Steering rack replacement questions

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Apr 8, 2007 | 07:32 AM

#21

Ironmike4x4

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From: Upsate SC

Quote:

Originally Posted by aowRS

Mike,
My method was to center the steering wheel (with the truck on four jack stands), tie the wheel off securely to the A-pillar grab handles and then measure the distance between the rear steering stops and the end link mount area. I did this with a metal ruler for both sides to ensure consistency.

After removing the old rack, I placed it on the floor and staightened the outer tie rods. Then I used a 90* angle and made marks on the floor. Using these marks, I was able to adjust the new rack and outer tie rods to the same general length, with equal threads on both sides. Then I partially re-installed the rack and used the exposed splined shaft to gently adjust it side-to-side until the ball joints met up with the steering knuckles. I re-installed the coupler, the hydraulic lines and snugged the rack back into place. Then I took my initial measurements and slightly adjusted the outer tire rods until I had the same distances again. After finishing the rest of the job, the steering wheel was straight and the truck drove great. I must have done something right

The job was far more difficult than this simple write-up suggests.

Andreas

I must say I'm highly impressed and will do this next time I do one at work. It sounds much easier than what I said. Thumbs up to ya! The one I did was on a POS AVEO with so much suspension squeaks and squeals that I quit the suspension line and went to driveability issues.

Apr 8, 2007 | 07:33 AM

#22

Gerdo

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From: SouthWest Littleton, Colorado

It deffinitly isn't a few hour job. The second time around for me took half the time the first did. Good job.

Apr 9, 2007 | 05:25 AM

#23

aowRS

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From: Ellicott City, MD

Gerdo,
Thanks again for ther pointers. I actualy slipped a disc in my lower back a few minutes after getting the truck up on four jack stands. It felt as if someone shot me in the back with a 10 gauge shotgun. After 30 minutes of crouching motionless on the garage floor, I bucked up and started the entire job. Misery would be an understatement.

Andreas

Apr 9, 2007 | 08:11 AM

#24

Starbuck3733T

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Joined: Feb 2007

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From: State College, PA

Damn dude... Get to a chiropractor STAT. I know one near hazelton, PA that is a low-impact (meaning not cracking "ouch") miracle worker.

Apr 9, 2007 | 08:14 AM

#25

aowRS

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From: Ellicott City, MD

Starbuck,
I appreciate the thoughts. I've dealt with this many times and have also undergone lower back surgery for a ruptured disc 15 years ago. It's tough getting old!

Andreas

Apr 9, 2007 | 01:14 PM

#26

solarae

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Joined: May 2006

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From: Behind the Redwood Curtain

Where did you get the new rack for $700? I thought they were around $850. Does anyone have a comment on the official Toyota reman rack? My good friend and front end mechanic advised me to stay away from the remans but I thought Toyota might have a decent product now. TIA, Edy

Apr 9, 2007 | 02:42 PM

#27

aowRS

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From: Ellicott City, MD

Quote:

Originally Posted by solarae

Edy,
I ordered the new rack from Texas Toyota of Grapevine (http://www.toyota-parts.com/). My contact there has been Jim Ubinger (JUbinger@vtaig.com). He's been great to deal with and got the rack to me when it was promised. I've ordered other parts from him before because the parts department at my local Toyota dealership is less competant than a herd of water buffalo.

I can check my invoice but think it was $720 or so. While remanufactured would have been less, I did not want to chance the possibility that the guy assigned to rebuild the rack had a crappy day.

Let me know if you want more specifics (part number, exact price, etc.)

Andreas

Apr 9, 2007 | 03:24 PM

#28

midiwall

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Joined: Dec 2002

Posts: 9,048

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From: Seattleish, WA

Quote:

Originally Posted by aowRS

"Dr. Zhivago" mentioned this a long time ago. I've tried contacting him to confirm this and never heard back.

Galen's been off of the forum and the 'Net in general for quite some time.

One thing to add for future readers... If you're doing this on a lifted rig, and you've done the "diff drop" mod, you'll have to pull those bolts in order to get the long mounting bolt on the passenger side out of the rack.

BE CAREFUL - keep in mind what you're letting loose when you pull the "diff drop" bolts! (it's the whole front diff).

Apr 10, 2007 | 05:22 PM

#29

aowRS

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From: Ellicott City, MD

Update

I took the truck in for its post-surgery alignment today. What should have been an hour or two at the most turned into nearly NINE HOURS! The left front adjuster bolt had welded itself to the adjuster nut. Three guys spent hours getting the bolt removed. Once it came out, the threads were completely gone. I then had to wait four hours until the new bolt, sleeve, and nut came in from the nearest Toyota dealer. In the end, they were able to get everything set correctly and it drives great. I watched every move they made like a hawk....

Very, very frustrating, but these things happen. I've always sprayed exposed threads with Boeshield whenever I was under the truck, but something like this is pretty much unavoidable.