pepsilvr

I'm about to replace the steering rack on my '97 4runner. I already did the bushings a while back so I'm familiar with how it comes out, etc. but never removed the rack completely.

My questions is (I did search) do you have to remove the steering wheel to do this? The FSM says to remove it, but I would think one could get away without going through that trouble. Wouldn't you just secure the steering wheel so it doesn't spin and loosen / remove the coupler connecting the shaft to the rack?

Has anyone done this before? Any tips/ hints? Thanks in advance for any help.

toyotabull

Remove the steering wheel? I dont think so, but mark your steering shaft and coupling with a marker or paint stick so you can line up the next one going in and hopefully not have to straiten up the steering wheel

BajaRunner

Nah you do not have to remove the steering wheel.

Remove the two bolts at the lower rag joint from the steering shaft (that connects the steering wheel to the rack).

Remove your tie rods using a tie rod puller

Remove your bolts and its out!

pepsilvr

That's what I thought. Thanks for confirming everyone!

Godzilla

Dont forget the two PS fluid lines!

BajaRunner

Ha! Good call! Get a drain pan under there. A good amount does spill out.

Bleeding the system after the new rack is in there just requires you to go from full lock to full lock a few times till it starts sounding normal again

pepsilvr

Alright, almost got the rack out before it got dark I'm just having one problem.

I got the pressure return tube ( the straight one) off by removing the hose and unscrewing it.

I can't seem to get the pressure feed tube off though (I'm talking about the "S" shaped one) When I turn the nut the whole tube wants to turn too. Is this right or should it work more like a brake line where the nut turns independently of the tube? In either case, I can't figure out how to get the hose off of the tube either. The return tube had a spring clip but the feed tube hose looks like it's crimped onto the tube.

Any help is appreciated!

BajaRunner

Yeah well you dont want to remove the tube from the pressure line. Its got a LOT of pressure and you'll never get it sealed again unless you take to a speciality shop.

Any way to possibly throw some vice grips on the unwanted moving section? Make sure you spray down with PB blaster too.

pepsilvr

Thanks I'll give that a try. I sprayed it down with PB before I gave in for the night. I'll let it soak in and try again tomorrow. Thanks for the quick reply!

pepsilvr

Alright, got everything done yesterday... those feed and return lines are really a pain! Anyway, one final question. My steering wheel is a little crooked - about 1/8 turn off (not too bad) I'm assuming this is something that can be fixed with an alignment, right? I planned on getting one anyway because the tie rod change that was done with the new rack.

Godzilla

Yes, it ill be adjusted / corrected with an alignment

BillF

This is a timely thread.

On the weekend, my neighbour, who has a 2000 4Runner, asked if I would help him change his steering rack. The Toyota dealer quoted him $1300.

I have two requests:

1. Where can he buy the rack at a reasonable price in Canada?
2. Could someone post or email me the schematic from the factory service manual that shows the torque specs for the various fasteners?

pepsilvr

>> Factory Service Manuals Link <<

TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS
Bearing Guide Nut 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.)
Gear Assembly Set Bolt:
Bolt A 165 Nm (123 ft. lbs.)
Bolt B 190 Nm (141 ft. lbs.)
Bolt C 165 Nm (123 ft. lbs.)
Pressure Tubes 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.)
Return Tube 40 Nm (29 ft. lbs.)
Spring Cap Lock Nut 51 Nm (38 ft. lbs.)
Tie Rod End Lock Nuts 55 Nm (41 ft. lbs.)