Subject says it all...

1. Who here has done both the timing belt and the rear main seal? If not both, either one? (next question)

2. Did either job require any SST's? (special service tools) Or can I do it w/ my regular tools and my air tools?

3. How long did each/both take?

4. Anybody got any detail instructions, maybe online?

5. Please don't refer me to the FSM. I don't have one.

Jason

(yes, I'm about to undertake both.)

 

Oh, and in reference to the RMS (rear main seal) I think that's what's leaking... It's putting a small drip of oil around the tranny and oil pan... Any thoughts? Anybody know if it's typical of a rear main seal on a 3rd gen or should I be looking @ the oil pan seal? Thanks!

Jason

 

I suggest this little jewel

saves alot of time

 

The 3.4's hydraulic t-belt tensioner is quite annoying. Use a set of vise grips and clamp a neighboring stud to hold the tensioner in place. Remove the top t-belt idler and replace the belt. Put the top idler back on and everything should be lined up and release the tensioner. Rotate the engine a couple revolutions and check alignment again. If you bump the vise grips and they fall off you're boned into taking the tensioner off unless you have the SST.

 

Just as a tip...I thought mine was leaking at the rear main too, but it turned out that I had a slow leak at my driver's side valve cover, and it was leaking down the back of the block and dripping off the front of the tranny bellhousing. Just wanted to make sure you knew where it was coming from first...

 

I did mine without the tool and just unbolted the tensioner but I needed to remove the AC and it's brackets as well. If you have air tools it will be a piece of cake to take off the extra items.

I would definately check everything before doing a rear main seal.
It is quite common for a leaky valve cover (on the back of the engine) to fool you.
Use a mechanic's mirror to look at the back of the covers for leaks and save some headache if possible.

 

Thanks for all the tips guys. I was unaware of the valve cover leakage issues. My rig is a 96 and it goes in for the Head Gasket Recall soon too. It's got 180k on it, so thats why I automatically suspected the RMS. I'll look @ it w/ my mirrors later tonight.

 

If you're taking it to the dealer for the head gasket recall then just have them do the t-belt and FCS. They'll charge you about 0.5 - 1.0 hours to do it while they're in there. I'm a mechanic and I like to save a buck. But, I'd rather spare myself the time and have them do it. $70 labor for a t-belt and FCS, you can sign me up anyday.

 

If you're getting the recall you should be driving it like you STOLE it! MAKE the hg blow, even if you have to drain the coolant!
Then, go collect you free new motor.
I just got mine today