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Also Bassbro, the steering wheel shakes and the hood. Its definitely vibration coming from the engine but I don't know whats causing it. I've been in a lot of other cars with auto transmissions that do it, but never this bad.
is this thread still going? i read this whole thing and it sems you have fund no solution. I have a 1988 toyota pickup. it is my baby and i love her, im a girl so i dont know much of what i, talking about so try to stay with me. When i park or am stopped it shakes pretty violently . when i am in gear i can feel a little shake in the steering wheel but doesnt shake as bad, my ac doesnt work so i cant try that. i had recently replaced pretty much my whole cooling system but i still loose water all the time and i have an oil leak. i try to make sure my fluids are always filled but it doesnt seem to help the shaking, my truck doesnt over heat, there is no check engine light. could it be because my truck is leaking oil it made some sensors dirty or something? i dont know what to do and i live in the sticks with my bf and our 6 yr old so i dont really have the money to take it to a mechanic. any suggestions help
Hello Brienna! Yes this thread is always going. First thing first. I need to get to know your vehicle. Here are a few things I need to know
Is it 2 or 4 wheel drive?
Is it manual or automatic?
When the vehicle shakes do you hear any clicking or tapping noises?
What do you smell when the vehicle is shaking violently?
When you lose water, can you see it dripping or does the water just disappear?
When the vehicle is running, what color is the exhaust? white, blue, or off white or clear (normal)?
Do you know where the oil leak is at?
Answer all the questions you can for me. I will help you the best I can online. I live in the sticks too so I know what it is like to not be able to go to a mechanic. That is why I became one.
BTW, Take tons of pictures and post them if you can. Pictures are a huge help.
So I will hit on this to have a starting point for violent vibration!
Worn Out Spark Plugs
In many vehicles a common cause of engine vibration is worn out or faulty spark plugs. Worn out or dirty spark plugs will cause the car's engine to misfire or not properly fire on each and every cylinder. When this occurs, it is commonly referred to as the engine missing or not firing on all cylinders. This can usually be corrected by installing new and correct spark plugs (some Toyota' take a dual electrode spark plug and will not run on single electrode spark plugs), or correcting other spark or compression-related issues. Another piece to this part of the puzzle is spar plug wires. It is a good practice to check the resistance in the wires before installing (0-0.3).
Loose or Disconnected Hoses
Loose or disconnected hoses can also be a common cause of many types of engine vibration. A loose or disconnected air hose or vacuum hose can cause quite a bit of violent shaking and vibration in your car's engine. To correct the problem, simply look for any loose or disconnected hoses and reattach them and replace them as needed.
Broken Motor Mounts
If the vehicle shakes violently or the engine vibrates excessively when stopped at a red light or when parked with the engine on, this may be a good indicator that the motor mounts or transmission mounts on the vehicle are damaged or broken. A good way to tell if this is the problem is to simply put the car in neutral and see if the vibration or shaking decreases a bit. If it does, this is a good sign that there may be problems with your engines motor mounts.
Faulty or Poorly Adjusted Fuel Intake System
Another common problem that causes engine vibration and nasty shaking is a poorly adjusted fuel intake system. Sometimes, idling problems that cause engine vibration may be as simple as adjusting the idle on a carb or cleaning components in the fuel intake system so that fuel passes through the engine more easily creating cleaner and more efficient combustion your car's engine. A part to check first to be cleaned is the throttle body (if you have fuel injected). With engine off, push the flap open, spray carb cleaner inside and use a tooth brush and clean as far down as possible and wipe with a rag or cloth. make sure no strings are left behind from cloth. If vehicle doesn't start after just wait a bit and try again.
Faulty Timing Belt
Problems with your vehicle's timing belt, or other belt driven accessories, are another common cause of engine vibrations in vehicles. Timing belts and other belts that are loose or damaged will cause components controlled by belts such as fans and other parts to not rotate or turn a consistent speeds which will result in strange sounds and vibrations from your car's engine. To avoid these types of problems, you should frequently inspect all of the belts in your vehicle to make sure that they are free from cracks and ribbing and also make sure that the belts are tight and operating as they should. If your manual says that the timing belt should be changed at 60,000 or 90,000 or whatever, make sure it gets changed. Last thing you would want is for a timing belt to break.
I hope these will help in your start to finding your vibration. There are so many more things that could cause it but start from here.
It idles just fine before it reaches operating temp. You can actually watch it happen. As the temp needle moves to where the thermostat opens...BHAM, the vibration kicks in. Kind of makes me think vacuum leak of some kind but I did my best to eliminate this.
Probably caused by a bad fan clutch, as the engine heats up it engages and then it caused the vibration. The shaft on the fan clutch or bearings are worn out.
