!!Speedy's Supercharger Thread!!
#41
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#42
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Honestly, I would pass on the BR-3 and get the ScanGauge II. I have the BR-3 and while it works great, it requires having it hooked up to the laptop in the truck. I don't travel with one, so if I have a problem on a trip, there is nothing the BR-3 can do for me. With the ScanGauge (which only costs about $50 more than the BR-3), you will have access to check codes and read engine sensors in the truck at all times. Want to buy my BR-3?
Can you display fuel trims and ECU operating status on the scan gauge?
Gadget
#43
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It appears to me that the ScanGaugeII can NOT display fuel trims, based on its listed capabilities...
Here's what they say it can display as a "Digital Gauge":
Fuel Economy
Fuel Rate
Battery Voltage
Coolant Temperature
Intake Air Temperature
Engine Speed (RPM)
Vehicle speed (MPH)
Manifold Pressure (not available on some vehicles)
Engine Load
Throttle Position
Ignition Timing
Open/Closed Loop
Here's what they say it can display as a "Digital Gauge":
Fuel Economy
Fuel Rate
Battery Voltage
Coolant Temperature
Intake Air Temperature
Engine Speed (RPM)
Vehicle speed (MPH)
Manifold Pressure (not available on some vehicles)
Engine Load
Throttle Position
Ignition Timing
Open/Closed Loop
#44
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fwiw, the manual's here:
http://scangauge.com/support/pdfs/SGIIManual.pdf
You can define your own PIDs - but I can't find anywhere that it says you can use custom PIDs as a gauge entry.
http://scangauge.com/support/pdfs/SGIIManual.pdf
You can define your own PIDs - but I can't find anywhere that it says you can use custom PIDs as a gauge entry.
#45
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Thread Starter
Are the pipes coming down from the manifolds to the catalytic converters stainless steel on 3rd Gen 4Runners?
I was going to have my wide band bung installed today, but realized the one that came with my LC-1 is NOT stainless. I've read about these bung/plugs seizing up and figured stainless was the better way to go. I'll also be using a generous amount of anti-seize on the plug threads as well.
Should I order a stainless bung/plug? What about brass? I've seen those as well.
I was going to have my wide band bung installed today, but realized the one that came with my LC-1 is NOT stainless. I've read about these bung/plugs seizing up and figured stainless was the better way to go. I'll also be using a generous amount of anti-seize on the plug threads as well.
Should I order a stainless bung/plug? What about brass? I've seen those as well.
#46
Contributing Member
Are the pipes coming down from the manifolds to the catalytic converters stainless steel on 3rd Gen 4Runners?
I was going to have my wide band bung installed today, but realized the one that came with my LC-1 is NOT stainless. I've read about these bung/plugs seizing up and figured stainless was the better way to go. I'll also be using a generous amount of anti-seize on the plug threads as well.
Should I order a stainless bung/plug? What about brass? I've seen those as well.
I was going to have my wide band bung installed today, but realized the one that came with my LC-1 is NOT stainless. I've read about these bung/plugs seizing up and figured stainless was the better way to go. I'll also be using a generous amount of anti-seize on the plug threads as well.
Should I order a stainless bung/plug? What about brass? I've seen those as well.
I actually need to take my WB O2 sensor out and do a free-air calibration on it, I'll let you know how "seized" the threads are...
#47
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I ordered an URD stainless bung and plug yesterday.
#48
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I'm surprised the APEXi SAFC hasn't been mentioned yet... I have one on my truck it it works great. All vitals are right there in numerical, graphical and even "digital gauges". It isn't the cheapest route, but if you take into account having a dedicated laptop to tuning your rig, its not that bad. I'm finding them on ebay for under $300 or so.
I might be getting ahead of things here but what AFRs should I be shooting for? What seems to be best yet still safe? I'm running it really fat right now to be safe but I'm getting 11mpg with medium throttle around town giving occasional "rides"... I really need to get the thing on a dyno and I think there is one in town now. I'll see if I can split some time with some people...
Thanks guys!
I might be getting ahead of things here but what AFRs should I be shooting for? What seems to be best yet still safe? I'm running it really fat right now to be safe but I'm getting 11mpg with medium throttle around town giving occasional "rides"... I really need to get the thing on a dyno and I think there is one in town now. I'll see if I can split some time with some people...
Thanks guys!
Last edited by turboale; 04-10-2007 at 10:03 AM.
#49
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Austin joins the supercharged club yet again!!!
In a very, very simplified way of saying things, you want to be running at AFR = 14.7:1 in vacuum up to 1psi of boost, and above 1psi of boost you want to be at AFR = 12.0:1. I suspect you are running WAY too rich if you're only getting 11mpg.
Do you have an AFR gauge?
In a very, very simplified way of saying things, you want to be running at AFR = 14.7:1 in vacuum up to 1psi of boost, and above 1psi of boost you want to be at AFR = 12.0:1. I suspect you are running WAY too rich if you're only getting 11mpg.
Do you have an AFR gauge?
#50
Registered User
Thread Starter
Austin joins the supercharged club yet again!!!
In a very, very simplified way of saying things, you want to be running at AFR = 14.7:1 in vacuum up to 1psi of boost, and above 1psi of boost you want to be at AFR = 12.0:1. I suspect you are running WAY too rich if you're only getting 11mpg.
Do you have an AFR gauge?
