I personally just use the stock exahust after the headers with gutted cat.

 

2.5" out would be fine, 2.125" is stock I think... "Keeping pressure" is a misnomer carried over from 2-stroke motorcycle guys, and doesn't apply to our 4-stroke engines.

 

Check it--this is for a T100--but it has cam specs--i am still doing research to finish out my tune--but a great piece of info to have

http://www.mr2.com/files/mr2/techinf...a/3vzVS5vz.pdf

 

Anyone have a picture of what the emblems and stickers that came with the SC kit look like? I haven't been able to find a picture anywhere. The premium fuel sticker and belt routing stickers as well?

Thanks

 

You can see the Supercharged and TRD logos in this picture. I don't think I have a whole lot straight on though...

 

Anyone wire/tune a AEM FIC box to a 5vz? Also, any throttle body change recommendations?

 

Thanks, that is what I thought the SC emblem looked like, but I couldn't find a definitive picture of it.

 

question for the 7th injector guys. How did you hook up the fuel line for the 7th injector? the urd kit calls to cut the pressure hose and splice into that. Not sure i want to do that. Is there a more bolt on with fittings approach? sorry for the thread jack.

 

yes at the end of the fuel rail there is a bolt . take it out and put in the line that TRD sent you and re-torque it. if you have the instruction sheet there is a picture of this in there. remember to put the washers on the new line or it will leak.

 

Hey Guys new to the forum but have been TTORA for a bit now and had a question pertaining to the Valve body upgrade shimming process. I try to read up as much as I can before posting but have a few questions I still have unanswered. According to the research i have done so far the general consensus is that most like to shim the first and second accumulators and leave third alone(personal preference). I saw earlier in the postings on this that (I believe it was Mastacox) said that he or someone had measured the springs and came up with a comparable springs to compensate for the new spring rate. Reason I am so interested in this is that the springs originally in there are designed for that specific length and compression. If you just place shims in there does it push that spring past its normal operating parameters and cause undue stress on the spring eventually causing spring fatigue and failure. I ask this because we had an issue when I was deployed in Iraq of someone miss ordering a compression springs for our weapons and we had a small batch of guns that had some spring failure issues or fatigue issues.
I understand that IPT has done the r&d to find these specifics out and they have their rights to their research. But out of the three things (newer valving/hydraulic routing, pressure increase, and increased spring compression) we can do two of these properly then I see no need to spend 700-1000 hard earned cash monies if you can down a six pack with a buddy do it yourself and promise him a t-bone when its done for <$65

So in the end has anyone measured the springs? Figured out the new ones(material/coating/specs)? or if not does anyone have the old ones that I could have so I could contact a spring company give them the springs and the corresponding shims I want and ask for a comparable spring to match those?

I feel like the peace of mind with the right equipment in there is worth the research because eventually those springs will give out if they are operating out of their limits.

I know that was lengthy but thanks in advance for any info!

 

You make a good point about the spring tension with the shims. I can't answer your question as to what size springs you'd need though.

What I can tell you is that I've got over 11,000 miles and I did NOT upgrade or touch my valve body at all. The 4Runner is still doing fine and I don't detect any slipping from the tranny or anything like that. If you want to drag race the thing, which I'm not sure why you would, or plan to beat on it off road every day then you might wanna get the VB upgrade. If you just drive the truck normally I'm not sure it's needed.

I do have a TruCool 4454 Tranny cooler installed and Mobil1 Synthetic tranny fluid. My tranny temp gauge never gets over 180 even when I'm doing WOT playing around in 100 degree ambient temps.

 

Ditto this, i have about the same amount of miles on my supercharger also with no trany mods and my tranny is still doing fine. And i beat the heck out of it as well, severl times to the drag track and driving it like i stole it day in and day out.

1 thing i do do to help is i let off the gas slightly when the tranny is shifting, no reason to keep it floored unless you really need the extra omph.

 

guys just thought I'd bring this thread back and give an update. I've got 130,000 supercharged miles. Everything is still working great. I've been changing the fluid in my nose cone every 30K miles with 75w90 redline gear oil. I recently had the nose start leaking and was able to get a seal on ebay for 15$ to fix it. Not bad. I'm going to run this thing until one of us dies.

I think people with nosecone failure may be having a leak and not notice it until all the oil is gone. Take a look at your blowers. Wipe your finger under the nose cone right behind your pully and see if it is dirty and oily. If it is, clean the underside of the nose cone, top off the oil, and get yourself the new seal on ebay.

 

Thought I'd pop in and post an update.

Project SportRunner is still going strong with zero issues to date. I've made some very slight tune adjustments for winter and summer driving, and now have a set and forget tune.

I'm running right around 11.8 - 12.0 AFR in the winter and about 11.3 - 11.5 in the summer. I figure that's a good compromise. The cooler winter air is more dense and more oxygen content thus a bit leaner AFR in cold air. In hot air I'm happier with a bit richer mixture to keep the cylinders happy.

I'm still loving the 4Runner and URD Supercharged setup.

 

Glad to hear it is still running good for you! My truck is also still running strong, LOVING the meth injection setup, don't know why i didn't do it sooner, night and day difference from the 7th kit.

So much easier to install/setup as well and cheaper to boot.

 

Great I assume you're talking about WOT?

 

Yes WOT. Cruising around it's 14.6ish.

I never did the meth injection....didn't do it on my Supercharged Challenger pushing 580RWHP on 12lbs of boost either. Have been considering it for the Challenger though since I drag race it from time to time. Ran 11.79 at 121.89 last Saturday in the quarter.

 

You got to try the meth injection, try it once and you WILL be hooked forever. I run it on all my cars now. Stuff is AMAZING!

You need a good kit though, not one of those el cheapo *cough* AEM *Cough* kits. I personally like Coolingmist and Aquamist the best. Bang for the buck is hard to beat with meth injection all the while keeping things safer.

My MR2 is actually going ot be running what could be called the ultimate meth injection system, gonna be injecting over 8000cc of meth vis 4 x 2000cc injector. Basically i am running it on meth when in boost.

That is not a bad time for a heavy car like the Challenger, it is amazing what a little weight will do, i was able to run a 12.0 equivalent time (only have an 1/8th strip locally, actual time was a 7.9 @ 91 at 14psi, trapped 94 at ~16psi) with around 320rwhp.

What was your 1/8 mile times? ~7.5 ish?

 

Yeah the Challenger is a big girl, but she suuuuuuure is pretty. Weight is around 4350lbs with me in it. The car could run 11.30s probably, but it's a manual and I'm not a great driver LOL.

1/8 mile was 7.69 at 94.84. 1.84 60'.

Drove it 100 miles to the track, swapped rear tires to M&H drag radials, ran 11s, then drove 100 miles home. Averaged 21MPG haha.

 

Yeah, they are heavy for sure, about as heavy as our 4runners lol.

That is not a bad 1/8th time, get the 60ft down and you could pull a 7.5 pretty easy which would be a low/mid 11 in the 1/4. My mr2 weighs in around 2900 with me in it so it is slightly lighter lol.

The fastest MR2 right now actually has the same power as you but runs 9.6's pulling a wheelie all the way through 1st and 2nd

Example: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K7mCE...el_video_title

But then he also only weighs around 2400lb. almost 2000lb less will do that, it's like you tossing a civic in the trunk before you race lol.