No Start Condition: Ignition and Coil Test Info for 3VZE (89-95)
10-06-2012, 12:51 PM
#61
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Checked fuel pressure at the fuel rail and that is good. I checked the ground wires in the wiring harnesses for continuity to chassis ground although one book says that the igniter wire to the tach should have some resistance to ground but I can't find a spec for that. There is one ground wire running through a capacitor that attaches under the igniter support but I'm not sure if that is part of the system or not; it runs on one side the block and the other side disappears into a wiring harness. I also checked and have batt voltage at the coil and igniter.
By the way what is a "VAF"???
By the way what is a "VAF"???
10-06-2012, 03:58 PM
#62
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Sorry about that. It's the Volume Airflow Meter, or Vane Airflow meter, whichever you prefer. Should be located just aft of your air filter. It measures the amount of airflow, as well as temperature of air, and sends signal to ECU. If it is faulty, no signal is sent to ECU, so ECU sends no signal to the igniter, so no spark.
10-07-2012, 09:15 AM
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Looking into the VAF possibility. I can hear the flapper valve inside the air cleaner opening and closing wildly while the engine is turning over. I've never heard this sound before. This may be defective...Thanks!
10-20-2012, 02:49 PM
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The mass air flow sensor was defective so I replaced it and now I have spark from the coil. That is the good news .Vehicle not starting so I suspected timing. When turning the crank by hand to align with TDC the rotor doesn't turn but when cranking the starter the rotor turns. I guess I'm not understanding how this all works together but isn't starter connected to the fly wheel which is connected to the crank shaft??? So if the starter turns the rotor why shouldn't the crank also be turning the rotor when I turn it manually? Sorry if this is a stupid question but I'm still learning about all this. Thanks for any help.
07-21-2013, 08:03 PM
#67
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I've been trying to get some help from someone in regard testing the Distributor for Several days and got no, nothing, notta zip from anybody thank I've junk the Toyota this eveny.
Thank for the big help NOT
Thank for the big help NOT
10-22-2013, 10:56 AM
#68
can the vafm pass the resistances check and still be defective?
with key in ON position and vafm unplugged, no sound from fuel pump. when plugged in, i get sound from fuel pump and when B and Fp are jumped i hear noise at rails.
with key in ON position and vafm unplugged, no sound from fuel pump. when plugged in, i get sound from fuel pump and when B and Fp are jumped i hear noise at rails.
06-18-2014, 07:27 PM
#69
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Im not familiar in working on trucks but I'm a fast learner. Please help
A friend sent this to me, and it is taken from the Snap-On e-newsletter. I don't know the date on this, but thought it might be helpful to my fellow Toyota owners. Anyone with a 3.0 V6 that can verify that this information is good and useful, I would appreciate it. Hope this is helpful to you guys.
Tech Tip: No Spark and/or No Injector Pulse on Toyota
Application: 1989-1995 Toyota Pickup & 4-Runner with 3VZE Engine.
Symptom: No Start.
Theory: The Ignition system on this engine uses a Distributor with three
Pick-up Coils inside and an external Igniter and Coil. The ECM uses the
signals generated by the three Pick-ups to control the Igniter, which
controls the negative side of the Coil for spark. The Igniter also sends a
signal back to the ECM for injector pulse.
The Test: The first place to start is to check the Pick-ups inside the
Distributor. If any of them are defective, nothing else is going to work,
not even the tap-test we're going to do later. The first step is to test
resistance on each of the three Pick-ups. You'll want to check them with
the harness unplugged from the Distributor. Identify the terminals on the
Distributor connector using the wire colors on the harness side.