In a very, very simplified way of saying things, you want to be running at AFR = 14.7:1 in vacuum up to 1psi of boost, and above 1psi of boost you want to be at AFR = 12.0:1. I suspect you are running WAY too rich if you're only getting 11mpg.
Do you have an AFR gauge?
Running too rich will clog up your cats or burn them out depending on how rich it is so beware. I'd not run anything less than 11.7:1.
Last edited by Speedy; 04-10-2007 at 10:44 AM.
#51
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I just thought I'd throw in my 2 cents on EGT readings. You're going to get the hottest temperatures around 14.7:1 AFR... Anything Leaner OR Richer than that will give lower temps... Its just important to know what side of the range you're on.
#52
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Thread Starter
I made a slight modification to my plans. I just ordered the Sport Comp II mechanical boost gauge, and Sport Comp II electric transmission temperature gauge.
After talking to Autometer, they convinced me the "through the dial" LED lighting was far superior to the Sport Comp bulb lighting that reflects off the bezel. Even though the Sport Comp IIs only come in white lighting with no green available, I decided it was worth the color difference for improved visibility and less current draw on the dash lighting system.
I've also decided to use a Cirkit Boss fuse block to run all the switched 12V accessories like the gauges and LC-1 to isolate them from the factory electrical system.
After talking to Autometer, they convinced me the "through the dial" LED lighting was far superior to the Sport Comp bulb lighting that reflects off the bezel. Even though the Sport Comp IIs only come in white lighting with no green available, I decided it was worth the color difference for improved visibility and less current draw on the dash lighting system.
I've also decided to use a Cirkit Boss fuse block to run all the switched 12V accessories like the gauges and LC-1 to isolate them from the factory electrical system.
Last edited by Speedy; 04-10-2007 at 11:20 AM.
#53
Registered User
I made a slight modification to my plans. I just ordered the Sport Comp II mechanical boost gauge, and Sport Comp II electric transmission temperature gauge.
After talking to Autometer, they convinced me the "through the dial" LED lighting was far superior to the Sport Comp bulb lighting that reflects off the bezel. Even though the Sport Comp IIs only come in white lighting with no green available, I decided it was worth the color difference for improved visibility and less current draw on the dash lighting system.
I've also decided to use a Cirkit Boss fuse block to run all the switched 12V accessories like the gauges and LC-1 to isolate them from the factory electrical system.
After talking to Autometer, they convinced me the "through the dial" LED lighting was far superior to the Sport Comp bulb lighting that reflects off the bezel. Even though the Sport Comp IIs only come in white lighting with no green available, I decided it was worth the color difference for improved visibility and less current draw on the dash lighting system.
I've also decided to use a Cirkit Boss fuse block to run all the switched 12V accessories like the gauges and LC-1 to isolate them from the factory electrical system.
Nice - I used the same unit to power all my boxes. One thing though, make sure you run the ground for your ftc, afr calibrator, lc-1, etc... to the same ground the stock ecu uses for the sensors you are manipulating. The ground for those sensors on my truck (99 4runner) is on the drivers side of the intake plenum - I imagine it's the same for yours. Doing this reduces noise and will help get a cleaner signal to the ecu. Good luck!
#54
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Thread Starter
Nice - I used the same unit to power all my boxes. One thing though, make sure you run the ground for your ftc, afr calibrator, lc-1, etc... to the same ground the stock ecu uses for the sensors you are manipulating. The ground for those sensors on my truck (99 4runner) is on the drivers side of the intake plenum - I imagine it's the same for yours. Doing this reduces noise and will help get a cleaner signal to the ecu. Good luck!
#55
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Thanks for pointing out that I have no timing controls! I was talking with a buddy of mine and it looks like I'm going to be going mega-squirt... I'll make my own thread when it actually starts happening. My buddy that works at a European tuning company has an extra ecu and endless free time on the Dyno so expect to see some in depth tuning/dyno info within the next 6 months. He is in the middle of moving back east so I'm going to have to hold tight here for a while and live with an uber-rich 11mpg 4Runner until then. Can't wait!
Last edited by turboale; 04-16-2007 at 02:07 AM.
#56
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#58
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For 4Runners, wideband O2 sensors were added into cali-spec 99 and 00 vehicles, and by 2001 all have it.
I was talking with a buddy of mine and it looks like I'm going to be going mega-squirt... I'll make my own thread when it actually starts happening. My buddy that works at a European tuning company has an extra ecu and endless free time on the Dyno so expect to see some in depth tuning/dyno info within the next 6 months.
#59
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Thread Starter
That, my friend is what an oxygen sensor calibrator is for (at least in theory, some people have had better luck than others though). My FTC1-E has a built-in oxygen sensor signal conditioner and I am successfully running at 12:1 AFR as soon as the MAP sensor in the unit sees 1 psi.
The reason yours is successful is because your 4Runner is a 1998 which just has a narrowband O2 sensor that is more easily fooled.
#60
Contributing Member
The people I've talked to seemed to have mixed results with a AFR calibrator. Most said it worked for a short period, then they had to disconnect the battery to reset the ECU for it to work again, and had to make this part of a routine operation in order to keep AFRs from being 14.7:1 in closed loop. Sounds like a lot of trouble to me.
The reason yours is successful is because your 4Runner is a 1998 which just has a narrowband O2 sensor that is more easily fooled.
The reason yours is successful is because your 4Runner is a 1998 which just has a narrowband O2 sensor that is more easily fooled.
I wonder if Dale (mt_goat) has had any luck with his AFRSC?