the "KO" labeling they use now. They lasted about 45,000 miles- but, and this is a big, uh, but I hated'm. IMO an A/T is a compromise tire. When you really need traction, they don't have it. In mud, even aired down, they packed up and turned into a slick. They were the worst tire I've ever owned in rain- OK until they were about half worn, but after that it was the hydroplaning tire I've ever used. About the only thing I liked them in was sand and light snow. They had enough floatation for sand and good void spaces for light dry snow and ice. In deep snow, they won't dig thru, pack up and turn into a slick again.

BFG M/T's- were the best available tire for almost 20 years in a radial traction tire. They wore OK for general trail riding on Forest Service roads- I used to get about 25,000 to 30,000 miles on a set in my old trail truck, a 1970 4x4 short bed GMC w/ a 350, auto, 3" lift and 32" or 33" tires. I retired it w/ 280,000 miles on the frame.

The SloYota was built to replace it, and take it up a notch or two as far as the type of trails it was capable of running. The rear diff was stuffed w/ 5.29 gears and a full spool. Here is my long term report on running M/T's:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...ghlight=mt%2Fr

I ran Outer Limits in Johnson Valley this year at the Tin Benders Jamboree- great experiance, hard on tires My brand new set of tires had 48 miles on'm when I left the Jambo, but looked like they'd been on the truck for a year or so of normal wheelin'. I made it thru the trail unassisted, but at a cost. Dinged up both d'shafts, tore up my exo, sheared off the seals on the knuckle, and damaged both third members. Actually broke two teeth on the front ring and pinion.........

colsoncj

Crawler, thanks a lot for the info, that was enough to sway me back to the M/T's. Couple questions though, you've had both BFG and Goodyear M/T tires. Which one held a better balance, and which one shined more when it came to being on a daily driver/weekend warrior. My truck sees a fair amount of highway and street use, but every weekend if i can, i'm playin in something with the truck.

Also, does anyone know if 33X12.5's will fit on a 1st gen 4Runner with a 4" lift, or if i need to downsize to a 33X10.5?

Either way, what kind of backspacing do i need?

crawler#976

Well, I'd have to say that the BFG's were "rounder" and balanced better.

As far as weights go on the MT/R's, I tend to have zero left after a typical trail run

This time I had'm balanced w/ tape weights on a Hunter Road Force machine at Discount Tire. They really felt good on the road until I aired'm down the first time. They are still better than they were w/ standard weights after a couple easy FS roads. My rig is not the best on road to start with, so my comparisions are apples to oranges....

colsoncj

Back to another question I had about tires, does anyone know, with the 4" lift, will 33X12.50's fit, or do i need to go to 33X10.50's? Regarding width, what is the proper backspacing on the rims for the sizes to work?

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Wheel specs depends on the lift, many of the 4" lifts require 3.75" backspace or less to clear the suspension components. I've got a buddy with a 4" Superlift kit, 3.5" b/s 15x8s and 33x12.50s. He needed a mild body lift to clear the tires off-road. The wider the wheel/tire combo and the less backspacing, the more lift or fender trimming you'll need to clear the tires up front. Why? Because a wider or more offset wheel/tire sweeps a wider arc while turning. As an example, I have another buddy who ran 33x10.50s on stock wheels w/ only a 2" body lift, no rubbing problems. Another buddy runs 33x12.50s on 15x8s w/ 4.75" backspacing, 1" body lift and cranked up torsion bars and it works fine, more info:
http://www.4Crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...it.shtml#FAQ10

884runner

i have the 4-5 inch superlift with 33x12.50 bfg muds on 16x8 inch wheels with 3.75 back spacing and they fit fine on the road but the first time i wheeled with the my rear flexed so much the tread on the tire riped off my mud flaps and the brackets that hold them on and the brackets cut chunks out of the tread of my new tires. i was piss. i would suggest getting a 1-2 inch body lift too just for the 33's if you plan to wheel your rig.i'm not saying this will happen to you but your set up that your are trying to get is basically what i got now and that's what happen to me. i will deff. get a body lift soon before i wheel again.
just My Opinion.
alan

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like the rear springs have relocated your axle within the wheel well to some degree. But that said, running wider wheels and tires, and wheels w/ less backspacing pushes the tires out farther from the body and increasing the likelyhood of rubbing.

Here's 33x10.50s on my '85 4Runner (3" body lift) that fill up the rear wheel well:


You can see the black line where I plan to cut the fenders out for more clearance when I put 35s on. You can also make some quick disconnect mud flaps to keep from having them ripped off again:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/MudFlap.shtml