Terminal-1: White..NE signal
Terminal-2: Red..G1 signal
Terminal-3: Black..G2 signal
Terminal-4: Green..G- signal
Between G- and G1, it should be 125 & 200 ohms. Between G- and G2, it
should also be 125 to 200 ohms. Between G- and NE, it should 155 to 250
ohms. All of these resistance specs are at ambient temperature. If checked
on a hot engine, the tolerances go up about 30 ohms. If any one Pick-up
fails the test, it needs to be replaced before any further testing. If all
three Pick-ups pass, we need to do a "tap-test" at the Igniter. Make sure
the connector is plugged back in at the Distributor. Go to the Igniter,
which should be mounted at the Coil. On the Igniter connector, locate the
Black/Blue wire and probe into it with a test-light. With the key on, tap
the alligator clip of the test-light on battery negative and watch for
spark out of the Coil. If you get no response, try tapping the alligator
clip on battery positive, again watching for spark out of the Coil. If
there's no spark in either case, check for battery voltage at the positive
side of the Coil. If that's okay, attach a second test-light from ground to
the negative side of the Coil and redo the tap-test at the Igniter. If the
test-light on Coil negative flashes during the tap-test, and you had
voltage on the positive side, you have a bad Coil. If the second test-light
did not flash on Coil negative, we need to check the remaining wires at the
Igniter. Make sure you have battery voltage on the Black/Red wire at the
Igniter with the key on. If that's okay, make sure you have continuity on
the Black/White wire between the Igniter connector and the negative side of
the Coil. Make sure the Igniter itself is grounded properly to its mounting
surface on the truck, no rust or corrosion. The last check will be to make
sure the Black wire does not show full continuity to ground. This wire goes
to the Tachometer, and if grounded somewhere in the harness, will keep the
Igniter from working. If all of these things pass inspection, chances are
good you have a defective Igniter. Be sure you check resistance on the Coil
to be sure we don't damage a new Igniter. The primary side should be 0.4 to
0.6 ohms. Secondary should be 10,200 to 13,800 ohms.
The Fix: Replace the defective parts determined by the above testing. Don't
forget, if you do end up replacing the Igniter, double check Coil
resistance to avoid damaging a new Igniter.
Tech Tip: No Spark and/or No Injector Pulse on Toyota
Application: 1989-1995 Toyota Pickup & 4-Runner with 3VZE Engine.
Symptom: No Start.
Theory: The Ignition system on this engine uses a Distributor with three
Pick-up Coils inside and an external Igniter and Coil. The ECM uses the
signals generated by the three Pick-ups to control the Igniter, which
controls the negative side of the Coil for spark. The Igniter also sends a
signal back to the ECM for injector pulse.
The Test: The first place to start is to check the Pick-ups inside the
Distributor. If any of them are defective, nothing else is going to work,
not even the tap-test we're going to do later. The first step is to test
resistance on each of the three Pick-ups. You'll want to check them with
the harness unplugged from the Distributor. Identify the terminals on the
Distributor connector using the wire colors on the harness side.
Terminal-1: White..NE signal
Terminal-2: Red..G1 signal
Terminal-3: Black..G2 signal
Terminal-4: Green..G- signal
Between G- and G1, it should be 125 & 200 ohms. Between G- and G2, it
should also be 125 to 200 ohms. Between G- and NE, it should 155 to 250
ohms. All of these resistance specs are at ambient temperature. If checked
on a hot engine, the tolerances go up about 30 ohms. If any one Pick-up
fails the test, it needs to be replaced before any further testing. If all
three Pick-ups pass, we need to do a "tap-test" at the Igniter. Make sure
the connector is plugged back in at the Distributor. Go to the Igniter,
which should be mounted at the Coil. On the Igniter connector, locate the
Black/Blue wire and probe into it with a test-light. With the key on, tap
the alligator clip of the test-light on battery negative and watch for
spark out of the Coil. If you get no response, try tapping the alligator
clip on battery positive, again watching for spark out of the Coil. If
there's no spark in either case, check for battery voltage at the positive
side of the Coil. If that's okay, attach a second test-light from ground to
the negative side of the Coil and redo the tap-test at the Igniter. If the
test-light on Coil negative flashes during the tap-test, and you had
voltage on the positive side, you have a bad Coil. If the second test-light
did not flash on Coil negative, we need to check the remaining wires at the
Igniter. Make sure you have battery voltage on the Black/Red wire at the
Igniter with the key on. If that's okay, make sure you have continuity on
the Black/White wire between the Igniter connector and the negative side of
the Coil. Make sure the Igniter itself is grounded properly to its mounting
surface on the truck, no rust or corrosion. The last check will be to make
sure the Black wire does not show full continuity to ground. This wire goes
to the Tachometer, and if grounded somewhere in the harness, will keep the
Igniter from working. If all of these things pass inspection, chances are
good you have a defective Igniter. Be sure you check resistance on the Coil
to be sure we don't damage a new Igniter. The primary side should be 0.4 to
0.6 ohms. Secondary should be 10,200 to 13,800 ohms.
