95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners
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lower ball joint write up...

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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 02:45 PM
  #1  
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lower ball joint write up...

looking for a write up on replacing the lower ball joints on a 97 4Runner. I dont know what I would do without this website honestly...
thanks
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 05:44 PM
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From: 5th Gen San Diegan, California
1) Jack and support front frame with jackstands (so A arm/suspension free to move)
2) Remove wheel
3) Remove 4 bolts holding spindle (verticle section with brake and hub assembly) from below....
4) Remove big ball joint nut, and get a ball joint puller or gear puller, and pull the ball joint from its socket on the lower A-arm
5) Slide your new one in, and torque to spec. Put 4 bolts back in to secure the spindle (use blue loc-tite on them)
Done!
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Old Apr 16, 2010 | 10:26 AM
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arrright then, sounds and looks easy. i read this as i was looking at my 4Runner. thanks
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Old Apr 16, 2010 | 10:45 AM
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Lowers are way easier than the uppers. I just used a pickle fork and a hammer and they pooped loose with a little persuation. The nice part is you don't press them back in, they just slide in and you bolt them up. I recommend getting an alignment after you change them out.
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Old Apr 16, 2010 | 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by BajaRunner
(use blue loc-tite on them)
Most important thing to remember
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Old Apr 16, 2010 | 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by brian2sun
Lowers are way easier than the uppers. I just used a pickle fork and a hammer and they pooped loose with a little persuation.
I know its imature, but I can't help it
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Old Apr 16, 2010 | 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Mauzer
I know its imature, but I can't help it
LMAO! It smelled awful too hahaha.
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Old Apr 16, 2010 | 01:43 PM
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http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=1752
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Old Apr 16, 2010 | 02:02 PM
  #9  
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http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53032

I read this thread. Took a few hours to complete
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Old Apr 16, 2010 | 03:37 PM
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Be sure to keep the recites from harbor freight if you go that route, I broke two of their pitman arms trying this with those. Glad I picked up a pickle fork while I was there for only like another $5, it became my best friend after i broke those pitman arms. Here are some of the links I found helpful. I included the for the uppers too just in case you decide to do those too. Be sure to use blue locktight on the 4 lower bolts I hear they can wiggle their way out. Also be sure have to penetrating spray on hand to help pop those out. And also if you have a compressor an air hammer that helped a ton especially on the upper ones(as seen in the youtube video). One thing that I got a little confused on was do I let the lower A-arm hang loose or do I support it. When removing the lowers I let it hang while the vehicle was on blocks but not much I had the jack (or anything would work really like a wood block or something) ready just beneath it to keep it from falling down too hard when it came loose. One the uppers I supported it from the lower a-arm and just let the upper one pop up. One last thing I found helpful was to have zip ties to keep stuff from moving around and in your way (as mentioned in the bajataco article and a very larger screwdriver to wedge between the coils and hold the weight of the caliper and knuckle during the installation of the new lower joint. best wishes
http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.ph...ght=Ball+Joint
http://www.parksoffroad.com/tacomamo.../balljoint.htm
http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum...ad.php?t=58068
http://www.bajataco.com/tech/control_arms_01.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7xHemQiMTZ8

Last edited by survivorman97; Apr 16, 2010 at 03:44 PM.
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Old May 16, 2010 | 11:40 AM
  #11  
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From: delaware
Who makes the best ball joints to use in a 98 4Runner? I was under mine and I think i'll be replacing the ball joints when i put in new axles. After my honeymoon, of course.

Thanks
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Old May 16, 2010 | 12:17 PM
  #12  
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OEM, use NO other make (Moog, TRW, etc.).

Others can chime in about the horror stories of not using OEM or use the search engine.

It is not hard to do, just make sure one has the right puller, long cable ties, and Blue Loctite......
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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 11:41 AM
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With the 4 bolts connecting the spindle to the lower ball joint out, how much should the lower control arm move with the shock still connected?

Backstory:
I'm putting OME shocks and Tundra coils in, and the lower ball joints are spitting grease, so I'll be replacing those too (on order). The truck has 160,000 miles on it and has had a 2" cornfed spacer since 77k. I attempted to use a top out spacer, but with the extra length of the OME shock, I couldn't get the LCA low enough, even after removing the 4 bolts and using the bottle jack on the UCA.

I can get the OME shocks in there without the top out spacer. But when I try to reconnect the lower BJ to the spindle using the jack under it, it jacks the whole truck up, not just the LCA. Am I doing something wrong?
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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 12:05 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by J2F42C
OEM, use NO other make (Moog, TRW, etc.).

Others can chime in about the horror stories of not using OEM or use the search engine.

It is not hard to do, just make sure one has the right puller, long cable ties, and Blue Loctite......
Uhh, moog is one of the best manufacturers of ball joint and suspension products. I've never heard of a horror story when using moog ball joints. I'm actually in the process of doing my upper and lower ball joints. I'm replacing the OE stuff with moog. Nothing wrong with moog.


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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by scuba
Uhh, moog is one of the best manufacturers of ball joint and suspension products. I've never heard of a horror story when using moog ball joints. I'm actually in the process of doing my upper and lower ball joints. I'm replacing the OE stuff with moog. Nothing wrong with moog.


My new MOOG BJs are total crap, here's another recent thread were I tell my story (post #11):

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...joints-213847/

Last edited by brian2sun; Jun 15, 2010 at 01:30 PM.
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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 01:24 PM
  #16  
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I will see if my friend still has the pics of his right Moog lower BJ going after 14,000 miles. Not a pretty site for his Tacoma but thankfully he was going 10mph on a back road. Brian and Fogrunner's personal testimonies (I have never used Moog on my 4runner) should be enough for all to stay away from everything but OEM...

I will say that I have used both Moog and TRW ball joints on domestic trucks/SUVs with good success, but thanks to this board and my friend's experience, OEM ball joints were the only ones going on my 4 runner.
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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 06:23 PM
  #17  
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I have read a bunch on suspension components prior to making up my decision...

I will be purchasing OEM Balljoints, but will purchase MOOG for other parts if cheaper than OEM.

Its not only Toyotas that have issues with there balljoints, but other makes and models.

Last edited by etc.; Feb 1, 2011 at 06:24 PM.
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Old May 12, 2011 | 06:34 PM
  #18  
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The moog ball joints for my truck didn't have grease zerks, and were about the same price as OEM. FAIL! I went oem.
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