You will note that when there is no vibration the fan is not turning, when you first crank up and the engine is cool. When the vibration starts the fan is turning, the engine is hot. You could take the fan belt off and note that it is not vibrating. Don't let it over heat. From your description of the problem I'm about 99% sure that is your problem. Good luck. George
Thank you for the words of advice. Just two things I need to consider though.
Removing the drive belt for the cooling fan and then waiting for the engine to get to op temp WILL overheat it some, right. I won't let it "redline" but the temp will rise higher than it should. Not sure I feel comfortable doing this. I am a novice though so maybe this is totally fine. I do like the idea of it for narrowing down the vibration source.
Second, is that if the clutch, clutch bearing, or WP shaft were causing the vibration from going bad I think one or more of them would have bit it by now. The truck has been vibrating like this since February 2011. A failing clutch or other part would have totally gone kaput within five years. Again, I'm a novice so maybe one or more of these could be "bad" for a long time.
Anyway, those are my thoughts.
I do not have time for testing and analysis as my wife and I are moving from Maine to Washington in three weeks. DC can appreciate the irony of me ordering a mini-header from WA coast and having it shipped to the the east coast, only to bolt it on and drive it right back. There and back, an exhaust manifold's tale.
That mini-header replacement is as awesome as everyone says. Not a bad job either and I'm in the salt here in the ME winters. I digress. Thanks all.
My brother had a Tacoma and had this same problem for four years. He trouble shoot everything from one end to the other. Several weeks back he found the problem by accident. The clutch on your fan activates when the engine gets hot and engages the actual fan. Your fan free wheels until the engine gets hot. Any mechanic will verify what I have explained. Good luck.
Hi everyone. New on here but have read this thread in its entirety! I have the exact same problem with my 93 4runner 3vze automatic with 4WD. I was curious if anyone had found any solution to this very annoying problem.
Also curious if this vibration is detrimental at all to the vehicle.
Read this thread in its entireity hoping up and down would at last find his solution (as it plagues mine as well).
Its been two years since your last post in this thread, have you just lived with it? Any damage to your rig as a result?
Hello, I also just read this entire thread hoping for an Ah Ha! moment at the end... no such luck. Does anyone have any updates?
Anyone have luck with the fan clutch being the issue? I have a 99' tacoma with the 2.4, and have been chasing down this same problem for a year now. getting very frustrated.
I have done pretty much everything that has been mentioned on this thread. I have taken my fan clutch off and inspected it, and it seems fine as per this video
Im down to trying a new torque converter, or replacing the fan clutch to see if it fixed the vibration.
I new this thread is a year and a half dormant, just wandering if any of you guys are out there still dealing with this problem.
Hi guys, I have a 2015 Scion tC automatic, which has the idle shake at stop lights too, it’s driving me nuts. I’ve had the spark plugs changed, MAF cleaned twice, EFI service done from Toyota and the vibration is still there. No codes are being thrown, but I have a feeling that the low idle/almost stalling when coming to a fast stop could be caused by the coolant temp sensor. I had this issue, well worse, with my 98 Camry, that would stall each time coming off the freeway, changing the coolant temp sensor stopped the stalling. I’m wondering if the coolant temp sensors are causing this vibration at idle? Has anyone come across a real fix for this issue?
This thread probably isn't that relevant to your car because of how much newer it is, and uses different setups than the Tacomas mentioned above.
Since these modern vehicles have complex computer systems that run your engine, it is best to "see" what the computer is seeing.
What you really need is a scan tool that has the ability to give you live engine data. Then you need to have the knowledge required to see if anything in the live data looks "out of place".
Unless this is a common problem with Scions of this vintage (I don't know, I have never worked on one), it is hard to give an answer as to what could be the problem.
Does the Scion have a tachometer? If so, when you get the shaking, does the tachometer show the engine idling lower than normal?
What did the Toyota dealership say when they did your service?
So we all thought this thread was dead. Well no. The vibration/rough idle came back shortly. Yesterday and today I removed the throttle body and idle air control valve (IACV) and cleaned them thoroughly. Checked all vacuum lines and cleaned MAF. So the complete list of procedures to cure the vibration up to date are:
1. remove TB and IACV and clean them throroughly. Also tested IACV. It's good.
2. replaced belts, spark plugs, plug wires, dist. cap and rotor.
3. removed MAF and cleaned thoroughly.
4. disconnected top vacuum hose going into EGR and clamped it shut.
All of these did not fix the problem. It still vibrates while in D or R and at a stop only at operating temperature.
My next attempt will be Sea Foam down the PCV hose to clean of the valves.
Help! What else could it be? Tranny mount?
After this I think it's going to the Toyota Dealership up the road and I'll let them sort it out, albeit with my wallet getting thinner.
Any fresh ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Have a good weekend all.
