Starter Issues Need Help ASAP!!
07-27-2007, 06:09 AM
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Starter Issues Need Help ASAP!!
Okay guys, I was returning from my vacay in South Carolina last nite/ this morning. Been driving for roughly 4 hours with two restroom stops, no issues.
Then i stopped about 1:30am at a BP about 40 miles south of ATL, filled up the Taco, and went to crank it up, it turned over MAYBE half a revolution, tough to tell, then the starter just clicks. Not like dead battery clicking, but LOUD fast clicking.
Knowing I have heard of this type of issue being solved with the proper application of sudden force (Read: Hit it with a BFH) - I tried it out with my 4 cell mag, which is tough to swing in the engine bay, but alsa, and unsurprisingly, no dice, still clicking.
Thinking perhaps the Bendix or some other oddly named part was stuck in the starter somewhere, I decided to try to jolt the tranny and flywheel/starter.
I get Cort in the driver seat, put it in neutral, and puch her off a little bit, get it going 3-4 mph, and have Cort snatch it into Drive. My thoughts were the truck would lurch to a stop, and jolt the stuck starter...as it turns out, the truck does not stop (any ideas on this?? I thought it should have) but continues to roll as normal, she hits the brakes (having also expected the truck to stop) and I had her put it in park, and try to start it, sluggish, but it started. I drove it another hour home, backed it into the driveway, and turned it off, tried to start it, it started 18 times in a row. a little sluggish each time, and a little time to start each time, but it did start, I didnt risk driving it to the office today though, I drove her truck, but I would really like to get on this ASAP, so any ideas? suggestions?
Starter Contacts?
Bad Starter?
Also any ideas on why the truck didnt stop when pulled into drive? Or am I just wrong in thinking it should have?
Thanks guys!!
-Chris
Then i stopped about 1:30am at a BP about 40 miles south of ATL, filled up the Taco, and went to crank it up, it turned over MAYBE half a revolution, tough to tell, then the starter just clicks. Not like dead battery clicking, but LOUD fast clicking.
Knowing I have heard of this type of issue being solved with the proper application of sudden force (Read: Hit it with a BFH) - I tried it out with my 4 cell mag, which is tough to swing in the engine bay, but alsa, and unsurprisingly, no dice, still clicking.
Thinking perhaps the Bendix or some other oddly named part was stuck in the starter somewhere, I decided to try to jolt the tranny and flywheel/starter.
I get Cort in the driver seat, put it in neutral, and puch her off a little bit, get it going 3-4 mph, and have Cort snatch it into Drive. My thoughts were the truck would lurch to a stop, and jolt the stuck starter...as it turns out, the truck does not stop (any ideas on this?? I thought it should have) but continues to roll as normal, she hits the brakes (having also expected the truck to stop) and I had her put it in park, and try to start it, sluggish, but it started. I drove it another hour home, backed it into the driveway, and turned it off, tried to start it, it started 18 times in a row. a little sluggish each time, and a little time to start each time, but it did start, I didnt risk driving it to the office today though, I drove her truck, but I would really like to get on this ASAP, so any ideas? suggestions?
Starter Contacts?
Bad Starter?
Also any ideas on why the truck didnt stop when pulled into drive? Or am I just wrong in thinking it should have?
Thanks guys!!
-Chris
07-27-2007, 06:13 AM
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when that happened to me it was the battery. it showed 12v across the posts but when i took it in for testing it showed it was bad. could also be the cotacts at the same time. try taking the battery to get tested first since thats a much easier removal.
07-27-2007, 06:39 AM
#4
its the battery, or cables for sure. The rapid clicking is the starter trying to find voltage to turn the engine over.
It's not the starter. Take your truck to any Schucks, Autozone, etc and have them test the electrical system. They will be able to tell you for 100% sure whats wrong with her.
It's not the starter. Take your truck to any Schucks, Autozone, etc and have them test the electrical system. They will be able to tell you for 100% sure whats wrong with her.
