Jayota

KZN. I can really understand your frustrations since I went through the same thing. In the end I had to decipher this thread. There is one wire left over which is to for the ECT.

For the security light, I ordered a LED relay which came with a “none blinking” LED light which I threw away. The relay controlled the blinking and detected when ignition is off. I hooked it up directly to the OEM LED in the panel and the 12V outlet to detect when ignition is off. The LED blinked quite rapidly when the ignition was off. I then bought a “self blinking” LED light and hooked it up inline. This LED light also blinked quite rapidly, however when installed after the relay and in (Series) sequence to the OEM LED light it managed to slow down the blinking to almost a OEM pulse. Still works fine to this day.

I did not bother with the passenger side seatbelt indicator. There is no Air Bag indicator in the 99’ bezel.

KZN185W

iTrader: (1)

Jayota,

Thank you for the input. I thought the "PASSENGER" was for the passenger side airbag. Thanks for the correction.

KZN185W

iTrader: (1)

Just updating this thread.

I had looked at the 1998 EWD for the rear defogger and compared it with that of a 1999-2002 EWD. With reference to the soldering work shown in this other thread, https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/t...h-bezel-43660/, I was able to reduce the number of solders to only three wires -- (W-B), (LG-R), & (LG-B). The other wires, (G), (W-G), & (B-Y), need not be soldered. The old ECT switch has the last three wires and can be directly connected to the C23 connector socket.

Also, to keep the connection clean, you can cut off the trapezoidal switch and remove the two light bulbs. You'll be left with the spring-loaded flat plastic thing that can be pushed into the switch casing. Leave it un-pushed as it makes the new defogger switch locked in the ON position.

The passenger switch is linked to a pressure sensor in the passenger seat. I didn't bother working on that. Maybe later on.

4Runner4Leon

That is indeed the case. Here is all you need to solder, three wires total:



I decided to solder the LG-B jumper on a more accessible part of the circuit board that was still electrically connected to the terminal of interest. It gave me more room for soldering errors. Here is how I soldered the three jumpers:



Here is a comprehensive tutorial I wrote up on this swap:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...-tutorial.html