What to do with IAC valve?
#1
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What to do with IAC valve?
Last week my CEL came on, so I pulled the codes which said P0505 - Idle Control Systems. After searching, it looks like the culprit is the IAC valve so I pulled the valve, took it apart and cleaned it really good but the light is still on and I can still feel it in the throttle. I guess the next step is replacing the valve. I called the dealership and they quoted me $680 for the part. After I stopped laughing I found it at an online Toyota parts site for $200. There are also some on Ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyot...=p4506.c0.m245 for 80-90 so my question is; has anyone tried one of these, are they good? Any other tips? Thanks
Last edited by kernel; 09-08-2009 at 09:02 PM.
#3
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I can't say the ebay ones are bad because I've never used one, but like anything, non-OEM parts are never as good as original - usually you get what you pay for. Did you use a little RTV silicone to seal the IAC and solenoid back together?
I'm not sure if the "idle control systems" code necessarily means the IAC. It might, but it's not the only component in the "system". Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the IAC can be tested w/ a volt meter to see if it's within specs.
I'm not sure if the "idle control systems" code necessarily means the IAC. It might, but it's not the only component in the "system". Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the IAC can be tested w/ a volt meter to see if it's within specs.
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I'm having the same problem on my '99 4Runner. I don't mind spending $200 if that solves the problem. $600 is a little silly considering what is in the valve.
What is it that makes these valves "bad" in the first place? Is it air leakage? Dirt build-up that makes it sticky?
What is it that makes these valves "bad" in the first place? Is it air leakage? Dirt build-up that makes it sticky?
#6
This is jus something to think about..for preventive maintinence..short story..i have a 03 but w/o the iac..i have the control motor version..anyway some years ago working on my elcamino...as you know ..its best to run distilled water in the radiator along with the antifreeze ..to prevent the calcium..etc.deposits from collecting on the inside fins..thus corroding ur radiator and wearing out ur pump eventually..alias..all that crap that goes through ur cooling system..what i did was, i modified a refrigerator water filter and installed it inline on my heater hose side ..it caught a lotta crap and i changed it out at times..in other words it kept all debri from corroding my radiator (new one i installed at that time and still have it in..still is very clean inside)...only downside is, it could only do its job (filtering the whole system )if i had the heater on...but hey during the summer i turned it on for a few miles ..so this iac could possibly be getting glogged with all the impurities in the system..give what i did a try or a inline cleanable glass fuel filter (that might work..considering the diameter of the iac's water hoses
#7
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Usually IAC problems are felt with stalling after a hot start. I've never got a CEL.
I'd try cleaning the MAF and resetting the CEL by pulling the negative cable, see if it comes back. The MAF (Mass Air Flow sensor) is located right behind the air box. Just a thought to do b4 dishing out the money.
I'd try cleaning the MAF and resetting the CEL by pulling the negative cable, see if it comes back. The MAF (Mass Air Flow sensor) is located right behind the air box. Just a thought to do b4 dishing out the money.
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Another thing that I've noticed is when I'm idling along at a slow speed, I can't feather the gas pedal very well. If I'm going 5mph or so with the rpm at 1000, with just a slight increase in throttle, the rpm shoot up. It almost launches forward but not enough to be dangerous.
#10
Did you ever figure this out? I'm having similar symptoms...
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/3...h-idle-198330/
Thanks for the info...
Cheers,
Jeremy
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/3...h-idle-198330/
Thanks for the info...
Cheers,
Jeremy
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