This isnt the usual user of the name. Im his best friend Ron. I have a 92 Pickup and i am looking to clear 35s. I was thinking of using a 4 inch suspension lift and a 2 inch body lift. That will work well right? What i want to know is WHAT ELSE DO I NEED TO BUY to make the truck work well? I know in my old jeep i had to put in dana 40s instead of the D35 i had to use a SYE and a bunch of other CRAP. So maybe you guys could tell me what i need to put on the truck besides the lift to make it work well? THX

 

slip yoke? what's that?

toyota drivetrains are pretty solid the way they are...you don't ever hear about people blowing up transfer cases or rear axles much with anything short of a V8.

i think a 4" suspension lift might will work, but body lifts suck IMO. 35s are pretty big for the IFS front end...the final solution here is to swap in a straight axle, but i don't know if it's what you need...

 

i dont think 35,s will clear.my 33,s scrub like hell with a 3"body lift,and t/b's jacked way up.but i have 9" wheels with very litte backspacing too.4" susp lift may clear 35,s but still will be very close to body mount behind tire.

 

You're on the right track. With a 4" lift and 2" BL the 35s will clear fine. I've had 38s (4"/3") and they were fine. Resist the urge to crank the heck out of the torsion bars. Disconnect the swaybar off road and it will flex. You won't have to modify anthing else, no SYE, no TCase spacers, no new rear or front driveshaft - none of that crap... The Yota rear axle is stronger than the Dana44, so no worries.

Regear, yes yes yes. Then drive.

Next would be traction aids. Limited slips, lockers etc. Rear for sure, front too if you want to get serious on the trail.

(By the way, you didn't have to change to Dana 44s in the Heep, the D35s are fine and with a little help can be just as strong as a 44 for anything short of a V8.)

 

Well the kit im looking at it a 4 inch lift(suspension) Then i'll do a 2-3 inch body. Probably 2. So i ahve a few more questions. The lift comes with the following: This kit includes the lifted knuckles to maintain upper a-arm geometry and steering, differential drop brackets, crossmember brackets, bumpstop extensions, rear block and u-bolt kit (4) premium grade 8000 series shocks w/ black boots, and all necessary hardware, brackets, and instructions.

Would i need anything else?

My second questions is this. If i do a 2 inch body lift, what will i need? Like do i need some different brackets?Or brake lines? Thx for the help guys...

 

The brake lines will need extended with the suspension kit. Or at least undo the brackets and move the lines down.

Check out the Roger Brown body lift kits on here, he will steer you straight on all that stuff. Lots of little details. You might consider the Marlin Crawler short throw shifters too, they are nice and at the same time solve the problem of the shifters now not being in the hole properly, and being shorter too...

Just from my own experience - I hate the axle wrap with the blocks - it's bad. You might consider upgrading to rear springs. (NOT add a leafs - get springs.)

 

what is axle wrap?I hear about it alot, can you expliain it>

 

axle wrap is when there's enough rotational force on the axle to make the springs twist into an "S" shape. blocks act as a lever, making it worse

 

Yep, and my stock 214k old springs are soft and wrap BAD!
Blocks are bad, m'kay?

 

hmm...does it happen in every case? I could do springs instead of blocks...But were talkin another 350$....Im on a budget. Can i get away with the blocks?