aa1911

iTrader: (1)

Wow, thanks for the info; I will also be using B/A for my 4runner FF for sure; I've never had issues with Fram's oil filters (I use the tough guard, not sure if it really is any better though) but then again I'm changing oil every 4k miles religiously. I will be looking for a better filter from now on... thanks

Ken

The OEM fuel filter runs ~$40. For me, it seemed reasonable for something that's changed every ~100K miles.

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

for sure; any filter should be changed at some point in my opinion. after reading the oil filter reviews/study I will be using the purolator pure one in my tacoma and 4runner. Part number for the 5vz is PL10241 and are available for about $7-8

hdoggie24

so who makes the oem toyota fuel filter??

Ron Helmuth

OEM Toyota filter is made by Nippodenso.

I am changing mine out now and going on hour 4. I can not make the front flared line/compression fitting not leak. Not just a drop or two but lots... I counted my threads showing front and rear before I started and they are the same now but still it leaks like a mutha...

Do we all agree the rear fuel line is able to be pushed back from the filter?

I'm considering just doing away with the bracket all together, can anyone tell me why that won't work? I am without a vehicle until I can get this put back together.

I thought this would take an hour tops...It's making me feel like a complete moron. It threads up nicely by hand on both ends but from there only tightens a hair and is really frustrating me.

85 PICKUP

I picked up a MANN filter for my 1999 Runner. I was on Amazon doing so B-day shopping and came across one for $12 with free super saver shipping. Mann's fairly popular in the Euro world and it fit pretty good. However, if I did it again I would probably have gone OEM just because the truck has 164k on it and I will more than likely never change the filter again in its lifetime. The Mann leaked a little at first at the front fitting, got in there and snugged it down and it stopped.

TheDurk

My fear is you may have crossed a thread and now need a new filter and/or flare nut. Have you tried undoing the bracket and the rear fitting and starting with the balky front one? Make sure the collar is at the correct depth and use two wrenches.

If that doesn't work, you need new pieces.

On fillters: I have been using NAPA Gold on all kinds of different vehicles since the early 1970's and I have never lost an engine, except a 30-year old Mercedes that
my mother drove without coolant. ("Oh, I saw a green puddle in the parking lot.")

Ron Helmuth

ding ding ding correct answer- The Durk has it exactly right. I was failing to secure the filter body with a larger size wrench on the nut housing at each end. I avoided damaging the threads and the flare end of the fuel lines, but was not getting enough torque(?) on the compression fitting using just the 14mm wrench.

Most appreciated sir. I had the nice guys of Irbis Off Road show me the real skinny this AM and was glad to pay some money to learn the real technique. I simply spliced in some rubber fuel hose to join together the 2 fuel lines and eliminate the fuel filter until I could drive over to my buds shop.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...ngeout-212144/

This writeup was a little short on specifics:

http://www.4runners.org/writeups/fuelfilter/index.html

but now I am glad to be schooled and able to help anyone achieve a leak free replacement.

TheDurk

I started my wrenching on tractors. Hard fuel lines I understand. Still took me a few tries to get that filter in. Glad you made it right; rubber was probably not a good idea down there.

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

picked up 6 pure one purolators for the 5vz a couple weeks ago for less than $30 delivered from Amazon! great bargain in my opinion, cheaper than going to schucks or wherever (the 3vz and 5vz share filters lucky for me!)

pendrag

I was checking out the local ReTool (a used tools consignment shop) just to see what they had, and I came across some crow's foot wrenches for $2/ea and picked up a few sizes. I wasn't really paying attention, since they were so cheap, but when I got home, I noticed they were the open style, rather than the flared style crow's foot, which I don't think will be quite as useful. I'll find something else to do with them eventually, I suppose. I think I'll probably go locate a flared wrench for this project, though.

Open crow's foot wrench:


Flared Crow's Foot:


Flare Wrenches:

98SR54RUNNER

iTrader: (1)

I changed mine last week, took about 20 minutes and only had one start/leak/refitting of the nuts.

I'm surprised so many people have had trouble with the filter and the nuts, mine went on and off fairly easily. I just used an adjustable wrench, but I guess if you are rusted out or the filter has been there for 10 years (which it probably has) you might need the crows wrench.

BTW, if you haven't done this, you definitely should. My filter was full of brown sludge and what came out looked nasty. Hard to believe they can call this a "lifetime" part. I will be changing them out on my family's runners next time I'm home.

Ron Helmuth

pendrag thanks for the visual of the differing types of wrench ends that is most helpful.

98SR5-do you agree with concept that the filter nut on the body needs held with one wrench while the 14mm snugs down the compression fitting yes? that was the issue giving me grief...we're all learning.

J2F42C

it now idles better, with a little more quicker throttle response. 30 minutes taking our time with little fuel spilled. The fuel that came out the filter with 114,xxx miles was black as Texas gold. Gloves, eye protectant, vapor mask are necessary items in my mind. Two filters for $25 at NAPA. As easy as this was, I am changing mine now every 4 years.

Just some observations on procedure:
1. Depressurize the fuel system by removing the gas cap the night before.
2. Clean, clean around all fittings and nuts. Spray some PB blaster around fittings.
3. Take a 14mm flare nut wrench and loosen the front, then back fuel line bolt on the filter. A little fuel should spill so catch it.
4. Push both front and back the fuel line plastic 3 holder clamps as far away from the filter as possible in order to have looser fuel lines. You can see these in previous posted pics for this thread. It makes removing the filter easier.
5. Pull out both fuel lines for the filter and try to angle them up so as not to spill any fuel. Remove the bracket with a 10mm 6pt socket and take the old filter out.

Installation observations:
1. Take note on the location of the bracket on the old fuel filter. Remove the bracket and put on new filter. Bolt on to frame.
2. In connecting the fuel lines to the new filter, I could feel the flared end of both fuel lines mate with/recess into the new filter so I knew there was a good connection.
3. Hand tighten both fuel lines nuts to ensure a good seal. Bring the fuel line clamps back to their original position to take the slack out of the fuel line. Then while securing the filter with a 19mm flare nut wrech, tighten the fuel line nut with a 14mm flare nut. Do for both sides. 21 ft/lbs of torque.
4. Check for leaks.

Evilmunkey

nice thanks for the write up, glad I invested in a set of GearWrench Flex-Heads. . Also A wratcheting Open end wrench would work too. .

fibercarbon

What brand should i go with as of 2014 to change the fuel filter on my 97 4runner SR5 V6/ how long does it take to change? Do you need to change anything else like fuel injectors?

stir_fry_boy

I would get a dealer filter. I once used a WIX which is second to none in quality and it still leaked. I only use dealer filters now. It takes about 10-15 min for me. Unless you are having some check engine lights come on for cylinders misfiring, you don't need to change any injectors.

3rdGen_4Runner

You need a 14mm flarenut wrench, a 19mm wrench and a 12mm shortwell socket for the bracket
that'swhat I used

75w90mantraN

Or vice grips.

Funny how some complain. Access is one of the easiest. And no crush washers. They should try changing one on a 90s Honda Accord. Only one tight space to view the bottom fitting and then the tools and your arms block the view so its basically done blind with barely ANY room. And no fancy flare/flex/ratcheting wrench fits. Only crowsfeet with 12" extensions.

The only thing to complain about this is the neighbor's gripes about smelling fuel from your garage.

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

Yes, or changing one on a 3RZ. Once the alternator is out it's not *that* bad