Removng Decals
#1
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Location: Woodinville, Washington
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Removng Decals
Im going to remove the factory decals from my truck today. Ive tried using a heat gun and peeling them, but they still leave some kind of sticky papery residue behind that wont come out with soap and a brush.
If i peel them off and that residue is still there, can i use Goof-Off or similar products without taking off my finish or some of my paint in the process?
If i peel them off and that residue is still there, can i use Goof-Off or similar products without taking off my finish or some of my paint in the process?
#2
denatured alcohol works good for stickers,will not hurt the paint.You might have to wetsand and buff around the stickers once they are removed to get them to "blend away"..A detailer might beable to do it for you.
#3
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Not sure if you've checked this out, but 4crawler has some advice on this.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Stripes.shtml
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Stripes.shtml
#4
Contributing Member
Decal removal Instructions.
Removal of decals varies based on condition of striping on the vehicle. In general the newer the decal the easier they are to remove and the least amount of image left behind. Experience is really the only way to assess the best way to remove a stripe, if even possible. Here are some suggestions though.
If a stripe is still soft, pliable and not dried out, removal can be done with a heat gun and some pulling. Gently warm the area ahead of you and pull on the stripe with and shallow stretching motion. Do not pull out and away from the vehicle (such as at a 90 degree angle) for this will leave behind more glue for you to clean off. After stripe is removed use a solvent such as Xylol or Xylene which can be found at most hardware stores. Be careful however, this usually won't hurt factory paint, but it might damage repaints. Test an area first. If the rag drags on the paint or starts to leave marks, use a milder solvent. Soak the glue area till it softens with a solvent wet rag. Rub glue to remove. Repeat till glue is gone. A vinyl squeegee may help to scrape or wipe softened glue off, but use extreme caution.
If stripe is dry and or cracked, a vinyl and adhesive removal tool, such as the 2 versions by 3M, will be needed. They can be used by a do it yourselfer, but is better left to a professional at a stripe specialty facility such as Auto Trim Design. These methods can quickly damage paint (especially older or repaints) if not familiar with there effects. After stripe and glue is removed with removal wheels, there will be some glue residue that will need to be cleaned in the same manner listed above. Older stripe however will leave a scar in the paint that will either need to be recovered or repainted. Adding a little rubbing compound to your final cleaning rag will help diminish the scar and equalize the difference from the exposed paint and the stripe covered paint.
Most importantly, be careful, use gloves with any solvents and work in a well ventilated area. Never use a razor blade of any kind to remove stripes or decals. They can leave nasty gouges and cuts in both you and your paint.
Removal of decals varies based on condition of striping on the vehicle. In general the newer the decal the easier they are to remove and the least amount of image left behind. Experience is really the only way to assess the best way to remove a stripe, if even possible. Here are some suggestions though.
If a stripe is still soft, pliable and not dried out, removal can be done with a heat gun and some pulling. Gently warm the area ahead of you and pull on the stripe with and shallow stretching motion. Do not pull out and away from the vehicle (such as at a 90 degree angle) for this will leave behind more glue for you to clean off. After stripe is removed use a solvent such as Xylol or Xylene which can be found at most hardware stores. Be careful however, this usually won't hurt factory paint, but it might damage repaints. Test an area first. If the rag drags on the paint or starts to leave marks, use a milder solvent. Soak the glue area till it softens with a solvent wet rag. Rub glue to remove. Repeat till glue is gone. A vinyl squeegee may help to scrape or wipe softened glue off, but use extreme caution.
If stripe is dry and or cracked, a vinyl and adhesive removal tool, such as the 2 versions by 3M, will be needed. They can be used by a do it yourselfer, but is better left to a professional at a stripe specialty facility such as Auto Trim Design. These methods can quickly damage paint (especially older or repaints) if not familiar with there effects. After stripe and glue is removed with removal wheels, there will be some glue residue that will need to be cleaned in the same manner listed above. Older stripe however will leave a scar in the paint that will either need to be recovered or repainted. Adding a little rubbing compound to your final cleaning rag will help diminish the scar and equalize the difference from the exposed paint and the stripe covered paint.
Most importantly, be careful, use gloves with any solvents and work in a well ventilated area. Never use a razor blade of any kind to remove stripes or decals. They can leave nasty gouges and cuts in both you and your paint.
#5
Registered User
My buddy had his 1990 pickup stickers accidently removed with a pressure washer. The removal method left all the sticker goo behind.
After scouring the forums for the safest option we concluded that "3M Adhesive Remover" was the winner.
It took a lot of elbow grease, but the goo did come off using this product, and there was no damage to the paint.
Make sure and re-polish your vehicle when done to help your exposed paint match the paint previously covered by the stickers. His paint was too faded to get it to match perfectly, but we got it pretty close.
After scouring the forums for the safest option we concluded that "3M Adhesive Remover" was the winner.
It took a lot of elbow grease, but the goo did come off using this product, and there was no damage to the paint.
Make sure and re-polish your vehicle when done to help your exposed paint match the paint previously covered by the stickers. His paint was too faded to get it to match perfectly, but we got it pretty close.
#6
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Join Date: Sep 2007
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On my truck I tried three things.
1. A heat gun , was okay , but left a gooey meesy to scratch off. And it took forever for one fender. not good
2. 3M adhesive cleaner, I sprayed it and let it set many times, ,it was okay when used with the heat gun.
3. An attachment i bought at paint store called"the Eraser", worked best. Quick and easy, attaches to a drill, then after I used 3M cleaner took any left adhesive decal shreds left over. It was only ten bucks.....
1. A heat gun , was okay , but left a gooey meesy to scratch off. And it took forever for one fender. not good
2. 3M adhesive cleaner, I sprayed it and let it set many times, ,it was okay when used with the heat gun.
3. An attachment i bought at paint store called"the Eraser", worked best. Quick and easy, attaches to a drill, then after I used 3M cleaner took any left adhesive decal shreds left over. It was only ten bucks.....
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#8
Registered User
Just remember gloves, ventilation and alot of towels. I am glad I only had to do it once!!
#9
Registered User
I microwaved a wet paper towel and held it on the decal section by section, peeled the letters off while they were hot and damp. Didn't have any issue removing the lettering or leaving adhesive behind from the 9 year old dealership decals.
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