I want to replace the shoes and have the drums turned on the rear of my 97 4Runner Limited. I've done this before but I want to make sure I do it the "right" way this time.

I've got some bent shoe hold down pins and a couple of missing cups so I'd like to go ahead and get replacements for the shoe hold down hardware. Will this hardware come with new shoes from the dealership? If not, does anyone know what I need to tell the parts guy I am in need of?

New return and anchor springs might not be a bad idea either. Is there a package that contains all of this hardware?

Thanks.

 

I've gotten rear drum brake kits before.

:wabbit2:

 

I bought new shoes from the dealer about 3 months ago. Nothing came with the shoes in the box.

I suspect you can buy a set of springs from the dealer.

When I did the brake job and I just washed every part in my parts washer and re-assembled. Remember to put some white lithium grease on the backing plate when it makes contact with the shoes.

Another nice thing to do is disassembly, clean and re-grease the bellcrank which connects the parking brake cable to the rear brakes. They can get gummed up especially if you've wheeled it hard.

 

Thanks for both replies. I guess I'll check in to a kit. If worse comes to worse I'll just make the parts counter figure it out for me.

 

Yep the duck is right, just shoes come by themselves, but I have gotten kits with everything in them or maybe it was just I have an exceptional parts guy at the dealer and he put it all together for me. I don't remember.

:wabbit2:

 

Advance Auto Parts had the rear brake hardware kit in stock for my 2000. This is definitely the way to go as it only cost about $15 and came with all the springs, pins, clips, etc.

 

Thanks for the Advance Auto info. I might give their kit a shot...

 

I did mine with these from NAPA for $11.99:



Linky (NAPA Online)

 

spring kit with every shoe change is a good plan

 

I ended up going with the Napa spring kit. I don't know why but I just like Napa.

Now I've got a new issue with the brakes though. My passenger side drum was a real PITA to get off. I thought maybe the drum just a had a lip that was making it hard to get off. So I put the new shoes and parts on and tried to slip a new drum on. It went on but even with the adjuster all the way in, there is too much drag.

On the driver side, I could see a large gap b/w the shoe and the drum when viewing from the inspection hole. However, on the passenger side, there is no gap b/w the shoe and the drum. The adjuster is retracted as far as it can possibly go. I went for a ride and the passenger side drum was noticeably hotter than the driver side when I got back.

So the bottom line is the passenger side is too tight but it's not the adjuster. Something else (slave cylinder?). Any ideas on what I should check next?

 

Pull the drum back off. I think your pads slipped when you put the drum back on. They just need realigned, also check that the BIG LONG spring is not pushing on the back of the pad. Make sure the gap in the big spring is lined up with the adjuster also.

 

Good ideas.

However, it did seem like it was a bear to pull the drum when starting the brake job off even though I had backed the adjust off 100%. I guess it's possible I had the same problem before and after. I was thinking more that it might be a stuck slave cylinder or some other problem in the brake system.

 

Either something is not lining up like it should or possibly the ebrake lever is stuck on that side. I'm talking about the little arm that goes in from the back side of the backing plate. Did you check your wheel cylinders while you had the back apart?

 

Make sure the E-brake moves freely when ya get back in there also. Good luck, I know its a pain to keep pulling that stuff apart

 

It sure is a pain. I guess I'll just have a look tomorrow after work. Thanks for the ideas.

 

Sure thing, no problem. Hope you get it figured out.

 

Turns out, from what I can tell, is that I had a sticky wheel cylinder. After putting a new one in, the springs were able to pull the shoes as far back as they should go.

I threw everything back together, bled the brakes and took her for a drive. The shift shock has all but gone away but the best part is that the truck doesn't take a severe nose dive when braking to a complete stop. Man is that nice! I do think that the dragging brake might have warped a brand new drum after 20 miles of driving but oh well...

Next thing to figure out is why all the lights are so dim!

Thanks for the help and encouraging words everyone!