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Looking at doing this but do you have a full write up with step by step? Or just the parts list?
Edit: sorry just realized this was page two
Are you responding to my post? Drilled and slotted is literally just high performance brake rotors. You buy them drilled and slotted. Some people may drill and slot their own rotors but i wouldnt recommend that. Ceramic brake pads are a quieter/ longer lasting type of brake pad. So it comes down to a basic brake job. I haven't come across anyone who has done this with a toyota truck, so I can't give you results personally. I can't imagine it being any better than just doing the tundra brake upgrade. Tundra brake upgrade may be cheaper.
If you can turn a wrench confidently, but have never worked on your truck, brakes are a great place to start.
Are you looking for a quick cheap upgrade? Or are you looking to put in the time, money and effort?
Last edited by mynameistommy510; 10-14-2013 at 06:20 PM.
Looking at doing this but do you have a full write up with step by step? Or just the parts list?
Well, you can refer to the FSM for steps relating to changing a caliper and brake hose, installing wheel studs, and after the adapter plates are made, you literally bolt them up and the rest is in a standard fsm. Its really not rocket science. Its bolt on.
Well, you can refer to the FSM for steps relating to changing a caliper and brake hose, installing wheel studs, and after the adapter plates are made, you literally bolt them up and the rest is in a standard fsm. Its really not rocket science. Its bolt on.
Did you have to use a 16" wheel for this set up?
I need to extend the brakes out to make room for my bigger arms so this conversion look perfect.
I have custom race hubs from cone racing that are 3.5" wide od, on a stock modified 2wd spindle. do you think the hub id in the rotors you used can be turned to 3.5"? I'm also worried the rotor will be too thick and will interfere with my steering arm that is welded to my spindle. Does the backside of the rotor hang over the spindle at all?
see how close the stock rotor is to my steering gusset? I'm concerned the rotor you used will interfere. I can always clearance but am curious how much it protrudes if any.
My stock caliper hits the arm in the straight position so i'm in desperate need of caliper clearancing.
Can you get the mounting brackets made again or another set I'll buy some please and thanks!
Im not going to build any more.. but pm me your email and i can send you a 1:1 template for $20 that you can have cut out of 7/16" plate if you dont want to attempt making the template yourself.
I know this thread is SUPER old now, but so are my trucks!
I have been using this post as my upgrade bible for the past few months. This is what I have so far.
1980 longbed 2wd SR5 w/4wd fenders/bed
Pre-runnered out with 2" Body Lift-3" lift Spindles and add a leaf's below (1983) 1 ton spings out back
31x10.5 Goodyears on 15x8 high offset rims with 1.5" spacer on back stock 1980 7.5" axle - 4.56 gears with TruTrac
Full 89-95 front suspension swap-less torsions(still 1980 stocks!)
For the brakes I have upgraded the OEM stock tiny stuff for something a little more appropriate for the big tires I'm running. I swapped in parts from a 1992 V6 1 ton truck, along with its dual diaphragm booster and 1" master cylinder. This thing (empty) will lock front tires and stops great. It's when I add weight (trailer) that I found they still need some more grunt.
I have Toyota P60 type calipers and the 1 ton rotor as described in these earlier posts by Gadgedizzle, a little bigger rotor at 10.1" and according to the manual 25mm thick. According to my findings on the net, the P66 Dual Rear Wheel Caliper has a bigger piston (2.621" vs 2.3xx") looks more ridged and is capable of a 30MM thick rotor - Only ~8mm larger in diamerter = insignificant. Stock type organic pads is all I could find for friction for the P60's. The P66 has more pads available and most importantly to me is BOLTS IN PLACE WITH WHAT I HAVE. The 4wd although cool and plentiful requires bracketry.
The issue is that I can not find a rebuilt set of these P60 calipers local, and with these being the rarest of the truck calipers I want to make sure I get the right ones and not have to ship things back.
What are the thoughts of using the P66 Dual rear wheel caliper in place of the P60 1 ton unit. ie: on paper it fits, but has anyone here tried? It is easier to find, and has more pad options-Ceramic would be AWESOME!
Also and chance any other trucks used the 10.1" size 5 lug 30MM disc?
Also is there a comparable rear disc set up for this? or should I invest in a universal adjustable proportioning valve and be done?
Face to face with a 4" suspension lift 94 4wd
New rims n tires
fresh install - 3" lift spindles P60 1 ton discs/calipers
P60 1 ton V6 caliper
Custom AN lines into P60 caliper - note spindle drop
The problem I was having is not the caliper. The stock caliper with a dual diaphragm booster is more than capable of stopping a heavy load. The problem is thermal capacity of the disc itself.. You have huge tires and very little leverage on them with a small rotor that generates a ˟˟˟˟ ton of heat. That heat gets put into these tiny little rotors then everything overheats and you don't stop.
I'm putting down around 320whp and 318wtq. This thing climbs in speed FAST. If I'm going 100+ (which I do frequently) and need to stop NOW, the little brakes aren't going to do anything for you.. (Such as the same stopping a heavy load at much lower speeds.)
If you're running 10 inch or smaller brakes, you need some thick rotors. 1" or thicker at minimum. (My 13" rotors are like 1.18") and you need an aggressive pad that's not faded easily by heat. Like a semi-metallic. Performance pads are recommended.
Then, all you can do is hope and pray that you're not thermally overloading the brakes.
You are 100% right Gadgedizzle, thicker would be great, but there are not alot of donors out there to choose from. Everyone runs 16's minimum these days! And thats my exact issue, commuter traffic is Seattle heated them up good and they faded bad. I wish I could find an appropriate upgrade for the dual rear wheel pad and a thicker rotor- rotors are all listed by PN not size.
The thought crossed my mind to swap in a 4wd IFS Spindle-complete. It looks to be a perfect fit between the ball joints. I would gut and lock out the 4wd axle and install a dust shield. The steering stops most likely would not line up- but it 'would work'. But thats alot of work and still be 2wd!
The 4wd calipers only swap won't fix fade.
Another interesting thread ive seen is the LS400 brake being used by a mini trucker. I would *possibly* clear them with the 15" rims I have now and it does look straight forward. Drill and tap a hole, and possibly some washers. If I come across a cheap set of donor parts I will give it a go on a spare set of spindles I have. This will at least bring the brakes into this millenia!
I read your info and was inspired to upgrade the brakes on my 2WD '92 Pickup.
That's pretty cool.. I was looking at that as well.. It's definitely a great upgrade and viable option as well. My only problem with it was the fact that you only gain marginal performance over stock. When you add a heavy drive train, it makes a difference. The main advantage to the 1t brakes is the rotor thickness. It adds heat dissipation properties because there's more mass, however with "performance driving" the heat builds up quickly because the diameter is so small, comparatively. The large brake kit I pieced together is thicker and much larger diameter so not only does it dissipate heat much faster, but it generates much less heat.
The brake swap fits the build. For a v6 or built 4cyl, your brake swap is great! However, I wouldn't waste the money if you have an LT/LS/5.0 swap..
I like your thinking and appreciate your write up! It looks super clean, just like the rest of your truck!! Have you really pushed them yet?
With the LC engineering 2.6 L 22Re in my little truck the 1 ton brakes make a heck of a difference. If I had something big, like and LS, well it would be a very different story :-)
I have had to use them very hard. Since I don't have ABS they certainly lock up, but they really do pull the truck down from speed. No more pulsing from over heating these rotors I am glad to report.
10-14-2013, 06:18 PM
