Texas_Ace's 2000 Supercharged 4Runner 2 years later Dyno, Meth injection +more power!
#122
Yeah it is not bad, whats funny is my MR2 goes faster in the 1/8th then my 4runner in the 1/4 mile (7.9 @ 91 is it's best time but it has trapped as high as 95mph in the 1/8th).
I was also impressed, course remeber that the g-tech is not 100% acturate on a truck like mine with soft suspension, but the stop watch and visually it is pretty darn close.
I was also impressed, course remeber that the g-tech is not 100% acturate on a truck like mine with soft suspension, but the stop watch and visually it is pretty darn close.
#123
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 12,009
Likes: 122
From: Northeast Pennsylvania
wow...that's all i can say. that, and holy crap...me likey.
and this video has been "favorited" by my son.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lLnFf...layer_embedded
and this video has been "favorited" by my son.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lLnFf...layer_embedded
#125
Well, another update.
I started really looking back over my logs from when i first got it running, and noticed a few oddball things. My boost is a fair amount lower now then it used to be.
I was getting about 8-9psi of boost when i first got it running but only making about 6.8psi last week.
Started looking around at all the normal places, boost leak tester, ect. found a few small things but nothing major and boost never really changed. So realyl started looking into it and noticed i was getting the tale tale "black dust" on the hood by the supercharger pulley.
The black dust that says you are getting belt slip. Did some research and decided to just try something for the heck of it, got some belt treatment at pepboys, the stuff that is supposed to stop belt squeaks ect. Sprayed it on there and sure enough, gained 1psi of boost instanty.
But i am still only in the high 7's for boost comared to the mid 8's when i first got it installed. I think i am still getting some belt slip though as boost drops off up top. So found that NAPA sells gates belts (one of the belt belts around) so i got a belt from them but it is too cold to install it yet, do that later next week.
Hopfully that fixes the problem and i get my boost back.
In other news i am offically in the market for a 2.0" or 2.1" pulley, or i can trade my 2.2" for it if you want. Oh and also for a known good dynamic tenshioner since i think it might be part of the problem as well.
If anyone has any other ideas on where my lost boost might be going, i am open to suggestions as well. I figure i should be between 8-9psi holding flat to redline with my mods on a 2.2". Already feels faster with the belt treatment, i would love to get it up to about ~11-12psi.
I started really looking back over my logs from when i first got it running, and noticed a few oddball things. My boost is a fair amount lower now then it used to be.
I was getting about 8-9psi of boost when i first got it running but only making about 6.8psi last week.
Started looking around at all the normal places, boost leak tester, ect. found a few small things but nothing major and boost never really changed. So realyl started looking into it and noticed i was getting the tale tale "black dust" on the hood by the supercharger pulley.
The black dust that says you are getting belt slip. Did some research and decided to just try something for the heck of it, got some belt treatment at pepboys, the stuff that is supposed to stop belt squeaks ect. Sprayed it on there and sure enough, gained 1psi of boost instanty.
But i am still only in the high 7's for boost comared to the mid 8's when i first got it installed. I think i am still getting some belt slip though as boost drops off up top. So found that NAPA sells gates belts (one of the belt belts around) so i got a belt from them but it is too cold to install it yet, do that later next week.
Hopfully that fixes the problem and i get my boost back.
In other news i am offically in the market for a 2.0" or 2.1" pulley, or i can trade my 2.2" for it if you want. Oh and also for a known good dynamic tenshioner since i think it might be part of the problem as well.
If anyone has any other ideas on where my lost boost might be going, i am open to suggestions as well. I figure i should be between 8-9psi holding flat to redline with my mods on a 2.2". Already feels faster with the belt treatment, i would love to get it up to about ~11-12psi.
#126
This is a very real option for those wanting to install a supercharger, a meth kit with a nozzle around 7gph and a nice progressive controller is easily tunable with the contorller/pump pressure/nozzle size/mixture of water & meth, to handle the demands on a stock setup and with a better controller i bet i could even make it work on my 2.2 pulley and headers setup.
