I bought a set of fog lights and got a wiring harness directly from Toyota it's part number 00550-89970. I hooked everthing up as per the directions but no light. The switch Toyota gave with the kit has three prongs on it. There are only two wires that come through the fire wall. I have a ground and a wire to the switch. It seems to me I'm missing a hot lead to the switch. Am I on the right track?

The harness came with a lead to the battery and a ground, a fuse and the relay plug. I went with the Toyota harness to avoid these problems but no such luck. Anyone have any ideas what I'm missing. Should there be a power lead comming into the switch? When I look at the harness the red wire goes from the battery to the relay plug. There is a green wire that goes from the lights to the relay plug and the black which is ground. Out of the relay I have the ground and a yellow wire that the instructions say goes to the switch. When I hook it in I get nothing.

 

Compliments of Correy:

 

most switches have a postive(+) terminal, negative(-) terminal, and some sort of on/off lead, sometimes called a hot-lead or a switch lead. the toyota switch i got for my IPF lights had a long SMALL yellow wire for the hot-lead. just run that wire to your fuse box on your driver side kick panel and find a fuse that fits what application you want. i chose the ingnition fuse since i wanted to be able to turn my accesory roof lights on anytime the ignition was on, but NEVER when it was off. just shove teh wire into the fuse holding spot and re-insert the fuse and you're off ! the switch will NEVER work unless you give it some sort of juice through the hot line

 

So if I understand correctly, the relay will not work unless it is getting power from the switch? I thought the relay got it's power from the battery due to the fact that the red wire goes from the battery to the relay.

To fix my problem all I need to do is run a hot lead from the fuse box to the switch and I should have light, correct?

 

The relay needs 12v to "energize" it, that is what turns it on.

The way I wire all of my switches it "live" so I don't need a key on, and this way you have full control over the lights to come on anytime you want.

Did you see this write-up too?

I do things a little different than the way Hella tells you to, and I have a scan of their instructions in the above link.

They like you to use the "energizer" hot wire coming from your headlights.
Either the low or highbeam, depending on if you use fogs or driving lamps.

That's fine for some, but as stated above, I want full control over my lights, so I wire the hot lead that goes to the switch live.
I use to "plug" that wire into the fuse box in the cab, but it soon became a jungle.
I have another write-up linked on the above page how I fixed my jungle.

 

Thanks Corey, I rpinted out your write up and will have it on hand tonight when I tackle this thing again. Based on what I've said so far, am I right in assuming that all I need to do now is run a "hot" wire from the fuse panel to the switch and I'll have light? Will this also power the light within the switch?

 

Whatever you do don't jump it to the Ign 7.5amp fuse in the box. I did and blew a fuse under the hood and had to wait until the next day and go to about 5 different auto stores here to find a 30A jcase cartridge fuse because everybody carried it but had none.

 

That's the way I finally got my LightForce 170's wired.

 

What fuse did you tap?

 

Success!!! Thanks to everyone here. I ran a line from the switch to the fuse panel and bingo lights! I didn't realize how small the fuses were on a 2001 and I couldn't run the tap next to the fuse so I used an open port. That won't cause any problems will it?

 

I ran it to the positive terminal on my Kenwood Sirius Satellite Receiver. I had run an "always on" hot line to it since the Kenwood headunit controls the power internally. That way I can work the lights without the keys in the ignition or the headlights. here's my wiring diagram.