The Fix: Replace the defective parts determined by the above testing. Don't
forget, if you do end up replacing the Igniter, double check Coil
resistance to avoid damaging a new Igniter.
11-11-2014, 06:36 PM
#70
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What would make a fuel pump relay stay on while key is on. Fuel is being sent. no spark. Popped a dash fuse and when I replaced it is when the relay stayed on. Then popped the engine fuse. Theres also a relay under the hood that's ticking with the pump relay. Is is something stupid and I'm just over thinking it please help
11-13-2014, 10:40 AM
#71
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My 89 4Runner is having pickup coils issues, but in my distributor, there is no G-...only G1, G2 and NE. So...what is this G-?
And, been looking to test resistance between these three components but have yet to find them. They only speak of those including G-, which confuse me as I do not have it or, do not know to what this refers...?
And, been looking to test resistance between these three components but have yet to find them. They only speak of those including G-, which confuse me as I do not have it or, do not know to what this refers...?
07-16-2015, 11:21 AM
#73
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Ok just joi ed and getting this thread bumped up i have spark fuel everything besides injector pulse truck will start then die. Was told it's starting off the cold start injector but the injectors are not opening up. Plenty of fuel pressure. New in line fuel pump new regulator new rotor and cap new vafm new ignitor and coil and no dice. Getting agitated bout to throw in the towel. Why am i not getting the ground pulse on the white wire on injectors
09-18-2015, 07:01 AM
#74
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Igniters are hot on both sides 3vze
I have an 88 toyota pickup with a 3vze engine. Replaced igniter,coil injectors and won't start when testing the injector wires they are showing hot on both sides even when the computer is unplugged
12-20-2015, 08:58 PM
#75
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Figured I'd throw some of my Knowledge into the ring...
I had a 22RE a long time ago, and one day, just didnt want to start.
It was my 2nd car, so needless to say, I didnt know ˟˟˟˟ about ˟˟˟˟....
Come to find out, it was a Bad Starter. It cranked just fine, so how could it be the Starter?
Well, apparently, the Faulty starter was sending mis-matched signals to the Computer.
And if the Computer doesnt know that the starter is STARTING, then it's not gonna send the Fire Signal to the Igniter, coil, etc...
I am also having this particular issue right now, with my 3VZE.
I believe the Starter's at fault, because nothing else seems to be bad.
The only Ground I dont possess, is a Block to Chassis ground.
I have block to body, body to chassis, chassis to body, and body to Battery grounds, but with all of that, I can only HOPE that I dont need a Block:Chassis Ground.
I'll make one anyway, and if that doesnt do, I'll a New Starter, then Coil, and lastly, the most expensive part, the Tiny Igniter.
I had a 22RE a long time ago, and one day, just didnt want to start.
It was my 2nd car, so needless to say, I didnt know ˟˟˟˟ about ˟˟˟˟....
Come to find out, it was a Bad Starter. It cranked just fine, so how could it be the Starter?
Well, apparently, the Faulty starter was sending mis-matched signals to the Computer.
And if the Computer doesnt know that the starter is STARTING, then it's not gonna send the Fire Signal to the Igniter, coil, etc...
I am also having this particular issue right now, with my 3VZE.
I believe the Starter's at fault, because nothing else seems to be bad.
The only Ground I dont possess, is a Block to Chassis ground.
I have block to body, body to chassis, chassis to body, and body to Battery grounds, but with all of that, I can only HOPE that I dont need a Block:Chassis Ground.
I'll make one anyway, and if that doesnt do, I'll a New Starter, then Coil, and lastly, the most expensive part, the Tiny Igniter.
