I'm having trouble finding both sides and/or complete spindles with hubs to do the conversion. I was wondering if I could just buy a few new non-ADD Tacoma hubs new (Toyota part #43502-04030) and a pair of Aisin hubs used (easy to find under $125/pair) and do it that way.

It might cost slightly more (~$25), but I was just wondering if you need anything else off the Tacoma hub aside from the actual wheel hub/flange...

 

Do it yourself Tacoma Manual Hub Swap to a 1996-2002 4Runner

 

Thats the article I'm using, but I'm wondering if you need the Tacoma spindles for anything else aside from the wheel hubs.

 

Well, I went through nearly every match on car-part.com for the spindles/hubs that were less than $150/ea but wasn't able to find a complete pair. I figure if I spend more than $150/ea for the spindles it would cost more (with shipping) than just the Aisin hubs and new wheel hubs.

So I just ordered a pair of low mileage Aisin hubs for $83 shipped, but now I need to know if I can do the swap with just the brand new Tacoma wheel hubs, new spline washers, hub nuts and new snap rings. Or is there something else needed from the Tacoma spindle. Anyone have any insight on this?

 

I'm gathering all the parts right now for the same conversion, and it seems like the 4wd knuckles come in either abs or non-abs versions for each left and the right sides. For the manual hubs i think we need the non-abs version since the abs will no longer work with the manual hubs. I was lucky and found some knuckles from a junkyard in Sacramento, but one of them was frozen. I ordered a new hub and all the other parts needed from the sonoransteel article. Hopefully replacing all the pieces inside the knuckle will make it good enough to use. Let me know if you find anything different, i've just been searching the trdparts4u.com replacement parts catalog for new parts as a backup.

 

I botched the whole idea. Turns out the manual hub axles are considerably weaker than ADD axles, plus they're more expensive, harder to change on the trail and can destroy the expensive Aisin hubs when they go...

 

Where did you find this out? Why would the non-ADD be any weaker?

 

First off, you can still have ABS with manual hubs, second, Midget96 is correct, manual hubs are far weaker than ADD set-up. The simple answer is the weak link is the axle and the hub itself. Most cases the axles breaks in the hub or the coupler breaks. then it takes a lot longer to swap out axles.....

 

If you have ADD now, just sliding hubs on like the last gen trucks/4Runners wont work. You will need new wheel hubs, both new axles plus the free wheeling hubs.

 

I understand they're different, and what's different, I've just never heard that manual hubs were weaker. Or, if they were, weaker with any significance to justify a note about them being weaker. Most of what I've seen indicated that manual hubs in general are stronger.

But, I'm new to Toyota axle/hub info. What specifically is the weaker link in the manual hub setup? Midget96 implies the axle shaft itself is weaker, which I don't understand at all. Unless the axle shaft has a smaller diameter than an ADD shaft, that would be the only thing I can think, but why would that be?

 

With the manual hub set-up there is a "C"-clip inside the locking hub, to do this, they have to cut a groove in the axle to retain the clip. This is where the break occurs. The ADD set-up NEVER breaks an axle in that location, therefore they are stronger.

 

Gotcha, ok. I didn't realize they had c-clips there.

Thanks!

 

Since this sounds common I'll pay $25 for a stub axle broke at that C-clip groove. This offer is for someone in So Cal that I can pick the axle up from without adding shipping cost.

PM me I have the $s.

 

I've weighed the benefits of manual hubs versus the negatives, and there's no contest. I have a CO2 inflation system, so removing one huge nut on the ADD axle is much easier than trying to tap out a bunch of cone washers on the trail and deal with a removing a manual axle. And if the axle destroyed the hub, then you're SOL. That and the .2 MPG of gas mileage you get back aren't worth the weaker front end and trouble of trying to find a shop that can do your wheel bearings without destroying the parts...

Look around on TTORA for better details on this conversion. I believe the shaft itself is also weaker on the manual hub axles as well as one of the tripods in the CV...

 

the shafts themselves are thinner than the ADD shafts by 1/8" i think? maybe more. the flanged ends of the ADD shafts are quite strong..and breakage almost always occurs in the joints/tulips themselves. i also contemplated swapping, but in the end, i stayed with the ADD setup. stronger, easier trail fix, and hey..not spending more money on things you dont need to is also cool...

 

Bump

Nobody have a broken axle? Or just don?t need the $? Someone here must know someone who has broke an outer stub axle.

I'll have some time this weekend to pick it up, otherwise I won?t have time till mid June.

 

You have to go here for info:

www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/

You might find 5 people on yotatech that have done this conversion, but there's a ton more on TTORA.