chadsy

I posted this on the other site as well as I need help getting this SOB off. I would appreciate any help you guys might be able to give me to get my only vehicle running again before I have to go back to work on Tuesday. I drive a 96 4Runner Sr5 4x4. I noticed my truck beginning to drag a lot on my way from work the other day.

Yesterday I jacked the rear end and found that I have a combo of a rear axle seal leak that caused my shoes to expand and also a seized parking brake AND star adjuster. The wheel is literally locked and won't budge at all.

I must have worked for about 3 hours trying to get the drum off. I PBed the wheel several times, tried the bolt method, and even tried pounding away on the drum itself. I should also mention that the parking break doesn't want to pull up much at all, no clicks, and only travels up a few inches, that sucker is tight! I don't have the parking brake engaged in the cabin but it sure feels like it is and enaged and there's no difference in the tension on/off. It doesn't look as if the PO has EVER taken the drum off this thing. I've only had it for a few months and I'm quickly going to be spending a lot of money on it to get it fit for the road and my kids.

Is it possible to some remove the tension of the parking brake and somehow get it off that way? I really don't have the money to take it to a garage right now. I can afford to purchase new brake hardware, drums, and new shoes if needed. I feel competent being able to install it if I could get the friggin drum off. Thanks in advance.

rworegon

There should be a small clip where the parking brake attaches to the backside of the drum.....pull that clip on both sides and see if theat helps.

Are you sure you are going the right direction with the star adjuster...it's easy to be tightening it when you want to loosen it.

Also, did you try having the bolts putting some tension on the drum while you gave the back edge of the drum some whacks?

chadsy

The adjuster is not wanting to move either way. I did try the bolt method but because the drum is so old and rusty the damn thing started cracking around the threads and one half was already stripped out so I was unable to budge that end. I can maybe try removing the parking brake tomorrow. I really need to get this thing going.

brianh699

Have you tried heating it with a torch? Not the best way but heat will expand the metal and may loosen it up

TheDurk

I will virtually guarantee you that your bellcrank (the pivot lever that goes from the e-brake cable to the inside of the drum) is frozen and is keeping the shoes tight on the drum and therefore your adjuster is useless. Until you get that little sucker to move, that drum is not coming off, not unless you use dynamite. I would get under there and cut off the rubber boot that covers the silly thing, and soak it with PB Blaster. Then start banging it in the direction that gives the e-brake slack. (EDIT: I meant go against the e-brake pull, to give slack INSIDE the drum. Sorry) Figure on replacing the boot, bellcrank, pivot pin and bracket, so you can whale on it pretty good. Torch can help here too. Last resort, saw off the bracket. It's easy to replace once the drum is apart.

Once the wheel will freewheel decently, you can then try to thread two M8x1.25 bolts into the holes in the drum and get it off. If the threads are truly gone drill and tap for the next larger size. But free up the bellcrank first. Really good write up here:

http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...13780049611338

What other site? I didn't see this on T4R.ORG.

chadsy

I put it on t4r.org under the 3rd gen section. Can't get a link right now because the sites down. Durk, I really appreciate your guidance. I'm going to tear into this tomorrow morning and hopefully get it sorted out. Would it be OK to drive without the bell cranks/parking brake if I never use it until I can get the parts shipped here if I'm not able to.save them?

TheDurk

Good question. The brake will work, IF you can get and keep it adjusted. There will be no self-adjustment without the bellcranks/e-brake, including on initial set-up. So you will have to do it all with the star wheels through the back. Never tried it that way myself--it would be a PIA but I'd guess you could get it done. Your e-brake hasn't been working for a while, from the sound of things.

I misspoke, you want to push the bellcrank AGAINST the e-brake cable pull, to create slack INSIDE the drum. So bash the bellcrank lever end with the adjusting screw so the end of the screw gets tight against the drum. Sorry about that. If the cable has tension, you may want to either get it off, or try loosening it inside the cab.

Yeah, I can't get on T4R.org either, but I didn't see this earlier. I always go there first.

Here is the exploded view of the drum:

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-...r/rdb/comp.pdf

There is one other scenario. And you could conceivably have both. If the bellcrank tension is relieved, and the drum is still held by the shoes, you might have swollen shoes, usually because oil has leaked past the axle seals, and gotten on the shoes. (Yes, oil causes the drums to lock, which is counter-intuitive.) Since the shoes get bigger than new, your adjuster can't deal with it. I hope this isn't the case.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

The top of the bell crank has to be moved toward the backing plate.

DRCOFFEE

If the parking brake handle wont rise more than a few inches, I'm guessing the star wheel has been adjusted too tight. If you can't loosen it, you will probably have to cut off the drum. That said, You should be able get a screwdriver in the adjustor wheel hole and lift the ratchet off the star wheel and adjust it open. Use the opposite wheel for reference.

chadsy

just wanted to thank everyone for their advice. I did manage to break the drum free and get the wheels unlocked. the parking brake was on their pretty tight and I lubed the bell crank to keep it from seizing again.