Haven't gotten defenite answer to my Q. Just thought I'd ask. Anyway, I have ADD (not me the 4-runner) I wanna put manual hubs, do I need IFS hub or Solid axle. Or does it matter? I doubt it matters but I just wanna defenite answer before I buy.

Another question, I work at Napa and we sell Amsoil products. A question is, are there air filters better then K&N, I was gonna put a K&N on it, but if Amsoil breathes better and filters better I'll go with that. Next what about there Oil filters, I usually run Toyota filters on my rig, but was thinking about going full Amsiol XL-7500 10W30 synthetic, with an amsoil filter. Should I consider this with 155k on my 3.0? Doesn't leak or burn oil, my boss (who swears by Amsoil) Said I should flush the engine and run Amsoil synthetic in it, and offered to do a test. speed up to 40mph and in neutral see how long it takes to stop, after all fluids changed with Amsoil, if it don't go 20% farther she'd pay for it all. Just want some opinions, I wanna make this last a long time, I wanna squeeze every little mile I can oughta the gas tank. Right now I average about 17 in town, and about 26 going all freeway.

Did a little search, couldn't find nothing. After letting it idle for awhile (got stuck snow playing in the snow earlier) and I stepped on the gas, I could hear water rushing through the heater core. My 82 did this, only when I was low on coolant, I checked my coolant and everything, its all fine, oil is good, fluid is good and everything. Anything I should be worried about? My overflow tank has some antifreeze in it. The level hasn't changed in it at all though, this is about the 3rd time I've heard it do that too.

Ok 'nuff for now, thanks for any help you can give!

 

You need the IFS hubs.

Amsoil doesn't have an application for the 3.0 that I know of.

Hopefully some can help you on the synth and the water/coolant issue.

 

Sweet, I can score a set for $10, and its just a simple bolt on and off deal.

For the air or oil? I know for a fact they have an oil filter for it, and judging by the massive the size of our catalog for it, I assumed an air filter too.

Thanks for the little bit more of info I needed

 

I meant no air filter. Good price on the hubs. It is a simple bolt on. You should disassemble and clean/rebuild the hubs before installing them.

 

Of course, looking at your sig. I see you gotta 1" bodylift on yours. I wanna put a 1" on mine just for a better stance. Do I hafta do any mods to it at all. Mines a 5 speed. Also you got any closeups of your bumper/grill guard? You claim yours is smittybuilt, mine came with one and I can't find any identifying marks on it. If its the same then I know what it is, and I wanna see if I could order the Brushguard? Mine has the tube or peices that run out to the side of the front, but I want the peices that will bolt on the inside that have several smaller tubes/wires/peices of metal on.

Thanks again!

 

Hi Chuki, and welcome to YotaTech.
We have a few Tech articles in our Tech section on installing manual hubs.

Good bang for the buck to save your CV boots and put less strain on your system up front.
$10 is a killer deal.

 

Yeah I read them, not real good though since I had no source on hubs, today a buddy who is tossing some IFS stuff out, said he had some hubs, and would sell them to me for $10. Just thought I'd double check em...

Thanks for the welcome, I like the atmosphere, more geared towards toyota, and not just offroading.

 

You cold probably adapt a different filter for 3.slow use if you wanted to.

 

I'll just throw a K&N on it. Or some sort of air intake system.

 

Why would you want manual hubs instead of ADD? I have ADD and I'm glad that I don't have the manual hubs.

Is there something I'm missing here?

 

with 125K I switched to 15W40 Amsoil. So far it starts easily at 5df and oil pressure at low idle, when hot, is still at the quarter line. I'll check the gas mileage on the next 2 tanks.

 

Why turn crap you don't have too.. Spinning CV's all the time will wear them out. Good swap, and you can lock them all winter if you want to. works the same as the ADD plates when locked..

Plus, not having hubs looks, well.. Gay.

 

Ditto on the looks of no hub.

:beaver:

 

I notice more drag when I have mine locked on the road in 2wd, always thought it was really bad to keep them locked.. would it hurt anything or bind anything on the trucks that came from the factory with them to keep them locked on the pavement when turning or going say 55mph? the last time it snowed, the side roads were impossible to drive 2wd on and the main roads were clear. I got pretty tired of hoping in and out...

 

Keeping them locked is just like haveing the ADD flanges on.

 

I'm still glad I have ADD

 

ADD sucks, blows, is bad all around.
This is what prematurely ears out CV boots, and puts strain on your front end components.

The ADD was put on by Toyota for people who don't wanna get their hands dirty doing a simple chore of flipping the dial from unlock to lock.
It's a convenience feature.

I had mine locked in the past week due to the snow & ice we had there, even though I was in 2WD.
I had them locked in incase I needed 4WD if it was slippery.

I could feel the drag having them locked in, and once I unlocked them, I could feel the extra power.
Plus having them locked in took my gas mileage down by 1 MPG.

So a search here and you will find the advantage to getting rid of your ADD hubs.
My '90 truck came stock with them, and when I got the 4Runner that was a mod that was on the to do list.

Like many said, why spin all that stuff up there when you don't need it?
It's harming your gas mileage and components.

 

K&N suck dirt and oil into the engine. That's a serious performance upgrade right there......