1996 t100 4x4 work in progress
#21
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Thread Starter
Well I only need about 5 inches of vertical space, Im thinking of using 2 inch square bar. I want to keep the mount small so I can still use the bed. Planning on using 11.5 inch travel internal bypass shocks off a Raptor. With Deaver mini pack. I really wont know what it will look like until I do it.
#22
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Thread Starter
Went to texas canyon today aka Rowher flats. Really put the kit through the ringer, Gnarly LONG STEEP ROCKY hill climbs kept awesome traction, NO way could I have gotten to the top with stock suspension!
Here are some pics
Here are some pics
Last edited by Zpd426; 04-30-2012 at 12:28 AM.
#30
Registered User
hey truck looks good
i dig the front bumper too
im guessing you have the trailer hich up front for a removeable winch?
am wanting to do the same i have a 93 t100 reg cab
also about your locking hubs are they worth it ? do the t00s need them?
thanks
i dig the front bumper too
im guessing you have the trailer hich up front for a removeable winch?
am wanting to do the same i have a 93 t100 reg cab
also about your locking hubs are they worth it ? do the t00s need them?
thanks
#31
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Thread Starter
#32
Registered User
Thread Starter
I went to the locking hubs because I wore out my front driveshaft Twice. Im not sure if that is because of my trutrac up front or not, But I recommend the hubs. You dont want all of your front driveline spinning all the time. Again not sure if all auto hub t100s spin when not in 4x4 but mine did.
#33
Registered User
humm ya the 4x4 drive is auto on mine shift on the fly but think the t100 use ADD something to do with the vsc i think in the front gears
i found a 4 rider with asisn manal hubs so been wounldering if they would work for the t100 as for new locking hubs here cost 350 from warn
im guessing that if i do the hubs it will stop the cv from moving and wear and tear on them
just got to lock them im the winter and still can use the shift on the fly
i found a 4 rider with asisn manal hubs so been wounldering if they would work for the t100 as for new locking hubs here cost 350 from warn
im guessing that if i do the hubs it will stop the cv from moving and wear and tear on them
just got to lock them im the winter and still can use the shift on the fly
#35
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Thread Starter
Here is how I did the snorkel.
First I removed the old tube and mount from the fender, plugged the stock intake with a solid washer and siliconed It in.
2nd I used a 3 inch hole saw and cut a new hole in the stock airbox.
3rd I used a pvc coupler wrapped in a rubber coupler and trimmed the hole for a tight fit, then siliconed that in.
4th I cut a hole in the hood using a 3.5 hole saw designed for metal.
5th I mounted another pvc coupler wrapped in a rubber tape untill it became the right size. To the underside of my hood RE-utilizing The stock intake mount on the inside of the fender using sheet metal screws and something to act as a nut plate.
I had to use about a half inch of spacers to get the mount at the right angle so the snorkel went straight up.
And last I used a slinky like expanding intake hose so when i open the hood it expands and when I close the hood I guide it back down straight.
I need to cut some fuel line and circle it around the opening to make it a little cleaner. I have metal particles stuck the adhesive from the tape I used.... Excuse my dirt. just got back from a outing.
Snorkel and A new k&n replacement filter gave me a good amount more power and faster revs.
Total cost $25 for snorkel off ebay
$25 for hose off ebay
$20 for couplers etc.
$45 for K&N replacement filter
$20 for hole saws
First I removed the old tube and mount from the fender, plugged the stock intake with a solid washer and siliconed It in.
2nd I used a 3 inch hole saw and cut a new hole in the stock airbox.
3rd I used a pvc coupler wrapped in a rubber coupler and trimmed the hole for a tight fit, then siliconed that in.
4th I cut a hole in the hood using a 3.5 hole saw designed for metal.
5th I mounted another pvc coupler wrapped in a rubber tape untill it became the right size. To the underside of my hood RE-utilizing The stock intake mount on the inside of the fender using sheet metal screws and something to act as a nut plate.
I had to use about a half inch of spacers to get the mount at the right angle so the snorkel went straight up.
And last I used a slinky like expanding intake hose so when i open the hood it expands and when I close the hood I guide it back down straight.
I need to cut some fuel line and circle it around the opening to make it a little cleaner. I have metal particles stuck the adhesive from the tape I used.... Excuse my dirt. just got back from a outing.
Snorkel and A new k&n replacement filter gave me a good amount more power and faster revs.
Total cost $25 for snorkel off ebay
$25 for hose off ebay
$20 for couplers etc.
$45 for K&N replacement filter
$20 for hole saws
#37
my experience with driving into water at speeds is the water splashing up and on top of the hood. i guess you could always turn your snorkel head to face the other way when the time comes. oh btw i just got my LT installed and got about 100 miles on it.
#38
Registered User
Thread Starter
My truck still down shifts to third on big hills if I don't get a chance to gain momentum, like in traffic. It will help but only so much.
Ya that's the only drawback. But I just came back from a trip that would have snatched off my snorkel from the top if I had it there.. more often its trees rather than water. At some point I want to set it up so I can have it easily changeable from hood to door frame to be ready for low trees and also water.
Congrats on the long travel!
Ya that's the only drawback. But I just came back from a trip that would have snatched off my snorkel from the top if I had it there.. more often its trees rather than water. At some point I want to set it up so I can have it easily changeable from hood to door frame to be ready for low trees and also water.
Congrats on the long travel!
Last edited by Zpd426; 06-05-2012 at 12:02 AM.