11-20-2016, 09:34 AM
#76
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A friend sent this to me, and it is taken from the Snap-On e-newsletter. I don't know the date on this, but thought it might be helpful to my fellow Toyota owners. Anyone with a 3.0 V6 that can verify that this information is good and useful, I would appreciate it. Hope this is helpful to you guys.
Tech Tip: No Spark and/or No Injector Pulse on Toyota
Application: 1989-1995 Toyota Pickup & 4-Runner with 3VZE Engine.
Symptom: No Start.
Theory: The Ignition system on this engine uses a Distributor with three
Pick-up Coils inside and an external Igniter and Coil. The ECM uses the
signals generated by the three Pick-ups to control the Igniter, which
controls the negative side of the Coil for spark. The Igniter also sends a
signal back to the ECM for injector pulse.
The Test: The first place to start is to check the Pick-ups inside the
Distributor. If any of them are defective, nothing else is going to work,
not even the tap-test we're going to do later. The first step is to test
resistance on each of the three Pick-ups. You'll want to check them with
the harness unplugged from the Distributor. Identify the terminals on the
Distributor connector using the wire colors on the harness side.
Terminal-1: White..NE signal
Terminal-2: Red..G1 signal
Terminal-3: Black..G2 signal
Terminal-4: Green..G- signal
Between G- and G1, it should be 125 & 200 ohms. Between G- and G2, it
should also be 125 to 200 ohms. Between G- and NE, it should 155 to 250
ohms. All of these resistance specs are at ambient temperature. If checked
on a hot engine, the tolerances go up about 30 ohms. If any one Pick-up
fails the test, it needs to be replaced before any further testing. If all
three Pick-ups pass, we need to do a "tap-test" at the Igniter. Make sure
the connector is plugged back in at the Distributor. Go to the Igniter,
which should be mounted at the Coil. On the Igniter connector, locate the
Black/Blue wire and probe into it with a test-light. With the key on, tap
the alligator clip of the test-light on battery negative and watch for
spark out of the Coil. If you get no response, try tapping the alligator
clip on battery positive, again watching for spark out of the Coil. If
there's no spark in either case, check for battery voltage at the positive
side of the Coil. If that's okay, attach a second test-light from ground to
the negative side of the Coil and redo the tap-test at the Igniter. If the
test-light on Coil negative flashes during the tap-test, and you had
voltage on the positive side, you have a bad Coil. If the second test-light
did not flash on Coil negative, we need to check the remaining wires at the
Igniter. Make sure you have battery voltage on the Black/Red wire at the
Igniter with the key on. If that's okay, make sure you have continuity on
the Black/White wire between the Igniter connector and the negative side of
the Coil. Make sure the Igniter itself is grounded properly to its mounting
surface on the truck, no rust or corrosion. The last check will be to make
sure the Black wire does not show full continuity to ground. This wire goes
to the Tachometer, and if grounded somewhere in the harness, will keep the
Igniter from working. If all of these things pass inspection, chances are
good you have a defective Igniter. Be sure you check resistance on the Coil
to be sure we don't damage a new Igniter. The primary side should be 0.4 to
0.6 ohms. Secondary should be 10,200 to 13,800 ohms.
The Fix: Replace the defective parts determined by the above testing. Don't
forget, if you do end up replacing the Igniter, double check Coil
resistance to avoid damaging a new Igniter.
Tech Tip: No Spark and/or No Injector Pulse on Toyota
Application: 1989-1995 Toyota Pickup & 4-Runner with 3VZE Engine.
Symptom: No Start.
Theory: The Ignition system on this engine uses a Distributor with three
Pick-up Coils inside and an external Igniter and Coil. The ECM uses the
signals generated by the three Pick-ups to control the Igniter, which
controls the negative side of the Coil for spark. The Igniter also sends a
signal back to the ECM for injector pulse.
The Test: The first place to start is to check the Pick-ups inside the
Distributor. If any of them are defective, nothing else is going to work,
not even the tap-test we're going to do later. The first step is to test
resistance on each of the three Pick-ups. You'll want to check them with
the harness unplugged from the Distributor. Identify the terminals on the
Distributor connector using the wire colors on the harness side.
