hey everyone,
some of you may have been answering my questions awhile ago (thanks). so i got the block bored (20 over) and hones and cleaned and primered with black engine enamel and new freeze plugs put in. i also got the crank ground and polished as well as new pistons (same rods) and stuff. so my first question is what type of engine oil should i use for my first run through, and when should i change it?

thanks all!

 

Pretty much any non-synthetic will work, even a straight weight oil. Run it for 500-1000 miles or so, drain and refill with something similar and run to the regular oil change interval. Once the engine breaks in, you can go to whatever oil you want to use for the long run.

 

i'd say go with 10w30 or good old straight 30. i ran 5w30 on the initial run and found it was too thin for my liking. i'm now running 15w40 diesel grade oil.

 

I ran the 15W40 universal (diesel or gas) oil in mine for breakin and I usually run that stuff afterwards, too.

 

isnt paint on the cylindr ewalls a bad thing? wont that break down all wierd?

 

i think he just painted the block black, i didn't see anything about cylinders? i dont think you'd want that stuff inside there either, might interfere with the rings seating.

black isn't my first choice of an engine paint color though -- it isn't as easy to spot a leak with like ford blue or chevy orange...

 

cool, thanks guys... what is the advantage of the 15w40 diesel grade oil?

and my machinist just put a black enamel on there to keep it from rusting after he hot tanked it becuase any protective coating on the block is gone. he said all i need to do is put any color i'd like on it now (probably chevy orange).
and the cylinder walls themselves are B A eutifully honed. might i recommend M&M cylinder heads and machining in hayward, ca (providing your in the bay area that is) they have dont my entire engine and the owner mike always throws in little extras here and there (like a can of mp grease & carb cleaner).

later all!

 

the 15w40 stuff just...well, works. i'm no oil expert, but it's what we run in our equipment at work with more than 2 cylinders, and it just works great.

 

From the reading I've done while searching info for rebuilding my 22re, 30 weight, straight or 10w non-synthetic, is the #1 answer. It is light enough it will let the rings seat while still supporting the rest of the engine internals. Run it around 300-500 miles then go to whatever weight you prefer.
I've always used a 40 weight since the 22re is a hard working engine.
Only other tip would be to use the cheapest 30 you can find for the first start up and running period then change the oil and the filter in case there may be any bits of metal floating around that were missed during assembly.

 

"use the cheapest oil you can find"

that's pretty much all i use! i look at the grade of the oil when i look at the price tag -- i don't buy fancy "4x4 and suv" oil, i just buy the lowest price with the highest standard. i think the current API standard is "SL".

though it is a very, very good idea to change your oil within the first few hundred miles of firing a fresh engine. mine looked pretty muddy, probably from a mix of the moly assembly lube i used, exhaust blowing past the rings before they seated, and other crud(hey, nobody's perfect!). i've got about 700 miles on the 15w40 now, and it still looks very good...

 

oh... sounds reasonable enough.
i decided to edit this post to say instead:
help! my crankshaft wont turn (as least not easily) after i installed it!
here is the specs. crank was ground and polished, i was supplied with oversize bearings for the crank, same thrust washers (believe these to be the culprit)these were all used during the install. i torqued my crankshaft bolts down to 80ft-lb instead of the factory recomended 76 ft-lb (should i not have done this? so should the crankshaft turn with little effort or should i only be able to turn it with the harmonic bolt in and cranking with a breaker bar?

thanks again everyone

 

further update:
i have narrowed the problem down to the thrust washers. they are either to big or im doing something wrong. it is the uppers for the most part. the crank shaft turns freely (by hand) when the #3 (thrust washer containing) main cap is not tightened down.

any suggestions?

 

I just had my 22RE rebuilt completely. I ran it 500 miles, changed the oil/filter and put in more dino 5w30 and at 3000 miles I'm switching to Royal Purple synthetic 5w30 as I can get it locally as cheap as the Mobil at Wally World, but they never have any in stock...

 

double check which thrust washer set you have! i know some(i think early motors) were thicker than the late ones...

mistakes happen, i was given a late main bearing set. just about had all the upper halves in when i went to put the #3 bearing in. the locator tang was offset a different way! i looked at the lower halves, and they all had the tang in the middle! turns out i had been given an '85-95 bearing set...

oh, and my main caps were torqued to 85lbs...but i used ARP studs