i have a 00 tundra 4wd and need front struts to raise it 2.5" any suggestions?

 

 

Checkout www.wheelersoffroad.com

 

Check out http://www.teddnet.com/

I don't know if you want 2.5 inches as that will raise hell with the caster settings, CV joints etc. 1.75 is about right for 33" tires - go 1.9" passenger side and 2" driver side initially as it will probably settle to 1.75 each side after your first off-road run. Do the hose clamp fix on the CV boot at the same time as you’ll spit grease from the boot right off the bat.

 

right now i have spacers on but my shocks bottom out to easily. do you have any suggestions on new struts or coilovers? i am new to all this stuff so please inform me on the proper way of doing this.

 

Depends on what you're trying to do with your truck. If it's mainly for looks and you want to run larger tires then spacers such as Cornfed's http://www.cornfedsuspension.com/
and rear blocks will be the most economical way to go. A pricer way to go is coilovers and blocks, still pricer is coilovers and custom rear spring packs and the premium price route is something like Total Chaos http://www.chaosfab.com/tundralong.html
or Camburg
http://www.camburg.com/tundrap.html

If you're going off road, save yourself a lot of head aches and spend the money right off the bat and do it up right and get it over with – go Chaos or Camburg. Your truck will take on a prerunner look as you’ll have to get new front fenders and that wide look is definitely noticeable. If you’re not going off-road and don’t mind a firm ride go spacers and blocks. If you want to keep your ride comfort then go coilovers and a custom spring pack. If you want to give up just a touch of comfort go coilovers and add-a-leaf to get back your rake look and save a couple hundred over the custom spring pack.

Going the coilover route will mess with your alignment specs but you will be able to stay within Toyota’s specifications but that’s not saying much. The Tundra’s caster settings should be on the very high end of Toyota’s specs. With the coilovers you’ll be lucky to see a +1.

As for coilovers, there’s a lot of good ones on the market – the bigger diameter the better. If I was going that route (which I did once but never again) I’d go Camburg 2.5” coilovers.

If you're bottoming out using spacers, maybe all you need are new shocks if you're still running the stock factory shocks. If that's your problem just get a set of HD Bilsteins.

 

thank you for your time and your knowledge. i am going to look into coilovers. i already added a leaf spring in the back, as i haul stuff. thanks again this forum is really helpful to beginners like myself.

 

If you go the coilover route just remember to measure prior to installing the coilovers. Measure from the top of your wheel rim to the bottom of your fender flare before you take off the tires and install the coilovers. (that will be your stock height) When installing the coilovers crank the collar all the way down so there's no dialed in lift - it'll be a whole lot easier to install. Once you have the coilovers installed but prior to replacing the wheels crank them up using the supplied spanner wrench to whatever height is recommended for a 2" lift - go a little more on the drivers side. After doing this on both sides put the tires back on a drive around for a couple miles and then measure again from the top of the wheel rim to the bottom of the fender flare - that's how much lift you've got dialed in and you can adjust from there to get whatever amount of lift you want. Just remember that the coils will settle a little within a week or two so you want to be a little on the high side to begin with. Also do the hose clamp CV boot fix at that time as the boots will start to spit grease in a week or so.