Terminal-1: White..NE signal
Terminal-2: Red..G1 signal
Terminal-3: Black..G2 signal
Terminal-4: Green..G- signal
Between G- and G1, it should be 125 & 200 ohms. Between G- and G2, it
should also be 125 to 200 ohms. Between G- and NE, it should 155 to 250
ohms. All of these resistance specs are at ambient temperature. If checked
on a hot engine, the tolerances go up about 30 ohms. If any one Pick-up
fails the test, it needs to be replaced before any further testing. If all
three Pick-ups pass, we need to do a "tap-test" at the Igniter. Make sure
the connector is plugged back in at the Distributor. Go to the Igniter,
which should be mounted at the Coil. On the Igniter connector, locate the
Black/Blue wire and probe into it with a test-light. With the key on, tap
the alligator clip of the test-light on battery negative and watch for
spark out of the Coil. If you get no response, try tapping the alligator
clip on battery positive, again watching for spark out of the Coil. If
there's no spark in either case, check for battery voltage at the positive
side of the Coil. If that's okay, attach a second test-light from ground to
the negative side of the Coil and redo the tap-test at the Igniter. If the
test-light on Coil negative flashes during the tap-test, and you had
voltage on the positive side, you have a bad Coil. If the second test-light
did not flash on Coil negative, we need to check the remaining wires at the
Igniter. Make sure you have battery voltage on the Black/Red wire at the
Igniter with the key on. If that's okay, make sure you have continuity on
the Black/White wire between the Igniter connector and the negative side of
the Coil. Make sure the Igniter itself is grounded properly to its mounting
surface on the truck, no rust or corrosion. The last check will be to make
sure the Black wire does not show full continuity to ground. This wire goes
to the Tachometer, and if grounded somewhere in the harness, will keep the
Igniter from working. If all of these things pass inspection, chances are
good you have a defective Igniter. Be sure you check resistance on the Coil
to be sure we don't damage a new Igniter. The primary side should be 0.4 to
0.6 ohms. Secondary should be 10,200 to 13,800 ohms.
The Fix: Replace the defective parts determined by the above testing. Don't
forget, if you do end up replacing the Igniter, double check Coil
resistance to avoid damaging a new Igniter.
06-18-2017, 08:25 AM
#77
Okay I have been reading and doing these checks. This is what I have. 91 4Runner V6 with a 92 truck engine, tranny and electrical swapped in. Owner could never get it running. I purchased for a low low price and have got things back together and have questions. I'm not getting any spark from the coil. Using a test light I have power on the positive and negative side of the coil. Is this normal? Bleed through?
I did the tap test. Negative and Positive to the black blue wire gives me a spark. It does not say in the above post what this means. But I don't want to go buying parts when it's not needed.
I have read where the mass airflow sensor sensor can keep it from firing. Is there a way to jump this out or test the sensor to see if it's okay.
What wire goes back to the ecm or ecm sends a signal to the igniter?
Thanks for the future help.
I did the tap test. Negative and Positive to the black blue wire gives me a spark. It does not say in the above post what this means. But I don't want to go buying parts when it's not needed.
I have read where the mass airflow sensor sensor can keep it from firing. Is there a way to jump this out or test the sensor to see if it's okay.
What wire goes back to the ecm or ecm sends a signal to the igniter?
Thanks for the future help.
01-15-2018, 09:24 AM
#78
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A friend sent this to me, and it is taken from the Snap-On e-newsletter. I don't know the date on this, but thought it might be helpful to my fellow Toyota owners. Anyone with a 3.0 V6 that can verify that this information is good and useful, I would appreciate it. Hope this is helpful to you guys.
Tech Tip: No Spark and/or No Injector Pulse on Toyota
Application: 1989-1995 Toyota Pickup & 4-Runner with 3VZE Engine.
Symptom: No Start.
Theory: The Ignition system on this engine uses a Distributor with three
Pick-up Coils inside and an external Igniter and Coil. The ECM uses the
signals generated by the three Pick-ups to control the Igniter, which
controls the negative side of the Coil for spark. The Igniter also sends a
signal back to the ECM for injector pulse.
