95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

Won't start. Help please!

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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 08:39 AM
  #21  
kmchby76's Avatar
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From: Elk Grove, CA
Originally Posted by MTL_4runner
This is a joke right? .....you can't possibly be serious.

No this is not a joke. It really does happen. I suggest taking the battery to autozone or a kragen for a charge. Next time you take out the battery place it on some wood.

Last edited by kmchby76; Aug 18, 2006 at 08:41 AM.
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 08:52 AM
  #22  
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FWIW: http://ca.answers.yahoo.com/question...=1006042925696
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 09:22 AM
  #23  
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From: Elk Grove, CA
It appears I stand corrected. But I do know it has happened to me.
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 11:06 AM
  #24  
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From: Montreal, QC Canada
It sounds like one of those theoretical possibilities rarely seen in real life.
In practice I've seen more batteries killed/losing charge from heat than I have from cold.
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 11:15 AM
  #25  
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From: Colorado
Originally Posted by MTL_4runner
That sounds like a pretty serious battery drain to me (like a relay or something similar. Check the voltage with the key in the off position vs key in the on position vs trying to start and tell me what you get. You may even have a fried starter solenoid too....not sure yet.
Key off = 12.81 volts at battery
Key on = 12.51 volts at battery
Key on/start = 12.31 volts at battery

When I turned the key to test, the started clicked and everything went dim. I hooked it up to my wife's car to try to jump it, nothing.
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 11:16 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by MTL_4runner
In practice I've seen more batteries killed/losing charge from heat than I have from cold.
Yeah, I know all about that. I had one explode under the hood of my Taco. That darn sulfuric acid ate the paint, etc. Thankfully the hood was closed and I just went to start it. Everyone at the gas station took cover because they thought someone shot at them.
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 01:57 PM
  #27  
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From: Colorado
FIXED!!!

It was the stupid terminal. It was so corroded that no current was getting through. The cables are fine. All the fuses checked out (although I broke the ABS fuse trying to remove it). I was beginning the process of removing the cables with I took a closer look at the terminal. I went to the local parts house and bought a new one. It's funny that it took a $3 to fix it. I have a new idea for a MasterCard commercial though:

New battery for truck that won't start - $70
New battery charger for truck that won't start - $43
New fuses, relays, and miscellaneous other parts - $40
Red mark caused by slapping your forehead with your hand after you realize it was only needed a $3 part - priceless
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Old Aug 19, 2006 | 09:40 PM
  #28  
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From: Seattle, WA
Originally Posted by HaveBlue
FIXED!!!

It was the stupid terminal. It was so corroded that no current was getting through. The cables are fine. All the fuses checked out (although I broke the ABS fuse trying to remove it). I was beginning the process of removing the cables with I took a closer look at the terminal. I went to the local parts house and bought a new one. It's funny that it took a $3 to fix it. I have a new idea for a MasterCard commercial though:

New battery for truck that won't start - $70
New battery charger for truck that won't start - $43
New fuses, relays, and miscellaneous other parts - $40
Red mark caused by slapping your forehead with your hand after you realize it was only needed a $3 part - priceless
Congrats! persistance pays off and this time cheap!
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Old Aug 20, 2006 | 06:42 AM
  #29  
MTL_4runner's Avatar
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From: Montreal, QC Canada
Unfotunately Alan you are far from alone on spending lots of money to solve a simple problem....they are often the most elusive. At least you got a new battery/charger out of the deal and labor was free....at a shop you probably would have paid/come out the same minus the charger.

Last edited by MTL_4runner; Aug 20, 2006 at 06:44 AM.
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