I did get a URD 7th injector setup along with a water/meth kit. I have a couple concerns, the biggest of which is how it'll do when I change elevations significantly and don't have the opportunity to tune the water/meth kit. Being in CO I could be at 10,000 feet or 2,000 feet with only a couple hours driving in either direction.
So my water/meth kit is similar to mt_goat's setup with the aquamist race pump, but with a URD water/meth/7th inj controller that I going to try and tune.
I might go the 2.1"/2.0" pulley at some point too, but seriously I'll buy your 2.2" if you're looking to change. (yes same longroad on customtacos)
You could try contacting this guy and see if he'll part with the 2.0", worth a shot.
http://tucson.craigslist.org/pts/2130379846.html
#127
What meth kit are you going to use?
Like i was saying for a basic stock setup a basic meth kit would work but for a better SC setup a better meth kit is needed. I would get an aquamist personally they are tuneable and you could easily use it in place of the 7th kit even with a smaller pulley.
The nice thing about meth when you spray quite a bit of it is it makes it very hard for the truck to knock and lowers EGT's a TON (water lowers EGT's even more) so even if the tune leaned out some the chances of it causing damage it next to nothing. On my setup while tuning it got as lean as 14:1 a few times and not a bit of knock.
the stock ECU will adjust it's tune some for the elevation changes which should take care of most of the tuning. just tune it a bit rich while up high and when you come back down low you should be fine. It will take a little time to get the tune setup right naturally like any car in your area but once tuned you should be fine.
Meth is real nice since it gives you a very large safty margin when it comes to tuning. Using some water with it will also give you further knock surpression and lower EGT's but too much water and it will bog slightly.
I have seen cars run at 14.7:1 AFR's under full power with just water injection (and a small nozzle at that) with no knock and safe EGT's to give you an example of how wide the safty margin is. The most important thing is to make sure that it is spraying.
Good tip on the 2.0 pulley, gonna see if he will sell it. Anyone know what the idler pulley in the picture is? never seen that before, i want to add an extra idler to my truck to help the belt slip and that looks just like what i was thinking of making.
Like i was saying for a basic stock setup a basic meth kit would work but for a better SC setup a better meth kit is needed. I would get an aquamist personally they are tuneable and you could easily use it in place of the 7th kit even with a smaller pulley.
The nice thing about meth when you spray quite a bit of it is it makes it very hard for the truck to knock and lowers EGT's a TON (water lowers EGT's even more) so even if the tune leaned out some the chances of it causing damage it next to nothing. On my setup while tuning it got as lean as 14:1 a few times and not a bit of knock.
the stock ECU will adjust it's tune some for the elevation changes which should take care of most of the tuning. just tune it a bit rich while up high and when you come back down low you should be fine. It will take a little time to get the tune setup right naturally like any car in your area but once tuned you should be fine.
Meth is real nice since it gives you a very large safty margin when it comes to tuning. Using some water with it will also give you further knock surpression and lower EGT's but too much water and it will bog slightly.
I have seen cars run at 14.7:1 AFR's under full power with just water injection (and a small nozzle at that) with no knock and safe EGT's to give you an example of how wide the safty margin is. The most important thing is to make sure that it is spraying.
Good tip on the 2.0 pulley, gonna see if he will sell it. Anyone know what the idler pulley in the picture is? never seen that before, i want to add an extra idler to my truck to help the belt slip and that looks just like what i was thinking of making.
#128
Hey, thanks for the heads up on the URD 2.0 pulley! I just talked to him and he went ahead and sold it to me for $60, not bad at all!
Nice guy, he is deploying to the sandbox in a few weeks so keep him in your prayers as well.
Still curious what that idler pulley thing is, it looks exactly like what i would going to build myself. Anyone know what the part number for it is?
Nice guy, he is deploying to the sandbox in a few weeks so keep him in your prayers as well.
Still curious what that idler pulley thing is, it looks exactly like what i would going to build myself. Anyone know what the part number for it is?