The Test: The first place to start is to check the Pick-ups inside the
Distributor. If any of them are defective, nothing else is going to work,
not even the tap-test we're going to do later. The first step is to test
resistance on each of the three Pick-ups. You'll want to check them with
the harness unplugged from the Distributor. Identify the terminals on the
Distributor connector using the wire colors on the harness side.
Terminal-1: White..NE signal
Terminal-2: Red..G1 signal
Terminal-3: Black..G2 signal
Terminal-4: Green..G- signal
Between G- and G1, it should be 125 & 200 ohms. Between G- and G2, it
should also be 125 to 200 ohms. Between G- and NE, it should 155 to 250
ohms. All of these resistance specs are at ambient temperature. If checked
on a hot engine, the tolerances go up about 30 ohms. If any one Pick-up
fails the test, it needs to be replaced before any further testing. If all
three Pick-ups pass, we need to do a "tap-test" at the Igniter. Make sure
the connector is plugged back in at the Distributor. Go to the Igniter,
which should be mounted at the Coil. On the Igniter connector, locate the
Black/Blue wire and probe into it with a test-light. With the key on, tap
the alligator clip of the test-light on battery negative and watch for
spark out of the Coil. If you get no response, try tapping the alligator
clip on battery positive, again watching for spark out of the Coil. If
there's no spark in either case, check for battery voltage at the positive
side of the Coil. If that's okay, attach a second test-light from ground to
the negative side of the Coil and redo the tap-test at the Igniter. If the
test-light on Coil negative flashes during the tap-test, and you had
voltage on the positive side, you have a bad Coil. If the second test-light
did not flash on Coil negative, we need to check the remaining wires at the
Igniter. Make sure you have battery voltage on the Black/Red wire at the
Igniter with the key on. If that's okay, make sure you have continuity on
the Black/White wire between the Igniter connector and the negative side of
the Coil. Make sure the Igniter itself is grounded properly to its mounting
surface on the truck, no rust or corrosion. The last check will be to make
sure the Black wire does not show full continuity to ground. This wire goes
to the Tachometer, and if grounded somewhere in the harness, will keep the
Igniter from working. If all of these things pass inspection, chances are
good you have a defective Igniter. Be sure you check resistance on the Coil
to be sure we don't damage a new Igniter. The primary side should be 0.4 to
0.6 ohms. Secondary should be 10,200 to 13,800 ohms.
The Fix: Replace the defective parts determined by the above testing. Don't
forget, if you do end up replacing the Igniter, double check Coil
resistance to avoid damaging a new Igniter.
Tech Tip: No Spark and/or No Injector Pulse on Toyota
Application: 1989-1995 Toyota Pickup & 4-Runner with 3VZE Engine.
Symptom: No Start.
Theory: The Ignition system on this engine uses a Distributor with three
Pick-up Coils inside and an external Igniter and Coil. The ECM uses the
signals generated by the three Pick-ups to control the Igniter, which
controls the negative side of the Coil for spark. The Igniter also sends a
signal back to the ECM for injector pulse.
The Test: The first place to start is to check the Pick-ups inside the
Distributor. If any of them are defective, nothing else is going to work,
not even the tap-test we're going to do later. The first step is to test
resistance on each of the three Pick-ups. You'll want to check them with
the harness unplugged from the Distributor. Identify the terminals on the
Distributor connector using the wire colors on the harness side.
