Probably not, I was 0% serious. Sorry Speedy back to regular programing now.

 

Can you display fuel trims and ECU operating status on the scan gauge?

Gadget

 

It appears to me that the ScanGaugeII can NOT display fuel trims, based on its listed capabilities...

Here's what they say it can display as a "Digital Gauge":

Fuel Economy
Fuel Rate
Battery Voltage
Coolant Temperature
Intake Air Temperature
Engine Speed (RPM)
Vehicle speed (MPH)
Manifold Pressure (not available on some vehicles)
Engine Load
Throttle Position
Ignition Timing
Open/Closed Loop

 

fwiw, the manual's here:
http://scangauge.com/support/pdfs/SGIIManual.pdf

You can define your own PIDs - but I can't find anywhere that it says you can use custom PIDs as a gauge entry.

 

Are the pipes coming down from the manifolds to the catalytic converters stainless steel on 3rd Gen 4Runners?

I was going to have my wide band bung installed today, but realized the one that came with my LC-1 is NOT stainless. I've read about these bung/plugs seizing up and figured stainless was the better way to go. I'll also be using a generous amount of anti-seize on the plug threads as well.

Should I order a stainless bung/plug? What about brass? I've seen those as well.

 

I got stainless steel bungs from URD when I bought my wideband kit just to be sure. It seems to be working b-e-a-utifully.

I actually need to take my WB O2 sensor out and do a free-air calibration on it, I'll let you know how "seized" the threads are...

 

So our down pipes are stainless then?

I ordered an URD stainless bung and plug yesterday.

 

I'm surprised the APEXi SAFC hasn't been mentioned yet... I have one on my truck it it works great. All vitals are right there in numerical, graphical and even "digital gauges". It isn't the cheapest route, but if you take into account having a dedicated laptop to tuning your rig, its not that bad. I'm finding them on ebay for under $300 or so.

I might be getting ahead of things here but what AFRs should I be shooting for? What seems to be best yet still safe? I'm running it really fat right now to be safe but I'm getting 11mpg with medium throttle around town giving occasional "rides"... I really need to get the thing on a dyno and I think there is one in town now. I'll see if I can split some time with some people...

Thanks guys!

 

Austin joins the supercharged club yet again!!!

In a very, very simplified way of saying things, you want to be running at AFR = 14.7:1 in vacuum up to 1psi of boost, and above 1psi of boost you want to be at AFR = 12.0:1. I suspect you are running WAY too rich if you're only getting 11mpg.

Do you have an AFR gauge?

 

From what I've seen there's no practical way to get the vehicle to run at ANYTHING BUT 14.7:1 unless you give enough throttle to get into open loop. I'm not sure how much boost that corresponds to, but I'd think it more than 1psi. This is assuming you have the factory wide band sensor and not just a standard 02. I believe the change was made in 2001 but not sure on that one.

Running too rich will clog up your cats or burn them out depending on how rich it is so beware. I'd not run anything less than 11.7:1.

 

I just thought I'd throw in my 2 cents on EGT readings. You're going to get the hottest temperatures around 14.7:1 AFR... Anything Leaner OR Richer than that will give lower temps... Its just important to know what side of the range you're on.

 

I made a slight modification to my plans. I just ordered the Sport Comp II mechanical boost gauge, and Sport Comp II electric transmission temperature gauge.

After talking to Autometer, they convinced me the "through the dial" LED lighting was far superior to the Sport Comp bulb lighting that reflects off the bezel. Even though the Sport Comp IIs only come in white lighting with no green available, I decided it was worth the color difference for improved visibility and less current draw on the dash lighting system.



I've also decided to use a Cirkit Boss fuse block to run all the switched 12V accessories like the gauges and LC-1 to isolate them from the factory electrical system.

 

Nice - I used the same unit to power all my boxes. One thing though, make sure you run the ground for your ftc, afr calibrator, lc-1, etc... to the same ground the stock ecu uses for the sensors you are manipulating. The ground for those sensors on my truck (99 4runner) is on the drivers side of the intake plenum - I imagine it's the same for yours. Doing this reduces noise and will help get a cleaner signal to the ecu. Good luck!

 

Thanks for the tip. I'll take a look to see if I can find the ground location you mention.

 

Thanks for pointing out that I have no timing controls! I was talking with a buddy of mine and it looks like I'm going to be going mega-squirt... I'll make my own thread when it actually starts happening. My buddy that works at a European tuning company has an extra ecu and endless free time on the Dyno so expect to see some in depth tuning/dyno info within the next 6 months. He is in the middle of moving back east so I'm going to have to hold tight here for a while and live with an uber-rich 11mpg 4Runner until then. Can't wait!

 

dooooooooooood... You SO have to keep me in the loop with this!

GOOD LUCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

OUCH 11mpg my crappy gas F250 gets better than that! I think I would just ride my bike.

Aaron

 

That, my friend is what an oxygen sensor calibrator is for (at least in theory, some people have had better luck than others though). My FTC1-E has a built-in oxygen sensor signal conditioner and I am successfully running at 12:1 AFR as soon as the MAP sensor in the unit sees 1 psi.

Open loop happens at about 80% throttle, which at least for me is close to maximum boost (5-6 psi at altitude). This presents a problem because you're running in closed loop at stoich in the low-boost region, causing high egt's. But, if you have an oxygen sensor calibrator your problems are alleviated.

For 4Runners, wideband O2 sensors were added into cali-spec 99 and 00 vehicles, and by 2001 all have it.

Woah, Megasquirt is a very good but very extreme option. Definitely talk to Mark about that one, because he's been throwing around going to Megasquirt for a good while now.

 

The people I've talked to seemed to have mixed results with a AFR calibrator. Most said it worked for a short period, then they had to disconnect the battery to reset the ECU for it to work again, and had to make this part of a routine operation in order to keep AFRs from being 14.7:1 in closed loop. Sounds like a lot of trouble to me.

The reason yours is successful is because your 4Runner is a 1998 which just has a narrowband O2 sensor that is more easily fooled.

 

Hmm, sounds like we're going to need some input from Gadget on this one... Of course you could be like Austin and just get a Megasquirt system lol

I wonder if Dale (mt_goat) has had any luck with his AFRSC?