My 2015 SR5 stared vibrating on take at about 40mph. Take off fast doesn't do it take in Drive instead of OD doesn't do it took To PC Toyota said it was torque converter wanted to charge me 8000$ for a new one 146000 on truck he tried to act like that was a lot of miles. The reason I bought a Toyota they are supposed to last no other issues ever.l looked at used saw dealerships with trucks had 120000 for sale 20000 $.Said probably do a used transmission for 4000$ not an option they flushed the tyranny charged me 420$ for a maybe fix .if it doesn't ill trade it in.im not happy
You dummy. You said you were a mechanic but can't figure out this simple problem?
bro come on.
Everyone do yourself a favor and replace the drive shaft carrier bearing.
thank me by learning diagnosing and how to use a multimeter. Then you solve problems. Not ask questions..
BTW don't ask me what you want to ask me "the drives haft doesn't move while stationary."
Just do it.
ALSO if you hit a bump and are turning at the same time and hear a loud cling coming from seemingly your steering wheel column. You'll want to disassemble it down to the collar that's weld broke and re weld it.
replace your coil packs before youre on the side of the road..
replace your cats after 190k or you'll have needed to replace them before..
Your EGR should be new don't be behind the curve.
your rear shocks are bad.. they are bad.
unless you know that already.
transmission mounts are bad from the factory for your tacomas.
everyone else like the dummy with the scion or guy with new taco go away.
For anyone not having the exact same issue or with a different truck. Go away..
BTW replace your alternator. Even if it hasn't broken yet..
Last thing.. if you have the 2.4 or 2.7 adjust your valves and replace your radiator by 150k
if you haven't adjusted your valves and You're at 200k You're an idiot..
Good luck everyone.
My 2001 prerunner 2.7l 3rz-fe has 700k and still on the stock internals of the engine and trans.
thats about it thats stock. Suspension was crap and even after 2k spent its still crap.
also its only 2wd. If your 4wd has made it to 250k You're not driving it. You must have it on blocks in drive idling.
Almost forgot.. go change your trans filter and oil.. if you know nothing don't do any of the above.. and mechanic guy you can only check trans level after the truck has ran for 20 minutes driving. Then check while the truck is running and check 5 times because it'll change. You should know all these things by now if you own that truck and use the title mechanic. Otherwise leave it to the professionals and BTW the stealership is a scam. If you were a tech youd know that. Never take anything there unless you're like the dummy with the new taco then goodluck with your hunk o junk and you belong at the dealer.
You dummy. You said you were a mechanic but can't figure out this simple problem?
bro come on.
Everyone do yourself a favor and replace the drive shaft carrier bearing.
thank me by learning diagnosing and how to use a multimeter. Then you solve problems. Not ask questions..
BTW don't ask me what you want to ask me "the drives haft doesn't move while stationary."
Just do it.
ALSO if you hit a bump and are turning at the same time and hear a loud cling coming from seemingly your steering wheel column. You'll want to disassemble it down to the collar that's weld broke and re weld it.
replace your coil packs before youre on the side of the road..
replace your cats after 190k or you'll have needed to replace them before..
Your EGR should be new don't be behind the curve.
your rear shocks are bad.. they are bad.
unless you know that already.
transmission mounts are bad from the factory for your tacomas.
everyone else like the dummy with the scion or guy with new taco go away.
For anyone not having the exact same issue or with a different truck. Go away..
BTW replace your alternator. Even if it hasn't broken yet..
Last thing.. if you have the 2.4 or 2.7 adjust your valves and replace your radiator by 150k
if you haven't adjusted your valves and You're at 200k You're an idiot..
Good luck everyone.
My 2001 prerunner 2.7l 3rz-fe has 700k and still on the stock internals of the engine and trans.
thats about it thats stock. Suspension was crap and even after 2k spent its still crap.
also its only 2wd. If your 4wd has made it to 250k You're not driving it. You must have it on blocks in drive idling.
Almost forgot.. go change your trans filter and oil.. if you know nothing don't do any of the above.. and mechanic guy you can only check trans level after the truck has ran for 20 minutes driving. Then check while the truck is running and check 5 times because it'll change. You should know all these things by now if you own that truck and use the title mechanic. Otherwise leave it to the professionals and BTW the stealership is a scam. If you were a tech youd know that. Never take anything there unless you're like the dummy with the new taco then goodluck with your hunk o junk and you belong at the dealer.
?????
What is with all of the bad-mouthing?
We don't do that here at YotaTech.
Go over to other forums if that is all you want to do...
Bought a 95.5 taco 2.4 a few weeks ago and she shake rattle and roll. The most promising things on this whole thread that I haven't tried yet or been eliminated by others are exhaust examination for contact, coolant temp sensor (although I 5hink up and down said he tried that) and loose rockers. I gotta do valve covers soon so I will try to remember to report how it turns out. Obviously if it's a fix I'll dash to the computer and let everyone know. Fingers crossed.
02-18-2015, 08:08 AM
