95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

fan controler?

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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 10:58 PM
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hiloracerboy84's Avatar
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fan controler?

anyone discover an alternative to the delta current controller for use with the electric fan mod? i know its tried and proven, but wondering if theres any other options that arent strictly on/off cycling.
also, exactly how deep of a fan can we use with our stock shroud? the bosch unit from the volvos is supposedly under 4" but ive found cheap units ranging up to 6" deep that flow 3000+ cfm for under 60 bucks.
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 05:21 AM
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I figure you've seen Andy's thread since you refer to the Delta:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/electric-fan-variable-speed-controller-installed-61008/

So... what's wrong with that controller?


I take it nothing's changed since you asked this question in January?
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/electric-fan-mod-question-76107/
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 07:44 AM
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im just seeing if anyones discovered an alternative to that controller, whether it be cheaper, more durable, easier to use etc.
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by hiloracerboy84
im just seeing if anyones discovered an alternative to that controller, whether it be cheaper, more durable, easier to use etc.
I use this one with my Permacool fan setup:

http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...part=PRM-18905

It has worked flawlessly for a year now.

I also found this one you might consider:

http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...part=DER-16759

I have never used that one. Both these controllers use the probe that simply fits into the fins of the radiator which is easy and works.
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 03:52 PM
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In my last bout with the electrics, I had moved to the PermaCool electronic controller (btw, it's just on/off, not variable speed like the Delta). It was doing fine, great even!, until I had a mechanical failure with a fan that caused one of the fan motors to bind.

That caused exxcessive current draw, and that blew the _controller_ - not the fuse.

My point is that if you're thinking about the PermaCool (or the other one that Dave pointed to), be sure to fuse the controller with the SMALLEST fuse you can get away with. The one that comes with the kit is "obviously" too large.
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 08:56 PM
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thanks for the heads up midiwall. guess the dcc is the only way to go if u want variable...
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 09:31 PM
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Is there a reason why you fellas need to vary the fan speed? I'm trying to figure out why I would ever need more than the normal fan speed.
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by TRDOLMAN
Is there a reason why you fellas need to vary the fan speed? I'm trying to figure out why I would ever need more than the normal fan speed.
It's not more speed you want, it's less. The advantage to a variable speed controller is that it doesn't all come on at once, so you only spin the fan fast enough to flow the minimum aount of air necesary. Which in turn is the lowest draw on your electrical system.

I have purchase This one and should have it installed in the next couple of weeks. I can let you all know how it goes but I expect it to work just fine.
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by AK95Taco
It's not more speed you want, it's less. The advantage to a variable speed controller is that it doesn't all come on at once, so you only spin the fan fast enough to flow the minimum aount of air necesary. Which in turn is the lowest draw on your electrical system.
and... it won't OVERcool your system.

The performance guys amongst us know that a 10* difference in temp will shift/flatten the power curve, basically you'll lose power if you get things too cool. With the standard electric on/off cycling, the swing is pretty large - moreso than with a mechanical fan. The variable speed control smooths out that curve.

It's kinda' splittin' hairs, and none of us will have any dyno charts to back up the "theory", but given that we really do know that runing 10* too hot or too cold will change things, then we can figure that something to smooth out the temperature fluctuations can make sense.
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 02:10 PM
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whats the recommended activation temp for the fan since the 10 degrees can make such a huge difference? most controllers are 160 from the factory but ive heard people changing to up to 190
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 02:31 PM
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You want it to match your T-stat, so for stock T-stat 190 is correct. With the supercharger and URD fuel mods it would be 180.
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