Check out the 2 big plates that are the mounting points of the sliders. They are nice and big and thick - I don't see any need to weld extra plates to the frame to weld the plates on the sliders to. Seems a little redundant to me.

I asked SW about welding them on and they said they weld lots of them directly to the frame and haven't had a complaint or problem yet.

I will say that I think it is $65 well spent to have them powder coated. Mine look awesome, way better than I could've done with a rattle can. And I don't have the patience for 3 coats worth of application, dry time, flip over, rinse and repeat.

YMMV.

 

So I finally had time last night to drive out to my dad's (he's got a welder), and weld these puppies on. The length is good, my concern is that the main square tube that runs the length of the car isn't exactly centered on the pinch weld. it sits really close to the inside corner. Fireball, do you have the same problem? Everything else lines up quite nicely. It's been a while since I have welded, but I think they are attached quite well. I am a bigger guy (6ft 250) and I was jumping up and down on them. (my wife thought this step of the process was quite amusing). and they didn't budge. I still don't have a hi-lift jack to test that part out. but here is the end result.......


I also noticed some runs in the clear coat just underneath the rocker panel.... Is this a factory flaw? Now I am thinking my baby might have been hit while in the care of her previous owner.

 

Way to contribute to the thread.

They look good man.

Shrockworks does damn good work, never seen a product of theirs that I didn't like.

Fink

 

Powder coating would have been nice if you're not going to wheel it but I think powder coating would be a waste of money if you do wheel. It's true that the PC will hold up better to rock chips with your all terrain tires flicking up more rocks than mudders but there's no finish that would hold up to grinding on a boulder and it's just easier to touch up rattle can finish with more rattle can.

I prefer semi gloss, flat is easy to blend but it doesn't look as nice as a gloss. Gloss is silly for sliders and takes a long time to dry anyhow.

Looks like you gapped the sliders with the pinch weld? You need a minimum of 3/8" for sliders with 4 legs. Since yours has two legs , assuming the SW sliders use .120 tubing, maybe 1/2" gapping would be safer? Not the end of the world if you have tighter gaping than the above, you still have to dent past the pinch weld to get to your rockers Hey and there's always the possibility of just being just-that-good of a wheeler

Here's an example of frame flex for gapping. Notice the difference in gapping from the front of the slider to the back. That's no impact just good ole flex. Fun!

 

Thanks Fink! appreciate the compliment.

Glenyoshida: When I welded them, I just centered them front to back. as far as gapping them to the pinch weld, The scab plates that come with them make it difficult to set your own gap. they are bent at a 90* angle so they butt up against the side and the bottom. So the gap is kinda pre-set for you. I was planning on doing a LOT of wheeling. but every time I try to go something comes up. I've begun to get quite discouraged. 4 trips planned (5 tomorrow) and every single one has been cancelled. so, in the midst of all the frustration, I have changed my build plan. I still want to be able to do some wheeling, but I have always loved playing with fiberglass. and I love loud music, so I believe I am going to be taking her in more of a 75% show 25% go vehicle.

She will never be a trailer queen, but what is the point of building a sweet wheeling rig when you never have anyone to go with. Ya know?

(shameless plug: I am selling my camping/cargo box so check out the classifieds if you are interested!)