07-27-2007, 06:40 AM
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i thought mine was good too seeing as how my voltage was 12 across the terminals but thats what it ended up being. i replaced my starter too but in hindsight, i probably didnt need to do that. by the time i figured that out it was too late. start with the cheap/easy
07-27-2007, 06:42 AM
#6
btw you cant compression start an automatic. It will just roll no matter what gear you put it in.
When you compression start a truck, you bypass the starter anyways. On 5sp trucks, it forces the rotating assembly to turn becuase its all engaged once the clutch it out and its in gear.
When you compression start a truck, you bypass the starter anyways. On 5sp trucks, it forces the rotating assembly to turn becuase its all engaged once the clutch it out and its in gear.
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07-27-2007, 06:42 AM
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btw you cant compression start an automatic. It will just roll no matter what gear you put it in.
When you compression start a truck, you bypass the starter anyways. On 5sp trucks, it forces the rotating assembly to turn becuase its all engaged once the clutch it out and its in gear.
When you compression start a truck, you bypass the starter anyways. On 5sp trucks, it forces the rotating assembly to turn becuase its all engaged once the clutch it out and its in gear.
I wasnt even considering trying to start it that way, just trying to jar the starter, and put it in park, and try again....exactly like we did, I just thought that it should have stopped in gear...
Last edited by 04 Rocko Taco; 07-27-2007 at 06:51 AM.
07-27-2007, 06:47 AM
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btw you cant compression start an automatic. It will just roll no matter what gear you put it in.
When you compression start a truck, you bypass the starter anyways. On 5sp trucks, it forces the rotating assembly to turn becuase its all engaged once the clutch it out and its in gear.
When you compression start a truck, you bypass the starter anyways. On 5sp trucks, it forces the rotating assembly to turn becuase its all engaged once the clutch it out and its in gear.
07-27-2007, 07:38 AM
#10
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you cant pucs start an auto becuase the fluid is not pumping to run the system and therefore -->no torque converter lock-up or clutch pack lock-up. I think it was either old Chevy's or Dodges that had a fluid pump in the rear. got them going fast enough and they would operate and start.
So basically--Metaphorically speaking--the hydralic system is the clutch and it was never let out--No gears connected to the drive train since the pump runs off the engine-->no lock-up of either the TC or Clutch pack.
Oh forgot--when you get the battery tested make sure they do a load test--this will test whethe the battery can sustain the power needed to operate the starter.
So basically--Metaphorically speaking--the hydralic system is the clutch and it was never let out--No gears connected to the drive train since the pump runs off the engine-->no lock-up of either the TC or Clutch pack.
Oh forgot--when you get the battery tested make sure they do a load test--this will test whethe the battery can sustain the power needed to operate the starter.
Last edited by hross14; 07-27-2007 at 07:40 AM. Reason: for got to add something
07-27-2007, 10:38 AM
#13
you cant pucs start an auto becuase the fluid is not pumping to run the system and therefore -->no torque converter lock-up or clutch pack lock-up. I think it was either old Chevy's or Dodges that had a fluid pump in the rear. got them going fast enough and they would operate and start.
So basically--Metaphorically speaking--the hydralic system is the clutch and it was never let out--No gears connected to the drive train since the pump runs off the engine-->no lock-up of either the TC or Clutch pack.
Oh forgot--when you get the battery tested make sure they do a load test--this will test whethe the battery can sustain the power needed to operate the starter.
So basically--Metaphorically speaking--the hydralic system is the clutch and it was never let out--No gears connected to the drive train since the pump runs off the engine-->no lock-up of either the TC or Clutch pack.
Oh forgot--when you get the battery tested make sure they do a load test--this will test whethe the battery can sustain the power needed to operate the starter.
When you put the truck in park, there is a mechanism that locked the output shaft from turning, thus allowing a "park" condition. You cant do this on manual trans vehicles cause compression alone will not hold a 4000lb truck lol.
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