Terminal-1: White..NE signal
Terminal-2: Red..G1 signal
Terminal-3: Black..G2 signal
Terminal-4: Green..G- signal
Between G- and G1, it should be 125 & 200 ohms. Between G- and G2, it
should also be 125 to 200 ohms. Between G- and NE, it should 155 to 250
ohms. All of these resistance specs are at ambient temperature. If checked
on a hot engine, the tolerances go up about 30 ohms. If any one Pick-up
fails the test, it needs to be replaced before any further testing. If all
three Pick-ups pass, we need to do a "tap-test" at the Igniter. Make sure
the connector is plugged back in at the Distributor. Go to the Igniter,
which should be mounted at the Coil. On the Igniter connector, locate the
Black/Blue wire and probe into it with a test-light. With the key on, tap
the alligator clip of the test-light on battery negative and watch for
spark out of the Coil. If you get no response, try tapping the alligator
clip on battery positive, again watching for spark out of the Coil. If
there's no spark in either case, check for battery voltage at the positive
side of the Coil. If that's okay, attach a second test-light from ground to
the negative side of the Coil and redo the tap-test at the Igniter. If the
test-light on Coil negative flashes during the tap-test, and you had
voltage on the positive side, you have a bad Coil. If the second test-light
did not flash on Coil negative, we need to check the remaining wires at the
Igniter. Make sure you have battery voltage on the Black/Red wire at the
Igniter with the key on. If that's okay, make sure you have continuity on
the Black/White wire between the Igniter connector and the negative side of
the Coil. Make sure the Igniter itself is grounded properly to its mounting
surface on the truck, no rust or corrosion. The last check will be to make
sure the Black wire does not show full continuity to ground. This wire goes
to the Tachometer, and if grounded somewhere in the harness, will keep the
Igniter from working. If all of these things pass inspection, chances are
good you have a defective Igniter. Be sure you check resistance on the Coil
to be sure we don't damage a new Igniter. The primary side should be 0.4 to
0.6 ohms. Secondary should be 10,200 to 13,800 ohms.
The Fix: Replace the defective parts determined by the above testing. Don't
forget, if you do end up replacing the Igniter, double check Coil
resistance to avoid damaging a new Igniter.
Do you know where those 4 signal wires go to on the ecu? Mine are all reading out of spec so I'm thinking that I have a short of some kind. I was going to run 4 new wires from the ecu to the distributer to see if that fixes it.
03-02-2024, 09:53 AM
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A friend sent this to me, and it is taken from the Snap-On e-newsletter. I don't know the date on this, but thought it might be helpful to my fellow Toyota owners. Anyone with a 3.0 V6 that can verify that this information is good and useful, I would appreciate it. Hope this is helpful to you guys.
Tech Tip: No Spark and/or No Injector Pulse on Toyota
Application: 1989-1995 Toyota Pickup & 4-Runner with 3VZE Engine.
Symptom: No Start.
Theory: The Ignition system on this engine uses a Distributor with three
Pick-up Coils inside and an external Igniter and Coil. The ECM uses the
signals generated by the three Pick-ups to control the Igniter, which
controls the negative side of the Coil for spark. The Igniter also sends a
signal back to the ECM for injector pulse.
The Test: The first place to start is to check the Pick-ups inside the
Distributor. If any of them are defective, nothing else is going to work,
not even the tap-test we're going to do later. The first step is to test
resistance on each of the three Pick-ups. You'll want to check them with
the harness unplugged from the Distributor. Identify the terminals on the
Distributor connector using the wire colors on the harness side.
Terminal-1: White..NE signal
Terminal-2: Red..G1 signal
Terminal-3: Black..G2 signal
Terminal-4: Green..G- signal
Between G- and G1, it should be 125 & 200 ohms. Between G- and G2, it
should also be 125 to 200 ohms. Between G- and NE, it should 155 to 250
ohms. All of these resistance specs are at ambient temperature. If checked
on a hot engine, the tolerances go up about 30 ohms. If any one Pick-up
fails the test, it needs to be replaced before any further testing. If all
three Pick-ups pass, we need to do a "tap-test" at the Igniter. Make sure
the connector is plugged back in at the Distributor. Go to the Igniter,
which should be mounted at the Coil. On the Igniter connector, locate the
Black/Blue wire and probe into it with a test-light. With the key on, tap
the alligator clip of the test-light on battery negative and watch for
spark out of the Coil. If you get no response, try tapping the alligator
clip on battery positive, again watching for spark out of the Coil. If
there's no spark in either case, check for battery voltage at the positive
side of the Coil. If that's okay, attach a second test-light from ground to
the negative side of the Coil and redo the tap-test at the Igniter. If the
test-light on Coil negative flashes during the tap-test, and you had
voltage on the positive side, you have a bad Coil. If the second test-light
did not flash on Coil negative, we need to check the remaining wires at the
Igniter. Make sure you have battery voltage on the Black/Red wire at the
Igniter with the key on. If that's okay, make sure you have continuity on
the Black/White wire between the Igniter connector and the negative side of
the Coil. Make sure the Igniter itself is grounded properly to its mounting
surface on the truck, no rust or corrosion. The last check will be to make
sure the Black wire does not show full continuity to ground. This wire goes
to the Tachometer, and if grounded somewhere in the harness, will keep the
Igniter from working. If all of these things pass inspection, chances are
good you have a defective Igniter. Be sure you check resistance on the Coil
to be sure we don't damage a new Igniter. The primary side should be 0.4 to
0.6 ohms. Secondary should be 10,200 to 13,800 ohms.
