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All,

I'm signing out of this thread. I'm giving up if that's what you want to call it. I've read other threads about Tacos and other makes and models and the majority opinion is torque converter. My hat's off to you GranVille4Crawler. You nailed the diagnosis years ago right after I posted. So the torque converter thing doesn't get worse or do damage according to some other threads. So I'm going deal with it, or I should say continue to deal with it as that's what we've all been doing for some time now.

Thanks to all for their input into this thread. I hope you're like me and learned a lot in this process. I guess that's the great thing about forums.

I look forward to more YotaTech in the future but it won't be in this thread.

Later all you torque converters vibrations dealers-with.

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All,

I'm back. I can't believe it. I wish had good solution news.

I'm thinking this vibration could be caused by the harmonic balancer. It seems these go bad. There is a rubber component that does not age well (I have a 1995 2 rz fe). I've got a stethoscope to test out the new ticking sound that seems to be coming from the harmonic balancer and the two crank pulleys there as well. I took the drive belts off of the AC with no change then took the PS belt off with no change. So I've eliminated them from the ticking/vibration situation.

While replacing the harmonic balancer, what else should I replace? Are there seals that should be done while the HB is off?

I've read tricks about breaking the crank bolt using a breaker bar against the frame and using the starter (unplugged from dist) to break it loose. Good or bad?

Are there timing issues after the HB is off with the 2 rz fe engine? It has a timing chain.

How is everyone else's vibrations?

giantjoebot

Yeah there is a gasket, and you might want to replace it while your in there. I just had to replace mine a few months ago, and it was a pain. Had to use a torch and a impact wrench to get the bolt off.

Personally depending on the vibration, you might want to just live with it. Getting that bolt off is a pain.

Personally I think my problem is the clamp that attaches the exhaust to the transmission. But I don't drive my truck as often anymore, so I haven't tried taking it off yet.

bassbro1

i used the right sized socket with a long half inch breaker bar and then slid a long pipe on it and rocked it back and forth till it made the distinctive tink noise when it broke loose. from there it was easy. when i tightened it i used the same setup with a long half inch Proto torque wrench and slowly turned till it clicked. be gentle cause you can break bolt if not careful.

mark your hb if you think there might be an issue. sometimes the balencer will only go on one way but mark a chalk line or white out or tape at the top of pulley and engine block.

good luck

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bassbro1,

Do you have a manual trannny? How did you keep the HB from turning when loosening/tightening?

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Today I'm going to find out of the new ticking/chirping noise is from my fan/WP pulley or from the HB/crank pulley. If it's from the HB/crank area I'm going to go for the replace. If it's from the fan/WP area I'm going to try to find out specifically what the noise is. I just bought a stethoscope so hopefully that helps. A lot of people on this forum swear by them.

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Question about the harmonic balancer.

Should it move at all when the engine is off and the belt is off?

It has like an outer metal part that seems to move a little bit when pulled laterally.

Thoughts?

It doesn't seem like it should do this at all.

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Whew! Cranked it up with just the HB on. That bastard was wobbling like a drunk rhino. The chirping sound was coming from it rubbing on the oil pump housing. It wasn't bad. Just a light glaze on the metal. The ticking sound was coming from the HB when the outer metal edge would drift back towards the radiator and tick. It would then drift back toward the engine and chirp (rubbing on the oil pump housing).

Using the breaker bar/engine bump trick got the pulley bolt out easy.

Quick question. Is it bad to rotate the engine counter clockwise? I did this just a bit and realized it. Will this mess up timing or damage valves or anything?

Thanks to all for thoughts and additions to this.

Now the big question will be if it changes the big idle vibration this whole thread is devoted to.

Updates to come next week. I'm going OEM for the HB and oil seal so it will be a couple of days at least until I get my hands on the parts.

Later.

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So for replacing the HB what thoughts do you guys have?

Buy new HB and CS seal from Toyota. Is there anything else I should replace while doing this? I heard someone mention an oil pump o-ring. Thoughts?

