Early Land Cruisers All solid front axles and Land Cruiser series - 25, 40, 45, 55, 60, 62, and 80

83 fj 60 carb

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Old Mar 29, 2011 | 05:57 PM
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From: nc
83 fj 60 carb

i just got a 83 fj 60 I was wondering if i should rebuild the carb thats on it, get a rebuilt carb, or get the weber carb kit? if i get the weber does it all hook back in to the vacuum lines just like stock? i also have not been able to get it n 4wd lo it goes in 4hi no prob but will not move over to n or 4lo ive tried putting it in 1st gear and easing out on the clutch while trying to push over the transfer shifter to 4lo but it just wont budge ne ideas??
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Old Mar 30, 2011 | 07:50 AM
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Why do you want to rebuild or replace the carb? You absolutely can't beat the Asin carb. I've never heard anything good about a weber on these motors. Not a bad idea to clean up the distributer and make sure the breaker plate rotates freely from the vacume advance/retard if you are concerned about performance issues. Also you have to accept its no hot rod. Its a good motor but in a heavy truck.

I would get under your truck and look at linkage. You should be looking at the area where the front output is on the tcase. It might just be stuck from lack of use. A few of these trucks probably could go 10 or 20 years without going in to low range.
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Old Mar 30, 2011 | 02:53 PM
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thanx im goin to check the vac advance and see how thats workin i already ordered a rebuild kit for the carb its been sitting for years it runs good with the motor cold and the choke on once the motor warms up u cant take the choke all the way off or the motor dies and it want take ne gas if u try to accelerate with or without the choke on
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Old Mar 30, 2011 | 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by toyocrf
thanx im goin to check the vac advance and see how thats workin i already ordered a rebuild kit for the carb its been sitting for years it runs good with the motor cold and the choke on once the motor warms up u cant take the choke all the way off or the motor dies and it want take ne gas if u try to accelerate with or without the choke on
There is fuel solenoid switch on the back r/h side (looking from the drivers seat) of the carb, its the only wire that goes to the carb. This controls the idle circuit in the carb but the engine will still run with the choke on. It tends to be a PITA sometimes and may be stuck or the circuit plugged with varnish. It would be worth removing and spraying in some carb clean. Also make sure there is 12 volts coming to it if it still doesn't work. Sounds like the accelerator pump is an issue as well. Throw the rebuild kit in it and see how it goes. Check the distributer too though even if you have to dissasemble it. It will be worth it in the long run.
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Old Mar 31, 2011 | 06:18 PM
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should i remove ne of the smog stuff or leave it all i want to make this truck easy as possible to work on but i want it to run like it should even if i rebuild the carb and it still doesnt run right it could be smog problems the truck is old and hasnt ran in years
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Old Mar 31, 2011 | 06:23 PM
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also how important is the thermosensor my cruiser has one in the converter but the wires to it are clipped what does that do and will it run fine with out it
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Old Apr 1, 2011 | 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by toyocrf
should i remove ne of the smog stuff or leave it all i want to make this truck easy as possible to work on but i want it to run like it should even if i rebuild the carb and it still doesnt run right it could be smog problems the truck is old and hasnt ran in years
I'd say desmog it if you can.

Originally Posted by toyocrf
also how important is the thermosensor my cruiser has one in the converter but the wires to it are clipped what does that do and will it run fine with out it
The converter? Do you mean in the thermostat housing? Mine had a temp actuated vacume valve in the thermostat housing for smog stuff.
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Old Apr 2, 2011 | 07:57 PM
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no its in the catalytic converter looks like a o2 sensor but its called a thermosensor in the repair manual
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Old Apr 2, 2011 | 10:19 PM
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oh, i have no idea then
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