Yes, the 3.0 I'm pulling from my 4runner is seized up. Therefore, I don't see any way to get to all the bolts of the torque converter to unbolt it from the flywheel. SO I assume I'll be pulling the engine with the torque converter still hooked to the flywheel. Should this work? Also, does anyone know if I'll be able to get to the bolts on the flyweel so I can get the torque converter off of it once I indeed have it out? Or will I have to dismantle it and get the crankshaft out to reach these bolts? Thanks!

 

Yes, it can be pulled if you pull straight foreward about 5" or so to get the splines clear. A lot of oil will come out of it, so be ready with a pan and some mess (kitty litter works). You MIGHT be able to get to the bolts. I know the last one I had out had very tight clearance between flex plate and block.

Good luck.

 

Thanks. I'll probably use my oil pan that holds about 8-10 quarts, this should be plenty I assume right?

 

Yeah, the coverter holds about 4-5 quarts.

Note: when you go to re-install the converter, gently put it onto the input shaft of the trans. Then, rotating it slowly, it should line up with 3 (I think) sets of splines. You should feel it as it engages the spline and then slips down to the next spline. It is put onto the trans first, then the engine assembled to it, then bolt the flexplate to the converter (through the starter hole)

 

Thanks a ton! I'm in the middle of trying to separate the tranny/engine right now. It's quite a fight. I see the guides have separated, but it just wont let go!. I'm going to head back out to wrestle with it some more now. Leave any tips you may think of for this as well!

 

You should be able to pull the engine with the converter attached, but you will have to have enough room to pull the unit straight forward from the trans at least 5-8" until it completely clears the trans. You want to be careful though. If the converter doesn't come straight forward from the trans, you could put any stress on the imput and stator shafts on the front of the trans and you might do damage to them. If you can pull the engine pan, you might be able to loosen the rod and main bearing caps and get the crank to turn enough to undo the converter bolts. I would avoid pulling the engine with the converter attached if at all possible, too many things could go bad.

 

I agree it is dangerous to try to pull it attached but it certainly has been done. Worst case you can leave it all attached and pull them both (engine and tranny) as a unit. If the block seized up, first pull all the plugs out of the engine, then rotate the crank in the opposite direction of normal rotation. You could also pull the oil pan to see if you can see where it is binding or if one of the pistons has siezed. You might try loosening the bearing caps too as was menioned.