95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

TRD Tundra Front Lift UPDATE

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old May 15, 2006 | 06:41 AM
  #1  
bamachem's Avatar
Thread Starter
Banned
 
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 0
Likes: 1
TRD Tundra Front Lift UPDATE

I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND THE USE OF OME N91S STRUTS UP FRONT IN COMBINATION WITH AN ARB LOCKER WITHOUT SOME SORT OF LIMITING STRAPS. The locked front and excessive droop is a CV killer. I know because I broke two on Slickrock at Tellico about 30-minutes apart at SE4RJ3. If you have a front locker, or plan on running one, then you either need front limiting straps or you need to use the BLUE Tacoma TRD shocks or another Tokico alternative.

For use with a Front ARB Locker (ARB RD90):
2004 Toyota Tundra TRD 4WD Front Coil: 48131-AF090 - right - Blue + Yellow goes on the passenger side
2004 Toyota Tundra TRD 4WD Front Coil: 48131-AF100 - left - Yellow + Yellow goes on driver side
2004 Toyota TRD Tacoma Double Cab stock front shocks: 48510-A9160 - Tokico TRD Blue (TWO)
Sonoran Steel Fabrication L.L.C. Front differential drop spacers (TWO)
Sonoran Steel Fabrication L.L.C. 38mm Japanese made extended studs (SIX)
Bamachem 3/8" thick: 1/2" Lift HDPE Top Spacer (TWO)

Without a Front Locker:
OME N91S Struts are fine, but should be used with limiting straps if you plan on wheeling hard where possible overextension of the outer CV joint can be present while the drooped front wheel is under extreme torque.



that's all. i updated the original thread w/ this info and i just wanted to put this out there as a new topic to get the attention that it deserves.

the OME's are fine for open fronts and moderate wheeling. go to something more extreme with tons of skinny pedal or go to a locked front and you're asking for trouble when the fronts are drooped all the way out and can see torque.

Last edited by bamachem; May 15, 2006 at 06:43 AM.
Reply
Old May 15, 2006 | 07:02 AM
  #2  
oly884's Avatar
Guest
 
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 4,697
Likes: 0
Thanks for the update andy!

Hopefully sometime this summer I'll be getting the front set up.
Reply
Old May 15, 2006 | 12:17 PM
  #3  
Ric's Avatar
Ric
Banned - User requested
 
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,496
Likes: 0
From: earth
bamachem,
youdaman, thankx for letting us know
Reply
Old May 15, 2006 | 12:34 PM
  #4  
paddlenbike's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,190
Likes: 1
From: Northern CA
How is the ride with the Tacoma blue Tokicos?
Reply
Old May 15, 2006 | 02:29 PM
  #5  
RTdawgs's Avatar
Contributing Member
 
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,068
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta, GA
The biggest issue with CV joints breakage is bindage. This comes from shocks being too long and full steering lock in 4WD-Lo. This creates too much stress on the outboard CV joint and they will come out of the cage. A front locker causes this risk to multiply.

2 CV joints were broken in the exact situation this past weekend: 4WD-Lo with steering at full-lock [and both were in reverse]. Another was broken because the front locker atfull suspension drop (OME shocks) tore the CV joint from the cage.

Take it easy on the CV joints, especially if you have a front locker.
Reply
Old May 15, 2006 | 07:27 PM
  #6  
Stump1883's Avatar
Contributing Member
 
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,063
Likes: 0
From: High Point NC
We all learned ALOT this weekend needless to say, just in time for me personally. I was just getting ready to re-do/update my front suspension yet again. Too bad we have to admit the old man was right, yet again.
Reply
Old May 15, 2006 | 07:51 PM
  #7  
KyleT's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,080
Likes: 0
From: Fort Worth, TEXAS
Are you saying a double-diff-drop? running 2 spacers on each side?
Reply
Old May 15, 2006 | 08:18 PM
  #8  
Crux's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 842
Likes: 0
From: Castle Rock, CO
Not only that, but trying to get the whole assembly back together with the N91S shocks is a PITA since they are so long. I would hate to have to replace a CV on the trail with the longer OMEs and no floor jack.

Someday I'm going to upgrade to the blue tokico trds.
Reply
Old May 16, 2006 | 03:52 AM
  #9  
bamachem's Avatar
Thread Starter
Banned
 
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 0
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by RTdawgs
The biggest issue with CV joints breakage is bindage. This comes from shocks being too long and full steering lock in 4WD-Lo. This creates too much stress on the outboard CV joint and they will come out of the cage. A front locker causes this risk to multiply.

2 CV joints were broken in the exact situation this past weekend: 4WD-Lo with steering at full-lock [and both were in reverse]. Another was broken because the front locker atfull suspension drop (OME shocks) tore the CV joint from the cage.

Take it easy on the CV joints, especially if you have a front locker.
actually, when my pass front snapped, it wasn't at full lock, but close. also, it was clicking a little when i was coming up the rest of slickrock after the driver side snapped on the full droop. it was weakened, and probably had a cracked cage by the time i was trying to back up that hill w/ the wheel turned hard.


