My 3vze dies when the weather is warm. It dies when I come off the highway either to a stop or driving slow. I took it to the dealer 3 months ago and they replaced the check engine light bulb and they said they reset the "specs". They charged me $296 for everything. They did fix the problem but now it is starting again. When it dies the check engine light does not come on. I did a compression test which was good, replaced the fuel filter,cleaned the throttle body, changed spark plug, cap, rotor and wires.I also used fuel injector cleaner. I was wondering if any body knows what "resetting the specs" means and if I can do it or is it something only a stealer can do. I have no idea what the problem might be.

 

sounds like timing may be off or some vacuum advance of some sort

 

Man I hope they didnt charge you $296 to pull the ECU fuse for ten mins.

 

Do you think thats how they " reset the specs"? If so thats ridicolous.

 

Maybe they took out the check engine light bulb also? Now that would be on a whole new level

 

actually that happened to a guy i know. it bought a used blazer from an evil dealership. a week later or so a warning light came on (i think it was oil pressure, but i'm not sure). so he takes it back under warrenty. all the dealership did was disconnect the light. couple of weeks later the engine blows.

it took a while until the truth came out and then he had a 5 year court battle, but finally got his money back. pure evil.

 

The light comes on when you turn the key. I meant when it dies, it doesnt come on.

 

please discribe what happens when it stall's.As in, does it idle low for a few seconds then die or does it just shut off stright away.
Also is it when the weather is hot or the motor is hot.has it ever done it on a cold day.

 

It idles low for afew seconds and dies. It only happens when it is 80degrees and up.

 

it could be that the idle is set to low,or perhaps a ...ummmm bugger this is a tricky one.
timing (posible ,but it wouldnt be going that well at anytime)
vacuum problem(highly possible)
bad temp sensor giving cold readings & choking the engine(unlikely but cant be ruled out)
bad egr (try bypassing it)
air flow problem or leak after AFM(highly possible ,check your intake by removing it,not just looking at it).mine had a split underneath.

Faulty Air Flow Meter (AFM) (possible. need multi meter to test)
Bad PCV( dont know the effects of a bad one though)
misadjusted TPS ( possible)
dodgy Battery ( even this is possible,it may not like the warmer weather,but it is unlikley)
thats all i can think of.....Good luck mate

 

Ive been wondering how to test the TPS.

 

Not hard, get a manual with the basic procedures and values it should give out in extreme and midpoints then test it with a simple multi-meter.

 

Im going to have to get one of those. I checked the big hoses going from the air box to the throttle body and found a split at the clamp to clamp it on the throttle. Im going to the stealer tommorow to get a new one, butI don't think that is the problem.

 

I thought as much,thats were mine had a split also.that will not be helping ,try looking at a dismantlers,it may save you plenty.you dont need new just better than you have at the moment.

 

You were right about going to a junk yard. They want $70 for that one hose. I ordered it because the junkyards here are almost as expensive. I was testing my air valve and it appears that it is bad. When I loosened the idle screw the engine stopped shaking as bad and it didn't die once today. I still would like to test the Tps just for kicks but Im not sure about the "feeler guages " and where to put them. My haynes manual isnt that clear.