#129
The pulley bracket he has in the box is the fixed one, Gadget has a pic of it on his site. Toyota doesn't sell it anymore, they only have the tensioner setup.
http://www.gadgetonline.com/Tensioner.htm
Glad to see you got the pulley at a good price, craigslist is the best!
I'm not sure what kit I have for water/meth, I bought it used, I know its a few years old b/c the controller isn't sold anymore. This is what the controller looks like...

and this is my pump...
http://www.gadgetonline.com/Tensioner.htm
Glad to see you got the pulley at a good price, craigslist is the best!
I'm not sure what kit I have for water/meth, I bought it used, I know its a few years old b/c the controller isn't sold anymore. This is what the controller looks like...

and this is my pump...
#130
The pulley bracket he has in the box is the fixed one, Gadget has a pic of it on his site. Toyota doesn't sell it anymore, they only have the tensioner setup.
http://www.gadgetonline.com/Tensioner.htm
Glad to see you got the pulley at a good price, craigslist is the best!
I'm not sure what kit I have for water/meth, I bought it used, I know its a few years old b/c the controller isn't sold anymore. This is what the controller looks like...

and this is my pump...

http://www.gadgetonline.com/Tensioner.htm
Glad to see you got the pulley at a good price, craigslist is the best!
I'm not sure what kit I have for water/meth, I bought it used, I know its a few years old b/c the controller isn't sold anymore. This is what the controller looks like...

and this is my pump...

Hmm, i want to find one of those old versions so i can make up a custom idler pulley to help the contact patch.
Yeah, i am glad i got the pulley too, thanks for the heads up! My URD 2.2" pulley will be for sale as soon as i get the 2.0 in and test it out.
No clue what kit that is, looks like something URD did, i can tell you i would NOT use that pump, that is the old style Aquamist pump, the one that is well known to go out and is not meth compatible.
The shurflow pumps are FAR FAR better. No idea what the controller is so can't comment on it. I do know the new Aquamists that come with the Shurflo pump are great, i wish i had one. the HFS series.
Last edited by Texas_Ace; Jan 3, 2011 at 03:31 PM.
#131
In other news, i also found that you can get a replacement Dynamic tensioner for $40 vs the $300 toyota wants to charge you.
Gadget tipped me off that the tensioner is really just a datco part number, so started tracking it down and found this.
Just got back from checking the Tensioner out at o-rilleys and it is the correct model!
They had gates version of it so it looked a little differnt thent he dyco but all the important stuff was in the correct places, same exact bolt hole spacing, pin placement, ect.


Also found the pulley you would need is a 76mm x 31mm pulley since it comes with a ribbed pulley.
Both of them come out to $40 shipped on amazon, HECK of a lot better then $300 from Toyota IMO.
Tensioner:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C0YRA2/ref=ord_cart_shr?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Pulley:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C0YR1G/ref=ord_cart_shr?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER
I just placed my order, i will update when i get them in. After taking mine off i am pretty sure it is worn.
Gadget tipped me off that the tensioner is really just a datco part number, so started tracking it down and found this.
Just got back from checking the Tensioner out at o-rilleys and it is the correct model!
They had gates version of it so it looked a little differnt thent he dyco but all the important stuff was in the correct places, same exact bolt hole spacing, pin placement, ect.
Also found the pulley you would need is a 76mm x 31mm pulley since it comes with a ribbed pulley.
Both of them come out to $40 shipped on amazon, HECK of a lot better then $300 from Toyota IMO.
Tensioner:
Pulley:
I just placed my order, i will update when i get them in. After taking mine off i am pretty sure it is worn.
Last edited by Texas_Ace; Jan 3, 2011 at 03:29 PM.
#132
Wow! good to know about that tensioner, I hope mine never fails but if it does it is nice to know I have options...
thanks for posting that up with pics TA
still haven't got around to playing with my 7gph nozzles yet, just redid my AC system this weekend instead...
thanks for posting that up with pics TA
still haven't got around to playing with my 7gph nozzles yet, just redid my AC system this weekend instead...