Originally Posted by KyleT
Are you saying a double-diff-drop? running 2 spacers on each side?
no... where did that come from? i have ONE top out spacer on each side. however, the OME's are SO LONG that w/ a locker, you will break CV's even without any spacers. just a fact of life. they give tons of droop, but that's not always a good thing.


Originally Posted by rocket
Will Bilsteins cause the same issue?
No, they're shorter by a good bit. However, if they're not the 2WD TRD Red Bilsteins from the Ivan Stewart package, then they're too stiff and the ride sucks.


Originally Posted by Crux
Not only that, but trying to get the whole assembly back together with the N91S shocks is a PITA since they are so long. I would hate to have to replace a CV on the trail with the longer OMEs and no floor jack.

Someday I'm going to upgrade to the blue tokico trds.
You simply don't do a trail repair. You do what I did - remove the sway bar end link, take a knife and cut both inner and outer boot, turn the wheel so that you have access from behind the arms (where the sway bar endlink is located) and then simply slide the center section out and continue on in "limp-home" mode. i lost both front CV's and was fine on a moderate trail w/ just the rear locked.
Reply
Old May 16, 2006 | 06:00 AM
  #10  
justinh's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,520
Likes: 1
From: woodstock, ga
Was your swaybar connected or disconnected when they broke?
Reply
Old May 16, 2006 | 07:12 AM
  #11  
bamachem's Avatar
Thread Starter
Banned
 
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 0
Likes: 1
connected. when connected, it will help to limit droop on an off-camber position. however, when going up a ledge (like i was) and you have both fronts on top w/ the breakover putting all the weight on the rear, they will BOTH extend to full droop (like mine did). at that point, the cage is taking all the stress of the springs pulling the axle stub against them and then you add the torque of the tires spinning on the rocks at the same rate (due to the locked front not distributing torque to the easiest to spin) and then add to that the fact that my uppers aren't trimmed and will rub at full droop, having the effect of riding the brake on the fronts to add even more torque.

in that particular situation, you begin to crack the cage. you will hear it faintly click as it begins to give up the ghost. it may not completely snap at that point, but it's on borrowed time (as my pass side was proven to be).

OME's aren't all that bad for moderate wheeling w/ an unlocked front, but when you lock the front and get excessive droop at the same time, then watch out...
Reply
Old May 16, 2006 | 07:34 AM
  #12  
noodle's Avatar
Contributing Member
20 Year Member
 
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
From: PA
Are there any better CV Shafts than OEM?
Reply
Old May 16, 2006 | 07:38 AM
  #13  
bamachem's Avatar
Thread Starter
Banned
 
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 0
Likes: 1
more discussion here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...5&page=4&pp=40

the only possible way to increase strength is to CRYO the OEM axles.
Reply
Old May 16, 2006 | 08:05 AM
  #14  
waskillywabbit's Avatar
Banned
iTrader: (-1)
 
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3
Likes: 20
What do I need a CV shaft for?

Reply
Old May 16, 2006 | 08:35 AM
  #15  
bamachem's Avatar
Thread Starter
Banned
 
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 0
Likes: 1
apparently you need one to wheel slickrock.
Reply
Old May 16, 2006 | 08:47 AM
  #16  
sschaefer3's Avatar
Contributing Member
 
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 5,278
Likes: 0
From: Tempe, Arizona
Duh, I told everyone this years ago..............
Reply
Old May 16, 2006 | 08:56 AM
  #17  
bamachem's Avatar
Thread Starter
Banned
 
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 0
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by sschaefer3
Duh, I told everyone this years ago..............
yeah, but you're the crotchity old man that nobody pays any attention to...
Reply
Old May 16, 2006 | 09:05 AM
  #18  
sschaefer3's Avatar
Contributing Member
 
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 5,278
Likes: 0
From: Tempe, Arizona
Originally Posted by bamachem
yeah, but you're the crotchity old man that nobody pays any attention to...
If they did, they would save themselves a lot of heart ache and grief. Honestly I post so rarely on here anymore, I'm still beyond slammed with work. Lift kits are flying out the door like mad and I have to make the locals wait for weeks or months to get in.

Apparently there are quite a few people that do pay attention to me. Getting a few days off to go to Tellico was quite a chore.

Back at it.......
Reply
Old May 16, 2006 | 09:07 AM
  #19  
bamachem's Avatar
Thread Starter
Banned
 
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 0
Likes: 1
yeah, and i had all intentions of changing out the fronts. too bad i couldn't find the time before you got here or i would have had the blues on there.
Reply
Old May 16, 2006 | 09:36 AM
  #20  
waskillywabbit's Avatar
Banned
iTrader: (-1)
 
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3
Likes: 20
Originally Posted by bamachem
apparently you need one to wheel slickrock.


Reply



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 03:08 PM.