I was just reading over the tech for coil and shock installation on a second Gen and i was wondering why after everything was installed did uk meyers then bleed the breaks. I'd like to be doing the mod soon and know everything i can in advance. thanks

 

The brakes have to be bled because of the longer stainless steel brake line that needs to be installed. That brake line comes with the Downey kit if you go that route. Hope that helps.

 

just remember this rule of thumb:

If you break open a line, the system has to be bled, or at least the wheel you broke that line at, best to do them all to be on the safe side though.

 

Dont forget the rear proportioning valve will need bleeding when changing out the brake line.

 

Good responses guys 95 Toy the Downey set up comes with a longer stainless line that goes to the proportioning valve. When you disconnect the old one air can and will get into the line. Once done bleed in this order Right Or left wheel doesn't matter but bleed both wheels and then the proportioning valve. Good luck with the mod. BTW the longer brake line is really not needed but it's good to have. I know a guy with the coils and the spacer kit using the stock line but he is at risk of ripping the line off if he ever does a really radical flex...(is that possible on a stock set up).,.haha

 

Not to mention smacking the gas tank with the driveshaft

 

Downeys' instructions mention flattening the seam on the gas tank skid plate to avoid hitting. When I am at full flex in the rear there's about 1/8" of clearance before I hit still and I never changed anything back there on the skid plate

 

Is it true that when you bleed a brake system you start from the farthest point from the master cylinder & work closer?(e.g.back right 1,back left 2,front right 3,front left 4)

 

That's how I do it.

 

do you disconnect your rear swaybar? the first time i flexed out my rear end after the downey i hadnt flatted the gastank skid and boy can you tell where they rubbed. no idea if having the swaybar on will prevent that. i went under and looked and apparently my driveshaft flattened a spot for me

id recommend getting some more clearance just for good measure, dunno if that hurt my driveshaft or not. only time will tell



bleeding the brakes is no big deal, takes like 3 min with a buddy to help you

 

Thanks for all the great feedback guys,

 

That's not always true. Consult the FSM for the correct sequence. Our Accord is not as you mentioned above.

 

with my OME's I don't. I just pull both lower shock mounts. support each side of the frame in front of the wheel well with jackstands at there highest, and sit on the drum to flex the axle down and then I slip the spring in, then go do the other side the same way. I admit I do have to contort a little to get in there. I am only 6' and 195lbs though so I not a big dude, so I think the regular homoerectus should be able to do it this way too.