The Fix: Replace the defective parts determined by the above testing. Don't
forget, if you do end up replacing the Igniter, double check Coil
resistance to avoid damaging a new Igniter.
Tech Tip: No Spark and/or No Injector Pulse on Toyota
Application: 1989-1995 Toyota Pickup & 4-Runner with 3VZE Engine.
Symptom: No Start.
Theory: The Ignition system on this engine uses a Distributor with three
Pick-up Coils inside and an external Igniter and Coil. The ECM uses the
signals generated by the three Pick-ups to control the Igniter, which
controls the negative side of the Coil for spark. The Igniter also sends a
signal back to the ECM for injector pulse.
The Test: The first place to start is to check the Pick-ups inside the
Distributor. If any of them are defective, nothing else is going to work,
not even the tap-test we're going to do later. The first step is to test
resistance on each of the three Pick-ups. You'll want to check them with
the harness unplugged from the Distributor. Identify the terminals on the
Distributor connector using the wire colors on the harness side.
Terminal-1: White..NE signal
Terminal-2: Red..G1 signal
Terminal-3: Black..G2 signal
Terminal-4: Green..G- signal
Between G- and G1, it should be 125 & 200 ohms. Between G- and G2, it
should also be 125 to 200 ohms. Between G- and NE, it should 155 to 250
ohms. All of these resistance specs are at ambient temperature. If checked
on a hot engine, the tolerances go up about 30 ohms. If any one Pick-up
fails the test, it needs to be replaced before any further testing. If all
three Pick-ups pass, we need to do a "tap-test" at the Igniter. Make sure
the connector is plugged back in at the Distributor. Go to the Igniter,
which should be mounted at the Coil. On the Igniter connector, locate the
Black/Blue wire and probe into it with a test-light. With the key on, tap
the alligator clip of the test-light on battery negative and watch for
spark out of the Coil. If you get no response, try tapping the alligator
clip on battery positive, again watching for spark out of the Coil. If
there's no spark in either case, check for battery voltage at the positive
side of the Coil. If that's okay, attach a second test-light from ground to
the negative side of the Coil and redo the tap-test at the Igniter. If the
test-light on Coil negative flashes during the tap-test, and you had
voltage on the positive side, you have a bad Coil. If the second test-light
did not flash on Coil negative, we need to check the remaining wires at the
Igniter. Make sure you have battery voltage on the Black/Red wire at the
Igniter with the key on. If that's okay, make sure you have continuity on
the Black/White wire between the Igniter connector and the negative side of
the Coil. Make sure the Igniter itself is grounded properly to its mounting
surface on the truck, no rust or corrosion. The last check will be to make
sure the Black wire does not show full continuity to ground. This wire goes
to the Tachometer, and if grounded somewhere in the harness, will keep the
Igniter from working. If all of these things pass inspection, chances are
good you have a defective Igniter. Be sure you check resistance on the Coil
to be sure we don't damage a new Igniter. The primary side should be 0.4 to
0.6 ohms. Secondary should be 10,200 to 13,800 ohms.
The Fix: Replace the defective parts determined by the above testing. Don't
forget, if you do end up replacing the Igniter, double check Coil
resistance to avoid damaging a new Igniter.
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