jherring

I did it, I cracked the driver side valve cover tightening the bottom front bolt on my 2002 Tacoma 3.4L V6. I really don't want to pay someone to do something, from all appearances, I can do. Does anyone have a list of the gaskets I'll need? I have 167,000 plus miles on it and this is the first problem I've had; is there anything else I should check and/or replace while I have it apart? Will it really take 7 plus hours to tear it down and reassemble, doesn't look like that much to do? I'm guessing a lot of prep work labeling everything. Should I use Locktite red or blue on the valve cover bolts? I've searched and read a lot of post on this subject, but wanted to ask for a little more. Thanks for the help in advance. Jeff

Bojangles

Autozone, get a valve cover gasket KIT. $30?

Pull the valve cover off, put gaskets on, replace with new valve cover...
Do both sides if you want...shouldn't take longer than 20 minutes a side.

jherring

That sounds like my 67 Pontiac Tempest; can't be that easy. I can only see half of the valve cover bolts.

Bojangles

Hmmm...I was thinking about the 3.0 rather than the 3.4.

Im not real sure bubba...Its one of those things you'll have to check out for yourself.

scuba

They're like 12 bucks from the dealer.

Bojangles

I was guessing haha
My kit with valve cover gasket and the half moons is like 20+tax
But thats for a 22re...

DailyDrive

Was this with a torque wrench? Progressively tightening each bolt vs. tightening tight one at a time?

tunnelmotor99

I did both cover gaskets last year @ 181000 miles to fix oil leaks. It took me about 2 hours because I worked slow and overall it was pretty easy. You do have to remove the intake plenum to get to all the VC bolts but that's no big deal. FYI: When you take the plenum off, place a shop rag over the lower plenum openings so nothing will fall in there while you're working! I got the felpro gasket kit from autozone which came with both gaskets and spark plug tube seals(which were a bitch to replace on mine due to their age, so buy a $5 seal removal tool while you're @ the store) I wouldn't use any loctite on those bolts, they don't need it anyway.

danimal92sport

Bojangles; I appreciate your desire to help, but you do not have experience with this job on a 3.4L. Why guess and give bad information? I don't want to be rude, but this is becoming a common problem on this forum.

I'm going to need to do this job in the next few weeks myself. I have located what I believe to be the correct Toyota part numbers for the valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube seals, but haven't found the intake manifold gasket part numbers. Does anyone have these part numbers? After 10 years of using aftermarket parts (NAPA, O'Reilley, AutoZone, etc) I'm not interested in anything but OEM Toyota parts...

Valve Cover Gasket, 3.4L: 11213-62020
Spark Tube Gasket, 3.4L: 11193-70010

Thanks,

Dan

logsurfer

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/r...37/index2.html

Post #28 are part numbers.

take note of post 17, & 20

97ltd4x4

I just replaced the valve cover gaskets for a friend of mine. We used a kit from Beck Arnley instead of buying the individual parts from the dealer:cover gaskets,bolt grometts,spark plug tube seals:
Beck Arnley 036-1583 Valve Cover Gasket Set
http://www.amazon.com/Beck-Arnley-03.../dp/B000CAVM0A

We reused the plenum and throttle body gaskets since they are steel.

we did replace the IAC rubber gasket:
#2215
http://www.utoyot8.com/Picture.aspx?...ccode=&ppName=

We replaced the plugs,cleaned throttle body,cleaned mass air flow ,cleaned the IAC(see above gasket to clean IAC)

We used blue loctite on the valve cover bolts,FIPG in the corners of the gaskets and on top of the half moons,resealed the cam caps(black plug at one end of each head).

The right stuff will work if you do not have any FIPG:
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-25224.../dp/B000HBM4FQ

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

get a throttle body gasket from URD, eliminates the 'D' shape (restriction) and gives slightly better flow; $5 I think....

I reused my plenum gasket when I did my SC, the only one available at the time was an entire gasket set for $100... I just made sure it went on in the same orientation (it's reversable) and no issues, not the recommended technique but ya know....

I have a small leak on my 5vz valve covers, I will be joining you jherring in replacing mine in the near future....

jherring; needless to say now probably but, make sure to look at the torque specs on those 10mm valve cover bolts! it's not very much....

Mtn Mike

iTrader: (1)

Here's a pretty good thread talking about how to do valve cover gaskets on a 3.4 4Runner:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/r...gasket-196737/

I did mine last summer with 140K miles. For some reason I have bad luck with gaskets and now they're leaking again 15K miles later. I might pay to have it done this time :/

logsurfer

97ltd4x4, could you please elaborate on how to reseal the cam caps in the back. I think they're held by a metal tab and two bolts but im not sure. if you click on the link I provided above, there is a picture of this cap. Do you take that off? If so, how?
Appreciate the help!

J2F42C

Log,

Check out pages EM-37 and EM-51 in the service manual.
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/

The cam seal plug is a rubber plug at the back of each cylinder head and sits where a distributor would be if the 3.4's ignition utilized one or more. I helped my friend change his out when we did his valve cover gaskets. The part # is 11188-62010. We just cleaned and reused the semicircular plugs since they are not rubber.

If ya want to see a Toyota engine with two distributors, check out the Lexus LS 400. I guess why it lasts forever.

Tony 03

Sorry to bring back an older thread but I figured I could add to the issues ran into while replacing VC gaskets.

Please help...

1) Twisted fuel inlet hard line... Slipped and turned the coupler. Should I replace this and if so, what needs to be done to replace this? Is there a trouble code for fuel restriction? Picture attached.

2) Im using green scotch brite to clean off all mating surfaces except for the head since its hard to keep debris out of there.. Intake plenums, throttle body, etc. Any issues with this? I figure I could wash out the debris with intake cleaner before I bolt back up.

3) This is my first post but Ive been reading all the great tech articles for a while. The VC project is the biggest task Ive ever taken on. I really should have read more. Its been more of a learning experience for me. Any recommendations to make the rest of the process easier? Heres what I have left to do:

- Install new PCV valve and grommet
- Install new spark plug tube seals
- Clean all mating surfaces and bolt back up to torque spec... FIPG on the heads
- Replace spark plugs and wires
- Clean TB, MAF, and Intake tube
- Startup and change oil

logsurfer

Hi tony, The fuel inlet looks bad. Try to find the other end of the line and unscrew it. Look online or go to the dships for the part. Was you trying to replace the fuel filter?

You're good with cleaning, just dont let debris fall in your engine. Also, Good call on the PCV, just make sure you have your black FIPG, VC washers, & gaskets.
Try to reuse your empty cereal boxes, works great! (Try at your own risk)

I'm sure you can do it or already did.

rworegon

Tony, what engine are you working on? 5vz-fe, 3.4L? Take a look at the FSM, because RTV sealant needs to go in certain places on the head before the valve cover is placed back down and tightened up.

See page EM-58:
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/2003/Repa...ylhea/inst.pdf

Spark plug tube gaskets EM-48 (I start on the opposite side of the tab and don't bend it up as the FSM calls for):
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/2003/Repa...ylhea/repl.pdf

Tony 03

Thank you both. Yes, I used a the FIPG... I was a bit liberal with it but in the correct areas.

Log - I twisted the line removing the fuel inlet hose to get better access to the drivers side cover. Cereal boxes? How so?

logsurfer

Have you found the part for the fuel pipe? Try the junkyard if you cant find a new one.

Ive used cereal boxes/cardboards for making throttle body gaskets and IM gaskets on an accord. I just traced the old one into the box and cut it. Sometimes I would double it, if it's not thick enough. I was being cheap and lazy so I improvised, but hey, it worked!