Put in new seal.

Put new HB on with PS and AC pulleys attached.

Screw in CS pulley bolt.

Now, how to torque it correctly? And what is the torque value for the 2rz engines? Anyone?

Thank you all.

bassbro1

As long as your timing chain is on and tight then your timing will not get messed up. I had to make a tool (that i found on this sight) that would fit the pulley. If engine turns with pulley off it will not change timing. just make sure new pulley is torqued on.

Yes my transmission is a manual.

The torque on that bolt is 193 ft-lbs. You may have to make a tool to hold pulley, but use the pipe on a big torque wrench and be careful; it will make it easier

bassbro1

Big thing is check to make sure it is the HB or the shaft that is bent.

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Shaft? Do you mean the crankshaft?

God I hope not. With the HB in hand you can see how fahcocked it is. The rubber has come loose.

It's a 1995 with only 148K but rubber ages the same whether it's high mileage or not.

bassbro1

Okay just making sure. I had an 86 yota. I was out four wheelin and i heard a loud crack and started hearing weird noises and out of balance. i was told to replace HB. when i took it off there was a huge dent and the crankshaft was bent. Apparently i hit a rock lol. Good thing i had a spare engine

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Spare engine? Yeah, if you're out wheelin' it pays to have a spare. Too bad they don't fit under the seat.

Hey, when pulling the crank seal, I knicked the oil pump flange with the puller tool. It's slight but I can feel it with my finger.

Would you recommend just sanding it down before putting in the new seal?

Thanks.

bassbro1

I wouldn't do anything unless it will ruin the new seal. If you do sand it i would say be very very careful that you don't over sand. just a couple passes with sandpaper by hand is all you need. use a light grit

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I successfully replaced the harmonic balancer (crankshaft pulley) on Thursday afternoon. All seems fine.

The vibration continues. So all of you thinking of replacing it to stop the vibration, don't. It did not fix the issue.

My HB needed replacement as the rubber had separated.

Good luck to all looking to fix the vibration issue.

bassbro1

I thought about all the vibration and couldn't put my finger on it. One day I walked out to my 88 2wd and started it up. It began violently shaking. When I stepped on the throttle it would clear up. The noise was aggravating so I shut it down.

I went through the engine checking mounts, brackets, and pulleys. I tested spark plugs, rotor, wires, and checked oil. Everything checked out to spec. I then decided to open the valve cover and started checking rockers.

To my surprise I had a few loose rockers, and a few too tight rockers. I got everything I needed to re install first and then I adjusted my rockers cold 0.08 intake and 0.10 exhaust. I re installed everything and said a little prayer when I got in the seat. I turned the key and the truck started right up, and no more violent shaking.

I can't say this will work for everyone but it is a thought that many people don't think about.

Good Luck!!

LVJPW

My 88 22rte is a very smooth running truck until I'm at a stoplight and in drive. If I could fix this it will be my favorite truck I've ever owned. If it's too annoying I'll throw it neutral and put it back in drive when the light turns green, but I've got a feeling I shouldn't be doing it that often.

bassbro1

LVJPW,

Does it clunk when you put it in Drive? What does it feel like when you are in Drive at a light? Do you hear any strange noises? Any strange smells?

LVJPW

Bassbro1 ,It used to make a thud when I put it in reverse, but i had the transmission fluid changed and it doesn't clunk anymore. It also shifts smooth now but it didn't used to. The truck only has 125k on the clock. The other day i applied the parking brake and put it in drive and increased the idle to about 900rpm and that got rid of the vibration. The only issue is that when it's in park or neutral now, the rpms are sitting at 1300rpm. Is it normal for the rpms to drop so much when the truck is in drive? I'm hoping this is a motor mount problem and not a transmission but who knows. torque converter?

Also, sorry about posting this in the 3rd gen 4runner page. Its the closest thread I could find with my issue.