Help with wiring a DPDT switch
#21
ok, i'll do that then, but wouldnt the AC be on a pole and C on a throw? like this:
M<----| o o | (empty)
12V-->| o o | <--A/C Clutch
+ <----| o o | ---> C
or am i all wrong?
M<----| o o | (empty)
12V-->| o o | <--A/C Clutch
+ <----| o o | ---> C
or am i all wrong?
Last edited by garrett1478; 07-31-2005 at 11:51 AM.
#24
Registered User
(copying this to the 2nd page for easier reference):
One thing that we/you need to be sure of is which of "+" or "B" is the drain for the motors. I think it's the "+" lead, and "B" is just to power the controller.
Whichever it is, you don't want to put a switch on that lead - like Roger pointed out, it'll be high current (my fans were drawing about 17 amps). That's gonna cause some heat behind the dash and push the current rating of a normal switch.
If you want to switch the motor power source, you'll need to rig a 30amp relay under the hood.
One thing that we/you need to be sure of is which of "+" or "B" is the drain for the motors. I think it's the "+" lead, and "B" is just to power the controller.
Whichever it is, you don't want to put a switch on that lead - like Roger pointed out, it'll be high current (my fans were drawing about 17 amps). That's gonna cause some heat behind the dash and push the current rating of a normal switch.
If you want to switch the motor power source, you'll need to rig a 30amp relay under the hood.
#25
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a good way to think of DPDT switches are that they are simply 2 SPST switches thrown with the same pole.. so.. if the switch needs a ground and +12V line, why not just run 12V on one side, and ground on the other? I assume you're trying to turn on 2 devices and not a signal.. in which case this won't work.
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