Everything went smoothly and it only took 3 hours for only one side. A little scary being my first time but very smooth.

 

Cool! Glad to hear something went well w/o too many problems

 

Yeah, I'm getting pretty good at it myself. I think I can remove the axle in 30 minutes now and probably replace the boots in another 30 minutes. Next time, I'm going to try to remove the axle without taking off the tire.

Checkout my pictures in the "ah apartment life" thread in the off topic area.

 

I've found that it is actually MORE expensive to replace the boot(s) as opposed to the entire CV, since lifetime replcaement shafts only cost $30 at Checker in AZ...

I'm kind of curious if I would be able to replace the studs on the front diff where the CV shaft attches with bolts so I wouldn't have to unhook my entire car to get the damn thing out... I've heard about it but has anybody done it?

 

Yeah I was thinking about replacing the entire shaft but the joint looked very good inside.

Yeah has anybody ever tried replacing the studs with bolts? That would make it very simple to just slid the axle out. What could go wrong with it? Maybe put a locking nut or lock washer on it and I dont think there would be a problem?

 

Anyone ever use leather boots?
Was thinking of getting a set.

 

Also, is there a writeup on the boot change?
Both of my inner boots are ripped and I would rather not have to pay someone.

 

I've replaced 2 of the studs with bolts, that's how I can remove the axle in less than 30 minutes.

I followed the FSM instruction to replace the boots, pretty easy but messy.

 

The studs do push out--when my buddy and I did both of my axles recently he used an air hammer to pop them all out. They have splines that hold them in there tight. We were abble to chance the axle without messing with the lower ball joint---I think air tools are needed though.

 

Hey Robinhood,That fsm is vol.3 ?I just bought 1 & 2 and no chassis info.

 

i just changed my first on on tuesday, a little under two hours after we got the dust cap off we were half way done..ADD=two many little parts to mess with

 

Thanks to many here, including Robinhood150, I changed my left axel out because of an outer cvboot tear within 2 hours. It really is not that difficult and I did not use air tools. I lossened the six 17 mm bolts that connected the differential to the axel. This was about 100 lbs of torque. Luckily I had a long breaker bar which helped getting the bolt off, took the tire off because of easier access to the boot, the dust cap and c clip, left the brakes on, took off the sway bar connection, removed the shocks (becareful the suspension will drop, and removed the axel towards the direction of the engine and below the differential. It took me longer because I had to figure out what the sway bar was and how to remove the shocks. Otherwise, it was not difficult at all. I purchased a whole rebuilt axel for $55.00. It only had a one year warranty though. The only problem I ran into was the brake line. It was just long enough for the suspension to drop so that I can remove the axel. If your brake line is not long enough, good luck. My brother helped me...thanks bro. Try to get some help because it can get tricky when the suspension drops. I plan to do a write up with pictures by this weekend. Oh, try not to remove the brakes. This will save you a big headache.

Thanks all.

 

Not sure, I'm actually using the fsm on CD. Basically it just says how to disassemble the axle itself (easy), which grease to use in which boot, and what the overall length the axle is supposed to be adjusted to.

 

Here's how I envision removing the axle next time:

1. removed the tire (optional?), hub, gold bolt and C-clip.
2. disconnected the sway bar (QDs) and shock.
3. removed the upper bumpstop (important) so the A-arms can droop more
4. unbolted the axle (2 studs already replaced with bolts)
5. jack up the truck by the frame or crossmember so that the A-arms reach max droop
6. easily slide axle out where the 2 bolts were removed.

No need to remove the ball joint, calipers or anything so drastic.

 

I didnt disconnect the sway bar or remove the bumpstop but i did take the shock out. If you use a floor jack and jack the a arm up and down and get someone to turn the steering wheel. You can play with it and then it will just fall out. Just kinda tricky.

 

The bumbstop is the keyword there. It makes a world of difference.

 

Here is how I did it, by myself.
1. removed the tire, hub, gold bolt and C-clip.
2. disconnected the sway bar and shock.
3. Removed ball joint bolt and pop ball joint with a pitman arm puller.
4. unbolted the CV joint. using a wrench on bolt side and socket on nut side.
5. Pryed lower a A-arms down to remove ball joint.
6. easily slide axle out.