#133
Still a very good deal compared to a new Toyota unit when it is the exact same part.
I am looking forward to the 2.0 pulley and fixing my belt slip, ~7psi to ~12psi should be lots of fun!
#135
#136
Look what showed up in the mail today!

Tensioner might show up tomorrow, if so then i can try it out! I want to try the tensioner with the 2.2 pulley i have now since i know exactly what the boost is while slipping and will know if it helps any. Then swap pulleys.
Will keep you updated.
Tensioner might show up tomorrow, if so then i can try it out! I want to try the tensioner with the 2.2 pulley i have now since i know exactly what the boost is while slipping and will know if it helps any. Then swap pulleys.
Will keep you updated.
#137
Nice.
I've enjoyed reading through this thread greatly. A big reason why is because I have a first gen charger on the way to me which I'm really looking forward to receiving. These trucks are adequate but slow up here at altitude.
I think I'm going to just install the charger with the stock pulley and use a water/methanol injection system for cooling and knock control. I'll ask questions in your thread about water/meth injection.
What did you use for your pillar gauge pod? The Lotek? Know a good source for a boost gauge (mech) and a/f ratio? I'm thinking a/f ratio vs. pyrometer as I don't want to weld a bung in my exhaust manifold.
I've enjoyed reading through this thread greatly. A big reason why is because I have a first gen charger on the way to me which I'm really looking forward to receiving. These trucks are adequate but slow up here at altitude.
I think I'm going to just install the charger with the stock pulley and use a water/methanol injection system for cooling and knock control. I'll ask questions in your thread about water/meth injection.
What did you use for your pillar gauge pod? The Lotek? Know a good source for a boost gauge (mech) and a/f ratio? I'm thinking a/f ratio vs. pyrometer as I don't want to weld a bung in my exhaust manifold.
#138
Nice.
I've enjoyed reading through this thread greatly. A big reason why is because I have a first gen charger on the way to me which I'm really looking forward to receiving. These trucks are adequate but slow up here at altitude.
I think I'm going to just install the charger with the stock pulley and use a water/methanol injection system for cooling and knock control. I'll ask questions in your thread about water/meth injection.
What did you use for your pillar gauge pod? The Lotek? Know a good source for a boost gauge (mech) and a/f ratio? I'm thinking a/f ratio vs. pyrometer as I don't want to weld a bung in my exhaust manifold.
I've enjoyed reading through this thread greatly. A big reason why is because I have a first gen charger on the way to me which I'm really looking forward to receiving. These trucks are adequate but slow up here at altitude.
I think I'm going to just install the charger with the stock pulley and use a water/methanol injection system for cooling and knock control. I'll ask questions in your thread about water/meth injection.
What did you use for your pillar gauge pod? The Lotek? Know a good source for a boost gauge (mech) and a/f ratio? I'm thinking a/f ratio vs. pyrometer as I don't want to weld a bung in my exhaust manifold.
I also uploaded a copy of the 1st gen SC manual to another thread as well you might like, just search through my threads.
After reading those threads you should have a pretty good idea what you are getting into but feel free to ask whatever questions you want here or in the meth injection thread i made. Or go make your own thread and post a link here so i will see it. doesn't really matter to me.
For your questions you have now.
Stock pulley is a great starting point, it is easy to toss a smaller one on later, see how things work with the stock one before moving on is a wise idea.
Gauge pod is a universal unit from Glowshift. I love glowshift, all my gauges are from them except my wideband and i have had no issues with them at all. They are cheap and work great.
Wideband has a few options depending on how much you want to spend, on the cheap side is the AEM like i have, it works ok but it doesn't have built in logging, the O2 sensor is pricey and it can't be calibrated. Other then that it has worked fine for me.
You also have a few cheap options that were released at SEMA this year that look cool, check out innovate they have some nice stuff although it costs a bit more and there are some other options as well depending on your budget.
Do you already have a meth kit? if not know which one you are getting? if you will be using meth only for the extra fuel it is worth it to spend some of the money you save from the URD 7th on a better meth kit.
