Batsoff

What's the secret to getting the driveshaft to come off the transfer case?

I was able to get the rear of the drive shaft to drop down off the 3rd member by raising the rear of the truck and removing the 4 bolts that hold it in place.

.... but the front won't budge.

I only removed the nuts, do I need to back out the 4 screws as well? They are pretty tight, not sure they are meant to be removed? Even without the nuts holding them in place, they aint budging?

I thought once I got the 4 nuts off, there would be enough play to wiggle the drive shaft out, but it's not budging a bit for me or my BFH.

-batsoff
2000 4Runner SR5 Highlander 5spd

PismoJoe

Theres a few ways to do it...

I favor having a swivel head socket with a cheater bar attached to the ratchet
Definitely put it in gear so the shaft won't spin
If its tough, get a long wrench and a hammer to break initial torque

I had one case where the bolts were tight on the t-case side of the rear drive shaft, I just left it on because I was only doing the clutch, and with the extra crossmember dropped, there was really no need for it to come off.

I put the rear end of the drive shaft on a skateboard, then the weight was largely off of the t-case so it was easy to move around

Whats the goal of this? clutch job?

Batsoff

Thanks Joe...

I'm trying to find my mystery vibration... I want to take the DS out so I can see if my vibration changes / goes away etc...

So the 4 bolts holding the DS to the transfer case should be backed out and removed?

-batsoff

PismoJoe

I forget which ones stay....

Did you get the nuts off? You have to hit it with a hammer from a few angles to get the DS to budge. Put a rag over the driveshaft to avoid denting it. I know that the front DS studs stay for sure on the t-case side, I think same thing goes for the rear.

P.S. don't forget to put matchmarks on the DS and adapter plate so you know exactly where it should go when putting it back together.

scuba

The "bolts" on the transfer case flanges (front and rear outputs) are studs, and are not meant to come out.

You need to try and pull it out as level as possible. Maybe push the rear of the driveshaft above the axle and then pull.

Batsoff

OK... thanks fellas. Catching my breath and then gonna give it another go.

I'll hit it from a few different angles to see if I can get it to budge.

Gerdo

The diff has nuts and bolts, which you already know. The transfer case flange has studs that stay in the flange and you only take off the nuts, which you already have done. Spray some penetrate oil in between the flange and driveshaft, let it sit then hid the DS with a big deadblow hammer. You can even try to get a prybar between the two surfaces. Tap it in. Work around all sides of the flange.

Yukon

I stripped two of my bolts on the t-case prying it out. Sucks.


Anyways, if you have it still connected to the rear diff flange, remove the grease zerk, that will allow it to compress a bunch more. Other wise you need a big pry bar, and to have it come off as straight as possible. support the end of the shaft once you break it loose, and it should slide right off.

It once too me 20 minutes of fooling around to get mine off... I angled my pry bar so part was on the shaft, and part was on the flange. Not in between the two

Batsoff

uggh... I suck. It aint coming off tonight.

Even with 2 of the bolts from the transfer case out (they came out during my prying, there are now only 2 bolts holding that end on), I still can't get it to budge.

Thanks for the ideas fellas, I understand the concept of prying it off, just not happening for me tonight. My PB Blaster, pry bar, and 2lb dead blow hammer will need to take another run at it later.

-batsoff

Yukon

Did you try taking off the grease fitting so the extra grease you are trying to compress can come out