I got tired of the e-locker from 4runner axles. They get stuck or they dont get lock, so I decided to convert them manual.

Anyone knows where can I get a convertion kit?

Thanks

RB

 

http://www.downeyoff-road.com/Chassi...ents/index.htm
click on lockers & limited slips then scroll to the very bottom

 

Hmmmm.... thats good to know

 

That manual locker kit seems like the way to go if retrofitting a factory locker on a Runner/Taco that didn't come with one. Save huge time and complex wiring.

 

First you have to be patient to calibrate the e-locker. There is a pain in the as... follow through indications to do it. Besides, there is always a mess with cables. And last, it seems the guys who have them, always complain about it. Solution 1, dye with them or solution 2, go manual (I like the last one)

Thanks for the tip, Silver Truck

 

I wired a Toy Elocker into a 1st gen runner... we had no harness, no computer, nothing.... It was not all that bad to do once I figured out exactly how the system works, but I ended up using 4 relays and a million wires to do it. I think if I had known this kit was out there I would have gone that route forsure....

 

I remeber a link to a store that allowed you to bypass the computer and wire it up as a normal switch, I don;t remember the link, but I hope that helps.

 

I bringing this back to the top. does any one know if this will work to retrofit a locker into the rear diff on a 96-02 4runner? I am all for keeping it simple and this seems like it could be just the ticket.


I guess I just want to know if any one has used the kit.

 

You want to put a elocker diff into a 96-02 runner that didn't have the elocker from the factory?

If this is true then you need to get an entire rear axle from a trd tacoma or 4runner that had the elocker. This is because the elocker third members use 8" ring gears. The non elocker third members from 96-02 tacomas and 4runners use an 8.4" ring gear.

 

Inchworm has the harness and everything you need to do the conversion.

I ended up using their harness and the wiring was relatively painless.

 

guess I should have done a little more research. sounds like arb with a powertank is the way to go.

 

96-02 4Runners have 8" housings, Non-TRD Taco's have 8.4" housings.
I recently retrofitted an e-locker 3rd member into my stock non-locked axle. Granted that it is a bit of work to notch the housing to clear the e-locker motor, but it was worth the cost difference between getting just the third or the whole axle. I also got most of the wiring harness and it was fairly simple to wire. My RR Diff Lock switch lights up when the locker is engaged also. There is a write-up on how to do the retrofit which you should read before making a decision.

 

I read through the process on sonorar(sp?) steels website. I thought I had just missed something about 8 vs 8.4. oh well its down the road any ways.

 

You can retro fit it into your stock 4Runner axle as per the Sonoran Steel write-up, however, it its much easier and less work to get the whole axle and swap that out (as long as it's from a 4Runner, a Taco would have mounts on the axle for leaf springs). It may cost more, but having done it, it's worth spending the extra money. Now as far as the cable conversion goes, I have had no problems with the electrical portion of the locker, but I have had it for a relatively short time (3 months) and i got the Locker ECU and most of the wiring for free when i bought the 3rd member. If you could get the ECU and wiring for little to no cost, I would go that route. Otherwise, I hate electrical work and would go with the cable kit (and will if my electrical setup would ever fail).

 

Check around at local salvage yards for an elocked rear end. I stumbled across one axle and all (now sitting in the my parnets garage). For a very good price inlcuding most of the wiring. I don't have the ecu as mentioned above for it but I'll be running the inchworm harness w/ the realy to run the factory switch.
Just do some searching around. I've found that if you do some searching you can find the whole axle for cheaper than the third member by itself.

 

I don't have one but at Pirate the Downey cable is notorious for not working properly. I say keep it and work out the wiring issues. You already modified your housing to fit it now make it work right.

 

I own a toy pickup that didn't come with lockers. I swapped to 4runner diff with OEM elockers. After calibrate the 4runner elocker position I haven't got any trouble with'em so far ('bout a year). If you don?t calibrate (that is set the motor at the right position) you won't ever have elocker working right. I don't use the computer neither OEM harness. I made my own and it's quit simple (I have basic basic electric knowledge) . Some guys add a resistor to make the connection smother I don?t. That calibration I'm talking about is in the manual service and it uses a 1,5 volts battery.

 

I just want to know Has anyone gone with the Downey Cable??

The last trip I went on, my E-Locker did not engage, was wondering if anyone else has had this problem??? And if there is any quick tests to find out the problem??

 

I used the Downey Cable on my last rig and I hated it with a passion at first but when I figured out how to use it I loved it no worries about it not locking in because of Air (ARB) or Electric problems. The hardest thing for me was to figure out where to mount the handle for the cable locker.

I had that problem and I hate wiring. And no it doesn't seem to be real easy to find out why it's not working most of the time. Good luck.

 

Thanks for the quick response!!

Is there anywhere I can look to see pics of how this kit installs??