#139
Today i swapped my old belt for a new Gates/NAPA belt to see if that did anything for the belt slip. Belt was not the problem, it is not slipping worse and i lost a little boost. Oh well this belt feels better and the old one was stretched. After this belt breaks in i bet it will hold at least as well.
So that leaves the tensioner, hopefully it shows up tomorrow and i will swap that out and see what happens.
While i was checking for boost leaks i actually found a vacuum leak due to hole in the supercharger housing itself, thats a new one. I used some JB weld to seal it up, hopefully it holds.
Supercharger looks good inside as well. I also found my FPR line had come undone at some point, would explain some odditys i had while tuning, reconnected that and things are much better.
So tomorrow i will hopfully see what the tensioner does and then the 2.0 pulley!
So that leaves the tensioner, hopefully it shows up tomorrow and i will swap that out and see what happens.
While i was checking for boost leaks i actually found a vacuum leak due to hole in the supercharger housing itself, thats a new one. I used some JB weld to seal it up, hopefully it holds.
Supercharger looks good inside as well. I also found my FPR line had come undone at some point, would explain some odditys i had while tuning, reconnected that and things are much better.
So tomorrow i will hopfully see what the tensioner does and then the 2.0 pulley!
#140
In other news i have been looking into nitormethane as an additive for the meth injection kit. From my searching it seems to work good in small amounts, Snow actually sells it and they said they make 30-50hp on just about any car with it. Those claims are a bit high but after doing some research i bet it does give a nice gain.
It is almost 50% oxygen so it kinda acts like a bit like Nitrous in it adds a lot more oxygen to the combustion chamber and allows for more power.
But like nitrous it is also something you have to be careful with, too much of it and things will go boom.
Snow uses a mixture of ~13% nitro in their kits and they say it is safe for the pumps/lines/fittings and also safe for the car. While adding 30-50hp according to them.
They said they have used up to a 100% nitro in the kit but that was too much and the engine did not like it (although it didn't blow) up to 50% it was not that bad but they said they would not go above ~25%.
I am very interested in how this stuff would work, i know that drag cars that use it make massive power but it is also very hard to do.
For example, a normal car running on gas will have combustion pressures of around ~1500psi but the same car running on nitro on the other hand will have pressures of around 4500+psi which means a LOT more power. 350hp+ per cylinder is not unheard of on nitro even NA.
So the math says it will work, just a matter of getting some nitro to play with, not the easiest stuff to find. Not sure if i can get RC car fuel without the oils? It comes pre-mixed with ~20% but it also has oils in it.
Would be cool to get a nitrous style boost in power from the meth kit through for those times at the track ect. It is not for everyday driving that is for sure.
I plan to look into this further and will update with what i find.
It is almost 50% oxygen so it kinda acts like a bit like Nitrous in it adds a lot more oxygen to the combustion chamber and allows for more power.
But like nitrous it is also something you have to be careful with, too much of it and things will go boom.
Snow uses a mixture of ~13% nitro in their kits and they say it is safe for the pumps/lines/fittings and also safe for the car. While adding 30-50hp according to them.
They said they have used up to a 100% nitro in the kit but that was too much and the engine did not like it (although it didn't blow) up to 50% it was not that bad but they said they would not go above ~25%.
I am very interested in how this stuff would work, i know that drag cars that use it make massive power but it is also very hard to do.
For example, a normal car running on gas will have combustion pressures of around ~1500psi but the same car running on nitro on the other hand will have pressures of around 4500+psi which means a LOT more power. 350hp+ per cylinder is not unheard of on nitro even NA.
So the math says it will work, just a matter of getting some nitro to play with, not the easiest stuff to find. Not sure if i can get RC car fuel without the oils? It comes pre-mixed with ~20% but it also has oils in it.
Would be cool to get a nitrous style boost in power from the meth kit through for those times at the track ect. It is not for everyday driving that is for sure.
I plan to look into this further and will update with what i find.



