A few days I posted a thread about my rear left brake binding up. Well I get a call last night saying that even with the brake drums removed there is some binding when the axle spins forward, but none spinning backwards, and it only happens to the left wheel. I said there was no way there is a diff problem, the damn thing only had 55k miles on it, it's never been off-road or in an accident.

The symptoms are exactly what you'd expect if you had a locking up brake, you put it in drive and that one wheel holds you in place. The reason I have my doubts is that when I felt it bind up I adjusted the brake shoes all the way leaving me little to know brake pressure but I didn't have any binding issues. The first time they had it they said they bled the system and adjusted the shoes. Then it starting binding again.

Any thoughts? I'm no expert on these 4Runner axles and diffs but it seems illogical they could fail with such low miles.

(2000 4WD w/ 55k miles)

 

Sounds like they are just trying to get money. If you slacked of the brakes and it was ok, then they adjusted it and said it was back. I would get it back and check it myself. You are going to have some drag trying to spin it by hand even if it is an open diff.
I would jack it up so both tires are off the ground and see what it does, one tire should spind foward one in reverse see how it feels.
Then pull the drums on both sides and try it see what you get.

A freind of mine took his truck to the dealer and they said he needed a clutch fan and a belt. His fan was fine but it was some fast money if they charged him for a $200 fan clutch just to swap a belt. They were going to charge him $400

 

It seems that sometimes the rear adjusters can get "stuck" sometimes, causing the adjuster to keep pushing the shoe closer to the drum without pulling the parking brake. I had this happen to me so I pulled the rear brakes apart. After cleaning and greasing up the bellcranks the problem went away.

I had the same symptoms though, the wheels would spin freely if I adjust the brakes all the way out but if I set the adjustment correctly, they would start binding after a day or two of driving.

I would definitely be skeptical of the dealership's advice on your differential. Take it to someone that specializes in rear ends if you are that worried about it. In my experience, the dealerships and general mechanics a lot of times don't know too much about them.

 

Get a professional 2nd opinion some where else. Take it to another mechanic and get a 2nd opinion but don't tell them about the dealership's diagnosis. Then when it turns out they were lying to you at the dealership, take the actual repair ticket back to the dealership service manager and let the arse chewing begin.

 

I am in doubt myself. I would think if the diff was shot it would be an all or nothing affair. Not working fine one day but not the next. I would also suspect there would be some hellacious noise associated with a failed diff.

The brakes were definitely locked in place when I had it at home one day. Once I backed the shoes in the axle would spin freely.

 

UPDATE...

They disconnected the drive shaft and the rear axle/diff spun freely. Now they're suspecting an issue with the transmission or the transfer case.

 

how is the tranny going to affect ONE tire?!>

 

Step away from the dealership........
They can get more $$$$$$ out of the tranny than the rear end

 

Yea,something is not adding up...I suspect brake/e-brake problem..possible wheel bearing,but it would have to be really bad to drag...almost sounds like axle seal leak is swealling up that brake shoe,or e-brake is hanging on that side.....

 

I've got it back home, not sure what to do next, no real diagnosis other than it doesn't have a problem when the drive shaft was disconnected.

 

My '93 pickup had a similar issue. It turned out to be the E brake was stuck in the engaged position. It was only the rear passenger side wheel that was binding up. I had to whack the inside of the wheel with a mallot. Problem fixed.

 

u r getting boned



disconnecting the driveshaft won't do a damn thing and has
nothing to do with one wheel binding...

[unless the driveshaft slip joint was frozen and pushing into the diff,
which would not be the case. you'd have vibrations and clunking]

 

Why are you taking it to a dealership?? The Yota is out of warranty which means NEVER take it back to the dealership unless you're trading it in. Find a reputable transmission guy.